If you can find one a older 90s model Rossi 971. Built like a tank. And more accurate then any pistol ive shot. Could just be me idk. Last one I saw was $300.00 on Armslist. A lotta gun for the money. Not to thrilled with the hammer mounted firing pin.
Revolvers .357 Magnum
- Thread starter film495
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bangswitch
Member
It comes down to what you want to use it for, and what you're willing to pay, and put up with.
Full size, long barrel is the best shooter; enough mass to absorb recoil, longer sight radius, and less muzzle rise. An N-frame S&W is a great platform for .357.
Next would be a slightly smaller K frame, mid length barrel. A bit more shock to the shooting hand, still has a nice sight radius for accurate aiming, a little more muzzle jump, but you're approaching something concealable for carry.
Then there's the round butt, short barrel medium frame (K). A handful when shooting full power loads, but nicely concealable. I actually like the factory magna stocks on this size, both for the firm grip you can get and for the concealable size.
Rock185
Member
film495, FWIW, If you're getting pounded, and don't like the muzzle flip of your Model 10 .38, I wonder if you would enjoy a little concealed carry type .357 ? Even the little 9MM revolvers with some of the more energetic carry type ammunition might not be that enjoyable for you to shoot.....
I like the .357s, but admit I like the cartridge in K-Frame and larger revolvers.
I like the .357s, but admit I like the cartridge in K-Frame and larger revolvers.
Cump
Member
I would like to have that line-up.
AustinTX
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Budget and intended use? Do you want new-production only, with easily accessible customer service, or would you look at older guns that, to varying degrees, could be difficult to service, should the need arise? There's a vast range of options.
The S&W Model 686 (and 586) and Ruger GP100 are the standard suggestions for new sub-$1,000 .357 Mag. revolvers. Neither do much for me, but they are very solid guns.
S&W's flagship revolver has long been the N-frame Model 27 (and pre-Model 27 and Registered Magnum). If you're okay with the unfortunate internal lock (present on almost all S&W revolvers since 2000), the absence of pinned barrels and recessed cylinder bores (both eliminated ca. 1982), MIM parts (present on all S&Ws since 1997-98), two-piece barrels (not sure of first year), and bluing that doesn't compare with the S&W wheelguns of yesteryear, then you can buy a new Model 27 "Classic" (27-9) for not much more than a 686. The Model 27-2 is the last version to have none of the aforementioned changes that most S&W enthusiasts dislike at least to some extent. In general, the further back you go, the more expensive the gun will be, all else being equal (though there are exceptions, with the rare Model 27-1 being more valuable than an equivalent 27 "no dash," for example). A pristine pre-Model 27 can run several thousand dollars these days, depending upon barrel length, and a high-condition Registered Magnum will easily run into five figures in even the most common barrel lengths. The Model 28, made from 1954 to 1986, is the same as a Model 27 from the same production year but with a few features and options omitted to keep production costs lower (no checkered top strap and barrel rib, matte blue finish rather than high-polish "Bright Blue" finish, no nickel finish option, fewer barrel length options).
If you want the finest DA .357 Magnum revolvers ever made, then you're looking at Ratzeburg-made Korth Sports and Combats and Mulhouse-made Manurhin MR73s, with a well-preserved example of any of them coming in at several times the cost of a new S&W or Ruger. If you want the finest DA revolver currently made, you're looking at the aesthetically challenged Lollar-made Korths (imported by Nighthawk). (Not really counting Janz here, since production is so low.)
If you want the finest SA .357 Mag. revolver ever made, look at Freedom Arms. The USFA revolvers made after they stopped using Uberti parts are also very, very nice (and the ones with Uberti parts are still nice). (On the much cheaper end, people love their SA Rugers as well, but I have little experience with them.)
There's also the K-frame S&W Model 19 and 66 (and others), but these are smaller and lighter revolvers, just like your Model 10. Many of them will not hold up very well to a steady diet of full-power .357 Mag. ammo. In recent-production guns, S&W eliminated the flat gas-ring clearance cut on the bottom of the barrel at the forcing cone, thus strengthening the barrels and increasing longevity. You'll have to determine whether they are too light to make pleasant shooters.
Plenty of Colts you could look at as well. The old Pythons are as iconic as .357 Mag. revolvers come. They aren't all of the same quality, though. Colt's quality had really declined by the late 1970s, and it bottomed out in the second half of the 1980s. Some of the 1990s guns I've seen (and owned) aren't much better. I don't have any experience with the new Python. It has some significant technical improvements over the old version, but I've read more than a few complaints of serious quality control issues over the last year. The only other Colt .357 Mag. revolvers I like at all are the original Trooper (1953-69) and the Colt 3-5-7 (1953-61), which was just a more refined Trooper (or, in many respects, a less refined Python). (Well, I also love the Shooting Master, but only 500 were made in .357 Mag., and they aren't cheap.) Other more common old Colts in .357 Mag. are the Trooper Mark III, the Trooper Mark V, and the King Cobra. The new King Cobra is a small-frame revolver of a different design.
