Mizar
Member
Stock Pietta nipples - about 0,9 mm (.036")
Tresso & TOW* nipples - about 0,7 mm (.028")
Slix-Shot nipples - about 0,95 mm (.037")
* TOW - Track of the Wolf
1851 Navy & beginner
- Thread starter 1861
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Stock Pietta nipples - about 0,9 mm (.036")
Tresso & TOW* nipples - about 0,7 mm (.028")
Slix-Shot nipples - about 0,95 mm (.037")
* TOW - Track of the Wolf
You should remove the packing grease prior to firing it.
OP
OP
1861
Member
Thanks! Where did you find that info? But at this point I gave up on the idea of buying that 3-in-1 tool with a nipple pick. Still, it's good to know if I ever need it that it's the right size for stock Pietta nipples, but too wide for Treso.
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whughett
Member
Quote:: 1861 said: ↑
I plan to do that after my first shooting - which should be soon now. Just waiting for the damn paper from the police so that I can go pick up black powder. Every day I expect it to arrive.
Lord thank you for the accident of birth that made me an American.
Normally referred to as mouse farts.
I plan to do that after my first shooting - which should be soon now. Just waiting for the damn paper from the police so that I can go pick up black powder. Every day I expect it to arrive.
Lord thank you for the accident of birth that made me an American.
Normally referred to as mouse farts.
OP
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1861
Member
But I thought they came all oiled-up and ready to use. I mean - it is already all oiled-up. The professionals did it in the factory. Are you sure that I should clean that away first? Why?
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1861
Member
I'm sorry that I wasn't born in Switzerland. The best place and nation in Universe.Lord thank you for the accident of birth that made me an American.
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1861
Member
Thanks for your kind words.
As I say - I don't know how long, should be any day, but I wouldn't bet my life on it.
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1861
Member
I saw that capper almost 2 months ago, seems far superior to all other cappers. But since I've decided yesterday to use cap keepers, capper is not any more something which I'll need. So it's a good thing that I haven't already bought one.
Mizar
Member
I got them from 1858 Remington forum - but I remember that those sizes were mentioned on several different places when I did my quest for aftermarket nipples.
BTW, remember those Czhech Narex turnscrews that you were asking for? Turns out that the company makes some quite good carpenter chisels, so I imagine that those turnscrews will be a quality product also. And they do look like a proper gunsmith screwdriver, not like those utilitarian-looking-awful-plastic-blasphemy-handle Brownells...
Since you are still waiting for your gunpowder license, and since Italian replicas are essentially a kit, a DIY kind of guns, may I suggest some late nigh reading?
I don't remember if those articles were posted in the thread, but they are a must read for the Colt open top Cap & Ball revolving pistols enthusiast:
http://www.theopenrange.net/articles/Tuning_the_Pietta_Part_One.pdf
http://www.theopenrange.net/articles/Tuning_the_Pietta_Part_Two.pdf
Also, do a search on posts from member "45 Dragoon" - lots of useful technical info from a guy that specializes on gunsmithing Cap & Ball revolvers.
BTW, remember those Czhech Narex turnscrews that you were asking for? Turns out that the company makes some quite good carpenter chisels, so I imagine that those turnscrews will be a quality product also. And they do look like a proper gunsmith screwdriver, not like those utilitarian-looking-awful-plastic-blasphemy-handle Brownells...
Since you are still waiting for your gunpowder license, and since Italian replicas are essentially a kit, a DIY kind of guns, may I suggest some late nigh reading?
I don't remember if those articles were posted in the thread, but they are a must read for the Colt open top Cap & Ball revolving pistols enthusiast:
http://www.theopenrange.net/articles/Tuning_the_Pietta_Part_One.pdf
http://www.theopenrange.net/articles/Tuning_the_Pietta_Part_Two.pdf
Also, do a search on posts from member "45 Dragoon" - lots of useful technical info from a guy that specializes on gunsmithing Cap & Ball revolvers.
OP
OP
1861
Member
Thanks Mizar, but I have those 2 pdf files for 2 months now... just yesterday I was reading some parts.
I haven't seen better looking screwdrivers. And I haven't seen such bad reviews ever. Good thing I didn't fall for the looks.
I did order the 3-piece set by GRACE USA, earlier today, because although they may not be good as Brownells, from what I learned they are among the better or best ones, and apparently they will fit perfectly for my Pietta screws. Someone will send me Brownells from Ireland. Today I heard that the Bosch bits which I bought 2 days ago are not of great quality. But together with Grace and Brownells and my old hollow ground screwdriver... I feel I'll be all set.
Czech Narex look awesome (they look in fact like Garrett Wade). If they are not just good-looking, maybe I'll add Narex to the collection too. They do have very positive reviews. But for now I think I'm all set, when Grace and Brownells arrive and when I find a handle for Bosch.
