Loose extractor rod

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AZAndy

AZAndy

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I just got back from trying out an old S&W Model 10, and had to tighten the extractor rod three times during a mere 50 rounds. As the cylinder turns (hey, great name for a TV show), the rod unscrews. Whaddaya think? Get the oil off and do a little Loctite? Or just try to tighten the heck out of it?
 
I usually just keep myself mindful of it and tightening it back as needed, but a little loctite will solve the problem. It doesn't have to be high strength or high temp stuff, just something to discourage it from unspooling.
 
Howdy

Smith and Wesson changed the thread on the extractor rod on their revolvers from a right hand thread to a left hand thread because of this problem. It took a while for the change to make it's way through all their products, but in 1961 the Model 10 experienced this change. This was with the Model 10-2 with the standard barrel and the Model 10-3 with the heavy barrel. It is easy for an unscrewed extractor rod to lock up the gun, making it difficult to open the cylinder. Sometimes it only takes a 1/2 of a revolution or so. Before you try loctite, try some nail polish on the threads. Just enough to keep the rod from backing out. If the rod backs out enough to prevent opening the cylinder, you can usually turn the rod just a bit with your fingers to open the gun.
 
Driftwood Johnson said:
Howdy

Smith and Wesson changed the thread on the extractor rod on their revolvers from a right hand thread to a left hand thread because of this problem. It took a while for the change to make it's way through all their products, but in 1961 the Model 10 experienced this change. This was with the Model 10-2 with the standard barrel and the Model 10-3 with the heavy barrel. It is easy for an unscrewed extractor rod to lock up the gun, making it difficult to open the cylinder. Sometimes it only takes a 1/2 of a revolution or so. Before you try loctite, try some nail polish on the threads. Just enough to keep the rod from backing out. If the rod backs out enough to prevent opening the cylinder, you can usually turn the rod just a bit with your fingers to open the gun.
Click to expand...
I wouldn’t have thought of nail polish; thanks. I have some handy for sight painting, so I’ll give that a try!
 
If you want to avoid the nail polish route, remove the cylinder, put 3-4 empty cartridge cases in the chambers. Then use a brass or copper pad (old pre-zinc pennies will do) and claimp the knurled end of the rod in a vise, tightly. Then turn the cylinder to tighten the ejector rod. Really crank down; the mistake most folks make is to not use enough force.

Jim
 
Driftwood, the left hand thread really didn't solve the problem as I gave seen it in S&Ws made up to the 90s.

I have always fixed it with some blue Loc-tite. How many times do you completely disassemble the cylinder?
 
My experience with K frames is that loose elector rod issues don't go away with tightening. I've used a medium level loctite with success (the blue bottle, as Twiki357 said.) It's worked on a couple of model 10's and a Highway Patrolman (which hasn't come loose again with even hot Buffalo Bore loads.) I just bought some of that guntite stuff, but haven't used it yet.
 
Jim K said:
Really crank down
Click to expand...

Eh...I wouldn't - those threads are fairly fine and not very robust, so you risk stripping them if you "really crank down". I've followed the "wee bit of blue loctite and snugly hand tighten" technique without issue.
 
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