MosinT53Hunter
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- Joined
- Dec 15, 2016
- Messages
- 1,042
They definitely didn't waste any polishing effort in spots that were hidden beneath the wood, but mine isn't quite that rough. Still, that just appears to be artifact left over from welding on the gas block- I wouldn't worry too much about it.Hello all, I finally got my Universal, gen 1, out of lay-a-way prison. I have a question though for those the have one of these. When you take the hand guard off, is it rough underneath? I just wondered if this is common to this rifle. Thank you in advance.
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They definitely didn't waste any polishing effort in spots that were hidden beneath the wood, but mine isn't quite that rough. Still, that just appears to be artifact left over from welding on the gas block- I wouldn't worry too much about it.
What stood out to me is your flat bolt! That is obviously an early GI part and very rare on Universals! Also, your wood appears rather matte compared to mine which is a high gloss laquer finish- pretty, but not too durable.
I wonder if someone stripped it down to try to give it a more GI appearance.
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Also, most Universals had bayonet lugs- it was quicker and cheaper to just use surplus Type 3 upper bands than cut them down into Type 2s.
Does it look like someone Dremeled out the trigger housing opening in the wood? Need pics of the top of the stock, too, in the action area.
They definitely didn't waste any polishing effort in spots that were hidden beneath the wood, but mine isn't quite that rough. Still, that just appears to be artifact left over from welding on the gas block- I wouldn't worry too much about it.
What stood out to me is your flat bolt! That is obviously an early GI part and very rare on Universals! Also, your wood appears rather matte compared to mine which is a high gloss laquer finish- pretty, but not too durable.
I wonder if someone stripped it down to try to give it a more GI appearance.
View attachment 796161
Also, most Universals had bayonet lugs- it was quicker and cheaper to just use surplus Type 3 upper bands than cut them down into Type 2s.
Does it look like someone Dremeled out the trigger housing opening in the wood? Need pics of the top of the stock, too, in the action area.
Ya, looks like somebody dabbed on some cold blue at one point and may have stripped the wood. The upper band is a later production Universal stamped piece. The long cutout on the inner side of the wood was for the Universal scope mount- I'll wager there are some threaded hole in the LH side of the receiver for the mount as well.View attachment 796164 View attachment 796165 View attachment 796166 View attachment 796168
Well, here's what I could take tonight. I will do more with my proper camera tomorrow when I can get to it next. Seems to be factory on the stock, and on the bayonet lugs, I can't tell if they were modified at one time or not. The ad for the rifle said it had been reblued, so I don't know if they did more to it too. Doesn't seem recent from my eyes.
What's your serial number?
My recently acquired number 27XXX has a flat bolt, bayonet lug and the polished stock.
Very nice.3xxx
Ya, looks like somebody dabbed on some cold blue at one point and may have stripped the wood. The upper band is a later production Universal stamped piece. The long cutout on the inner side of the wood was for the Universal scope mount- I'll wager there are some threaded hole in the LH side of the receiver for the mount as well.
As you know, the trigger housing is aluminum and not standard shaped (on later G1s like yours). I swapped my trigger housing for a GI steel part, all of the small bits dropped right in and only minor filing was needed to fit the housing to the receiver. As mine is a very early G1, the stock inletting matches the GI trigger group, but while I believe a GI housing would work on your gun, there would be rather unsightly gaps on either side of the trigger guard in the wood unless you also went with a GI stock.
While you have it apart, I would check the gas piston nut for looseness/backing out. These are staked at the factory- make sure the staking marks are still lined up. Also, this is a good time to gift the old girl with a fresh recoil spring.
It looks like your mag catch is the earlier, 2-hook type. If you plan on running 30-round mags, you will probably want to upgrade that to a 3-hook. The flip safety is interchangeable with the older pushbutton type which I think looks cleaner.
When reassembling, check the fit of the recoil plate and look for cracks in the stock around the plate. Over-tightening of the plate screw it the best way to ruin a Carbine stock. Finally, as I'm sure you know, when properly fitted, the barrel should float just above the stock wood when the action is set into the recoil plate before the upper handguard is installed and tightened down- this is critical for achieving good accuracy from a carbine.
Nice gun, and great score!
Only problem with the pouch, and the reason I don't have one on any of my carbines, is that if you have a nice stock, they rub and scratch it beneath the pouch....... Also, you may have to remove the action to put it on, which is a pain if you already have it fitted nice and tight.Thanks for all the info and encouragement. I plan on making as "GI" as I can, just a matter of time and money. Least I have the basics to start with, and go from there. I will give it a through going over before I shoot it.
I think I will stick with the original 15 rounders, I like them, and will be getting the pouch to hold more on the stock as time goes by.
Stock wise, I am going to change it out, nothing like a good old walnut stock with nicks and gouges from time. The trigger pack is something I will be learning from, and hope to put on the push button safety, never liked the lever flipping up and down, reminds me of the last minute ones they put on the imported TT33 pistols when they first came on the market.
Anyways, I thank each and every one that has put their input into my new find, and I will be posting better pictures of it when I can. Its going to be fun.
Depends on the stock pattern you have. The "potbelly" and M2 patterns are too porky to slide it over with the action in place.I use a 1943 GI mag pouch on my Inland. I can get it on and off the stock without disassembling the Carbine. As far as scratching, that is caused by the snap on the off side of the pouch. I stuck a piece of stick on Velcro inside the pouch to cover the snap...others use tape.
Get some GI magazines. Most jamming problems with Carbines are because of crap aftermarket magazines.
Sounds to me like the damaged housing is causing misalignment of the magazine to chamber, which is made worse by the increased spring pressure of a fully loaded mag. That housing probably took a fairly good hit at some point to break off a corner- this could have thrown its dimensions all off.
Also, the mag catch on mine was pretty sloppy in its sliding track when I got it. That was what prompted me to seek out a GI housing in the first place. I say try a fresh mag- the new production Korean ones are supposed to be good- and if it still has issues, replace the trigger housing before going any further. Good luck!
Right on, bro.Thank you. I am going to see about getting the fully assembled trigger pack from Numrich, along with a surplus stock in the very near future. I had a hunch that that might be the case. Better to know now then later. I will post updates as I do my up grades.
Looks like Numrich has stripped housings in stock for $120, but you might try this guy first:
https://www.amherst-depot.com/gunparts.carbine.htm
He doesn't list a stripped one, but I betcha if you call he could hook you up way cheaper!