My thoughts exactly... but you know what I first learned about gunsmith screwdrivers? Don't be deceived by their looks. The best looking screwdrivers are the WORST hollow ground ones on the market: Garrett Wade.
I haven't seen better looking screwdrivers. And I haven't seen such bad reviews ever. Good thing I didn't fall for the looks.
I did order the 3-piece set by GRACE USA, earlier today, because although they may not be good as Brownells, from what I learned they are among the better or best ones, and apparently they will fit perfectly for my Pietta screws. Someone will send me Brownells from Ireland. Today I heard that the Bosch bits which I bought 2 days ago are not of great quality. But together with Grace and Brownells and my old hollow ground screwdriver... I feel I'll be all set.
Czech Narex look awesome (they look in fact like Garrett Wade). If they are not just good-looking, maybe I'll add Narex to the collection too. They do have very positive reviews. But for now I think I'm all set, when Grace and Brownells arrive and when I find a handle for Bosch.
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Tommygunn
Member
That is there as a preservative, not lubricant. It may or may not lubricate well, depending on what they use. To lubricate your gun it's best to use an actual lubricating gun oil.
OP
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1861
Member
Oh yeah, that part might be tricky without a handle for Bosch bits, with my Brownells still in Ireland and my Grace USA still in the USA
Never heard of anyone shooting it right out of the box. At the worst it may make cleaning it a bear all depending on what they've used and how it works with BP fouling.
For now I'd at least clean out the barrel and chambers, and if you can pull the wedge and clean/oil the arbor I'd think you'd be better off IF what they used doesn't work well with fouling. It may not be an issue.
For now I'd at least clean out the barrel and chambers, and if you can pull the wedge and clean/oil the arbor I'd think you'd be better off IF what they used doesn't work well with fouling. It may not be an issue.
BCRider
Member
The blue cap keepers look suspiciously like short lengths of the same blue silicon tubing I use for fuel tubing in my model airplanes. So that might be a very cheap option for you if you insist on trying them. The tubing comes in different sizes so take along a cap and something to measure the OD so you're sure that the OD when the cap is pushed into the tubing will not be too large to fit into the nipple recess.
Of course using the cap keepers means you will need to put each one on by hand. No using a capper. Plus you'd need to pick them out after shooting. Since the caps will petal outwards regardless when fired with a live charge I wonder about how easy that will be. The cap keepers just seems a little like a solution to a problem that simply isn't there. Or at the very least it will solve some things while causing other issues.
I've never needed anything like cap keepers. And I've never modified any of my C&B guns to install a rake or even fill in the notch. Instead I adopted a method that does the same thing as the old original "fix" to avoid cap shards in the gun. Back then they used to point the guns up at the sky to cock them so the shards would fall clear of the gun during cocking. I can't really do that in my cowboy action shooting because I'd be pointed over the berms and also it would cost me far too much time. But what I do instead is roll my hand strongly to the right as I cock the gun so the shards tend to fall clear. Since adopting this method I can't recall the last time I got a shard into the gun and jammed the works. When I have gotten shards into the gun it was because I forgot to roll my hand over or I didn't roll it far enough.
Of course using the cap keepers means you will need to put each one on by hand. No using a capper. Plus you'd need to pick them out after shooting. Since the caps will petal outwards regardless when fired with a live charge I wonder about how easy that will be. The cap keepers just seems a little like a solution to a problem that simply isn't there. Or at the very least it will solve some things while causing other issues.
I've never needed anything like cap keepers. And I've never modified any of my C&B guns to install a rake or even fill in the notch. Instead I adopted a method that does the same thing as the old original "fix" to avoid cap shards in the gun. Back then they used to point the guns up at the sky to cock them so the shards would fall clear of the gun during cocking. I can't really do that in my cowboy action shooting because I'd be pointed over the berms and also it would cost me far too much time. But what I do instead is roll my hand strongly to the right as I cock the gun so the shards tend to fall clear. Since adopting this method I can't recall the last time I got a shard into the gun and jammed the works. When I have gotten shards into the gun it was because I forgot to roll my hand over or I didn't roll it far enough.
OP
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1861
Member
Ok rodwha, I'll try to do that before I fire it. Right now I just started producing cap keepers. Can't try firing caps with keepers on them tonight because it's too late, but will try tomorrow morning.
Can't try firing caps with keepers on them tonight because it's too late, but will try tomorrow morning.
BCRider
Member
If you're using clear vinyl tubing for these home made keepers I think you'll find that the vinyl softens and might even melt from the power of a proper charge. Likely they'll be fine for just "popping a cap". The blue silicon tube I mentioned is far more heat resistant. Almost heat proof in fact. So don't commit to anything fully until you get to actually shoot with full proper charges.
