I’m not a diver so I don’t like to tell them what is correct or best (and these watches are definitely marketed as macho diving tools), but from the watchmaker perspective, that is what I have told clients many times. In the days of the Italian WWII divers or Jacques Cousteau, a dive watch was an essential piece of kit. Nowadays, for serious use, it’s an anachronism, kind of like flying a WW1 biplane and insisting on period-correct spark plugs. It may get the job done for a casual dive around a reef, but a modern computer has a lot more features and safety.
Incidentally, for everyone reading this, the water resistance rating on a watch is a technical rating and doesn’t translate intuitively to real life. (I don’t know if other dive equipment is the same way) but this occasionally causes confusion for “desk divers,” especially with low-water resistance dress watches. Most guys read “30 meters water resistance” and assume that it literally means they can dive to 30 meters depth and their watch will be fine. In reality it means that, in theory, on the day the watch left the factory or service center, the watch could be submerged statically to 30 meters and not leak. The problem is, actual swimming (the watch moving through water) can generate pressures of that amount or greater even without the watch actually being submerged. So a true divers watch is generally rated at 150 or nowadays 300 meters (which is of course far deeper than almost any diver could go, at least without extremely specialized equipment) and a watch rated to “100 meters” (your average Rolex, for instance) generally is just considered safe for a surface swim. A 30 meters type watch is generally considered safe for washing your hands or getting caught in the rain.