toivo
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That makes sense. Thanks for a very clear and detailed response.
Soaking the bore - how to plug it?
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rpenmanparker
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Amazon has black rubber lab stoppers. Ideally just order the size you need for your bore, but it may be necessary to order an assortment. Cured rubber is very resistant to chemicals. And lab stoppers are deigned to be used with aggressive chemicals. As a chemist with 50 years experience, that is what I would do. You could test the stopper first overnight in the cleaner you use. If it swells, you don’t want to use it.
cdb1
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Much much better.
Roamin_Wade
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I always keep the tapered tip that comes with a tube of RTV or the like for just such reasons.
243winxb
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"Never cork up the bore"
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J-Bar
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Liberally coat the outside of an empty .22 case with whatever grease you have on hand and insert it into the chamber. Fill the bore with whatever. The fluid probably will not be heavy enough to push the greased case out of the chamber, but you can close the action if it worries you. Stand it vertically so that if any leakage occurs it will not flow into the stock, or cause a carpet stain.
I clean my 1873 lever action .357 this way, sloshing a half barrel full of solvent around in there to get rid of blackpowder fouling. Never experienced leakage into the action, hope it works for you.
I clean my 1873 lever action .357 this way, sloshing a half barrel full of solvent around in there to get rid of blackpowder fouling. Never experienced leakage into the action, hope it works for you.
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That's the worst advice I've read in a while. That's more likely to ruin a rimfire bore than anything else. The steels used in most rimfire barrels are very soft.
Old Stumpy
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Meaning, don't seal the bore at both ends.
The concentrations of anything that might be considered even mildly corrosive are very low in Hoppes #9.
I have stood rifles up in a corner filled with Hoppes #9 with the chamber "corked" for a week or more.
I also sealed off the nipple of a .50 caliber muzzleloader and left it filled with Hoppes #9 for a week once, since it had been in use for 20 years.
Never experienced any corrosion or damage from the process.
+1. That is what I did.
rpenmanparker
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That photo is not of a current label. The formula is grossly different now than when that label was being used. I wouldn't rely on the advice given there.
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243winxb
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Label is from what i am current using. Bought a case of it, years ago. Maybe its now collectible? 
The composition is current for Hoppes.
The composition is current for Hoppes.
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Skylerbone
Member
Who the heck still uses Hoppe’s?!? For light to moderate lead I use Montana Extreme Cowboy Blend with a stiff nylon brush, any worse and it gets a wet patch of CLP followed by the Chore Boy.
Rifle cleaning should not be a 24 hour sport. If your solvent takes hours you’re using the wrong stuff.
Rifle cleaning should not be a 24 hour sport. If your solvent takes hours you’re using the wrong stuff.
Old Stumpy
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redneck2
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This. ^
Personally, I’d just use foaming bore cleaner. Tilt the muzzle end downward slightly. You won’t believe the crap that comes out.
If anybody scrubbed the bore of my rifles with a drill powered scrub brush, they’d get the butt stock across their face. Might as well just run a grinding wheel down it.
Bore Tech “Eliminator” - I am an old guy that has used all of the old stuff - Bore Tech will clean you barrel with just the normal “wet patch thru the bore” process in very short time. I do not understand why gun owners still use the old stuff - way too much work, mess and smell. Bore Tech is simply impressive.
243winxb
Member
Those are maximum weights as a percentage.
GBExpat
Member
<hand raised>
Jim Watson
Member
I have left barrels wet with various solvents for several days, no scrubbing, just wipe out the old and apply fresh. I have one of those Sinclair chamber plugs for .22-250 but seldom use it.
My Difficult Pistol Barrel treatment is a tall skinny olive jar full of "benchrest blend" (Shooter's Choice + Kroil.) Three days in that makes a 1911 barrel easy to clean, whether lead or copper fouled. Doesn't do much for a case of plastic fouling from poor "poly moly" coating, though.
My Difficult Pistol Barrel treatment is a tall skinny olive jar full of "benchrest blend" (Shooter's Choice + Kroil.) Three days in that makes a 1911 barrel easy to clean, whether lead or copper fouled. Doesn't do much for a case of plastic fouling from poor "poly moly" coating, though.
shooter1niner
Member
I like the aroma of the old "Hoppes #9". I use it after I shave, drives them old buffalo girls crazy...
Jim Watson
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I don't, I open the olive jar only in desperation.
My regular solvents are M-pro 7 and Wipe Out foam.
I bought some PB Blaster but it is so rank I only use it in the driveway.
My regular solvents are M-pro 7 and Wipe Out foam.
I bought some PB Blaster but it is so rank I only use it in the driveway.
redneck2
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Wipe out Foam is exceptional. I fail to understanding why anyone would still use Hoppes
rpenmanparker
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It used to be called nitro solvent because it contained nitrobenzene. That had to be removed due to carcinogenicity. They don’t have “Nitro” on the label anymore. That is how you can tell your stuff is not current. If I were you I would dispose of what you have left at a hazardous waste facility and buy some new stuff.Label is from what i am current using. Bought a case of it, years ago. Maybe its now collectible?
The composition is current for Hoppes.
The MSDS may be current but it does not correspond to what you are using. The main way to know that is there are not 9 ingredients. Ya’ know, Hoope’s #9!
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