OP
OP
1861
Member
Yes, it is clear vinyl. I'm not going to make hundreds now, I'll make a dozen and see the result. I'll go tomorrow to find a silicone one. Thanks for the valuable info!
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Mn Fats
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I respectfully disagree
BullSlinger
Member
I have never fully taken apart any on my new revolvers to clean out the factory grease. I get the shipping oils cleaned off the barrel and cylinder, clean off the frame and away I go. Guns are still running fine years later.
I tried making the tubing cap retainers at one point in time. I found it to be tedious and they still fell off only now with plastic to deal with. You may find otherwise.
I tried making the tubing cap retainers at one point in time. I found it to be tedious and they still fell off only now with plastic to deal with. You may find otherwise.
OP
OP
1861
Member
All right! I want to be like BullSlinger, to never have to fully take apart a revolver. Time will tell.
I just fired a cap with keeper on! It was quite harder to put a cap on a nipple with keeper already on the cap. When fired, there was no sparks. (Or much much less sparks than from two caps I fired last week.) The cap stayed at its place the same as it was before firing it. Tight and retaining its form. The "keeper" was not damaged, but from a transparent one it became a dirty one, almost black. The top of the cap got opened like a can when I fired it. So I took a tweezers and grabed with them that opened top part, and that way it was pretty easy to pull it out. They came off the nipple together, cap and "keeper". While holding that keeper between fingers, it was easy to push the spent cap out of it with a small screwdriver. The cap body stayed mainly the same as it was. I can use that keeper again and again. If vinyl ones will melt when I load a black powder, I'll use silicone ones which won't melt. I agree that the whole process with keepers takes longer and complicates things. I'll use them for now, will see for the future.
I've just realized - if cap stays put when hammer strikes it - then NO NEED FOR SAFETY GLASSES, right?
I just fired a cap with keeper on! It was quite harder to put a cap on a nipple with keeper already on the cap. When fired, there was no sparks. (Or much much less sparks than from two caps I fired last week.) The cap stayed at its place the same as it was before firing it. Tight and retaining its form. The "keeper" was not damaged, but from a transparent one it became a dirty one, almost black. The top of the cap got opened like a can when I fired it. So I took a tweezers and grabed with them that opened top part, and that way it was pretty easy to pull it out. They came off the nipple together, cap and "keeper". While holding that keeper between fingers, it was easy to push the spent cap out of it with a small screwdriver. The cap body stayed mainly the same as it was. I can use that keeper again and again. If vinyl ones will melt when I load a black powder, I'll use silicone ones which won't melt. I agree that the whole process with keepers takes longer and complicates things. I'll use them for now, will see for the future.
I've just realized - if cap stays put when hammer strikes it - then NO NEED FOR SAFETY GLASSES, right?
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J-Bar
Member
I've just realized - if cap stays put when hammer strikes it - then NO NEED FOR SAFETY GLASSES, right?
Please tell me you are joking.
Please.
Panzerschwein
member
All right! I want to be like BullSlinger, to never have to fully take apart a revolver. Time will tell.
I just fired a cap with keeper on! It was quite harder to put a cap on a nipple with keeper already on the cap. When fired, there was no sparks. (Or much much less sparks than from two caps I fired last week.) The cap stayed at its place the same as it was before firing it. Tight and retaining its form. The "keeper" was not damaged, but from a transparent one it became a dirty one, almost black. The top of the cap got opened like a can when I fired it. So I took a tweezers and grabed with them that opened top part, and that way it was pretty easy to pull it out. They came off the nipple together, cap and "keeper". While holding that keeper between fingers, it was easy to push the spent cap out of it with a small screwdriver. The cap body stayed mainly the same as it was. I can use that keeper again and again. If vinyl ones will melt when I load a black powder, I'll use silicone ones which won't melt. I agree that the whole process with keepers takes longer and complicates things. I'll use them for now, will see for the future.
I've just realized - if cap stays put when hammer strikes it - then NO NEED FOR SAFETY GLASSES, right?
You won't be thinking that when a hot cap fragment pierces your retina.
it has happened.
Seriously, eye protection is mandatory, especially with black powder guns like the cap n' balls.
Tommygunn
Member
"If a cap stays put when the hammer strikes strikes it, then there is no need for safety glasses, right?"
Yeah, and if the Titanic hadn't struck the iceberg, it wouldn't have needed lifeboats, which it was already short on.
WEAR SAFETY GLASSES!
Yeah, and if the Titanic hadn't struck the iceberg, it wouldn't have needed lifeboats, which it was already short on.
WEAR SAFETY GLASSES!
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