Endshake?
- Thread starter jski
- Start date
- Status
Col. Harrumph
Member
Yup, what mnrivat said. If the gap is too small you may get a buildup of crud (and lead, if shooting plain lead) on the face of the forcing cone which will eventually impede the cylinder's rotation. If too large you'll experience excessive gas escaping through the gap. Excessive endshake can be corrected with shims, or on some revolvers (S&W for ex.) by moving metal to increase the length of the yoke shaft (the smaller diameter of part 31 on this diagram: https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/smith-wesson/revolvers-sw/10-1)
BBBBill
Member
Better described as the distance that it moves fore and aft in the frame window.
Nope. All revolvers.
There should be a tiny amount. I set mine at .001" minimum - .002" maximum. Zero will lead to cylinder bind from heating and expansion if you shoot enough rounds fast enough. Even one cylinder full can do it. There are other things that can cause the cylinder to bind up and zero endshake can make it much more likely to happen, especially if the cylinder face is a little high in one or more spots. Then the face of the cylinder can bind against the rear face of the barrel and cock to one side. With zero endshake there is no wiggle room to accommodate the minor irregularities. Lots of little points of fit and/or interference add up. Of course a pro smith will include facing the cylinder to remove high spots as well as fitting the ratchet pads, hand/pawl, cylinder stop, end shake, headspace, etc on a full build.
Some confusion here with "end shake", barrel/cylinder gap, and cylinder clearance at either or both ends. Not the same things, though often related.
The .30 carbine revolvers are especially prone to problems because the recoil is really more than any current revolver was designed for.
Jim.
The .30 carbine revolvers are especially prone to problems because the recoil is really more than any current revolver was designed for.
Jim.
Could you be more precise here, more descriptive?
There is a barely noticeable amount of slop/slip with the cylinder but it is very slight.
BBBBill
Member
A gun is a piece of precision equipment and fit/dimensions should be quantified by actual measurements. Simple enough to measure with feeler gauges, micrometers, and quality dial calipers. I can't quantify "barely noticeable" in any meaningful way.
Fair enough. Could you suggest a good gap gauge for this (and other) purpose(s)?
Most are of the ilk: "0.02 to 1mm Thickness Gap Metric Filler Gauge". What is a good range of (thickness) values for gunsmithing?
Update: I've read that the top of the line is:
Starrett 66 Thickness Gage Set With Straight Leaves, 0.0015-0.025" Thickness, 3-1/32" Length, 26 Leaves ? Ain't cheap.
Last edited:
BBBBill
Member
You don't need Starrett brand. A basic set of automotive feeler gauges from Auto Zone, etc will do just fine. The standard range starts at .0015" thick up through about .025". You can stack them to come up with different values to for those not included in the set. I have several standard sized sets (1/2" wide blades) as well as a mini set with narrow (1/4" wide blades) for getting into restricted spaces. Should be able to pick up a set for less than $8.00. It is nice to have two sets handy.
Went ahead and ordered the Starrett set. Occasionally I feel the urge to buy American and then I'm compelled to scratch that itch. It's good to know we still make the highest quality machined tools. I'll hand it down to posterity.
As you can tell from my avatar, I'm a big fan of Shane where one of the major characters is named Joe Starrett. That cinched it.
As you can tell from my avatar, I'm a big fan of Shane where one of the major characters is named Joe Starrett. That cinched it.
Last edited:
BBBBill
Member
If you are serious about understanding you Ruger, whether you intend to actually do the work on it or not, then you need to add this book to your gun library - The Ruger Single Action Revolvers: A Shop Manual, Vols. 1&2 http://www.gunbooks.com/ruger_sa.html
- Status
