Square to round butt

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magyars4

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Anyone ever modify a S&W square butt to round?
I imagine it can't be that difficult....probably takes more courage than ability...

Any input?
 
I have a well used S&W 586 that looks to have been converted to RB sometime in its past. I haven't found any confirmation that 586-1's were ever offered in RB from the factory, so I assume its been converted. The grooves machined into the backstrap just kind of fade away somewhat irregularly where the backstrap starts curving in, and the finish isn't the same in the area I assume was ground away...cold blue from the look of it.
It seems to have worked just fine though, there was obviously enough meat in the grip frame to accommodate a conversion if that indeed is what was done, and fits RB grips perfectly.
The grips are Hogue RB finger grooved grips that didn't fit me and were subsequently sanded down into something that fit my hands better.

586-24inchnewgripsandejectorrod.jpg

586stogether.jpg
 
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I had a gunsmith do one of mine - he described the process, a hardened fixture and a file, fairly easy work for skilled hands. I think it cost me $60.

My gun was stainless, blued guns will need to be refinished too.
 
I believe it was very common during the “revolver era”. Check with a gunsmith that has been in business since then.
 
One consideration is the serial number on
the bottom of the square butt. Best not to
cut into it; usually plenty of room to avoid that,
however.
 
Here is a photo of my S&W Model 28-2 and a Model 625-6, 45 ACP Mountain Gun. The Model 28-2 was converted from square butt to round by putting a pair of K frame round butt magnas on it and cutting away everything that wasn’t covered by the wood. There are several other modifications to that revolver.

The Mountain Gun is wearing a pair of round to square conversion stocks.

Both have a purpose but I prefer the square butt.

B92C0F48-77F9-4747-AB27-82511B54B9C0.jpeg


Kevin
 
I did the conversion on my S&W Model 66. Cut out a small section of the bottom plate of the butt and formed the back strap to achieve proper profile. Had a friend weld it up and I dressed it down. Not all that difficult. Just remember the old saying of measure twice , cut once. 001.jpg
 
And a shortening of the barrel to 3 inches . This gun was retrieved from the waters of the big hurricane in Louisiana. It was a mess. After rework it was a great functioning and accurate revolver. I sold it along with all but one gun I had at the time I divorced my wife. I had two girls to raise, had just been through a heart attack and a major surgery. I sold my reloading and bullet casting equipment along with all my firearms with the exception of a 19" barrel Mossberg 20 gauge 500. While not a masterpiece this was a great shooter I wish I could have kept. It had a 4" barrel, and of course the front sight is non original as well.
 
One may wish to test-fire a round-butt revolver, in the relevant frame size, before undertaking such a project. It took me a while to sort-out exactly why I preferred squared-off grip frames and grips, across the board, but it finally became apparent that muzzle-flip was worse, with rounded-butt grips.

I was always more accurate, with squared K-Frames, and squared L-Frames, than rounded K-Frames. I noticed this in the Eighties, from my earliest days of hand-gunning.

I also noticed that I preferred the original squared-profile Ruger GP100 factory grip, Which I had been using since the very early Nineties, than the factory rounded-profile grip, which I did not try until 2002 or 2003. Not only was I more accurate with the squared grip, but I could not shoot the full-velocity Magnum loads comfortably with the rounded grip. I switched to the square-profile grip, on my fixed-sight GP100, which had been factory-equipped with the rounded grip.

Edited to add: To be clear, I was not writing about the Hogue grips, which became common on GP100 revolvers, for a while.
 
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