Dan Wesson revolvers have a smaller but ardent following. I gather that quality has varied at different times, with guns made in the late 1980s and 1990s being viewed less favorably than the earlier guns. Current-production DWs seem to draw very positive reviews overall.
There are other cheaper options from Taurus, Rossi, Charter Arms, and RIA/Armscor, but the 686/586 and GP100 would be my personal floor in a search for a quality .357 Mag. wheelgun.
Plenty of other brands and guns that I haven't listed as well.
The S&W Model 686 (and 586) and Ruger GP100 are the standard suggestions for new sub-$1,000 .357 Mag. revolvers. Neither do much for me, but they are very solid guns.
S&W's flagship revolver has long been the N-frame Model 27 (and pre-Model 27 and Registered Magnum). If you're okay with the unfortunate internal lock (present on almost all S&W revolvers since 2000), the absence of pinned barrels and recessed cylinder bores (both eliminated ca. 1982), MIM parts (present on all S&Ws since 1997-98), two-piece barrels (not sure of first year), and bluing that doesn't compare with the S&W wheelguns of yesteryear, then you can buy a new Model 27 "Classic" (27-9) for not much more than a 686. The Model 27-2 is the last version to have none of the aforementioned changes that most S&W enthusiasts dislike at least to some extent. In general, the further back you go, the more expensive the gun will be, all else being equal (though there are exceptions, with the rare Model 27-1 being more valuable than an equivalent 27 "no dash," for example). A pristine pre-Model 27 can run several thousand dollars these days, depending upon barrel length, and a high-condition Registered Magnum will easily run into five figures in even the most common barrel lengths. The Model 28, made from 1954 to 1986, is the same as a Model 27 from the same production year but with a few features and options omitted to keep production costs lower (no checkered top strap and barrel rib, matte blue finish rather than high-polish "Bright Blue" finish, no nickel finish option, fewer barrel length options).
If you want the finest DA .357 Magnum revolvers ever made, then you're looking at Ratzeburg-made Korth Sports and Combats and Mulhouse-made Manurhin MR73s, with a well-preserved example of any of them coming in at several times the cost of a new S&W or Ruger. If you want the finest DA revolver currently made, you're looking at the aesthetically challenged Lollar-made Korths (imported by Nighthawk). (Not really counting Janz here, since production is so low.)
If you want the finest SA .357 Mag. revolver ever made, look at Freedom Arms. The USFA revolvers made after they stopped using Uberti parts are also very, very nice (and the ones with Uberti parts are still nice). (On the much cheaper end, people love their SA Rugers as well, but I have little experience with them.)
There's also the K-frame S&W Model 19 and 66 (and others), but these are smaller and lighter revolvers, just like your Model 10. Many of them will not hold up very well to a steady diet of full-power .357 Mag. ammo. In recent-production guns, S&W eliminated the flat gas-ring clearance cut on the bottom of the barrel at the forcing cone, thus strengthening the barrels and increasing longevity. You'll have to determine whether they are too light to make pleasant shooters.
Plenty of Colts you could look at as well. The old Pythons are as iconic as .357 Mag. revolvers come. They aren't all of the same quality, though. Colt's quality had really declined by the late 1970s, and it bottomed out in the second half of the 1980s. Some of the 1990s guns I've seen (and owned) aren't much better. I don't have any experience with the new Python. It has some significant technical improvements over the old version, but I've read more than a few complaints of serious quality control issues over the last year. The only other Colt .357 Mag. revolvers I like at all are the original Trooper (1953-69) and the Colt 3-5-7 (1953-61), which was just a more refined Trooper (or, in many respects, a less refined Python). (Well, I also love the Shooting Master, but only 500 were made in .357 Mag., and they aren't cheap.) Other more common old Colts in .357 Mag. are the Trooper Mark III, the Trooper Mark V, and the King Cobra. The new King Cobra is a small-frame revolver of a different design.
Dan Wesson revolvers have a smaller but ardent following. I gather that quality has varied at different times, with guns made in the late 1980s and 1990s being viewed less favorably than the earlier guns. Current-production DWs seem to draw very positive reviews overall.
There are other cheaper options from Taurus, Rossi, Charter Arms, and RIA/Armscor, but the 686/586 and GP100 would be my personal floor in a search for a quality .357 Mag. wheelgun.
Plenty of other brands and guns that I haven't listed as well.
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AustinTX
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Well, they do in their price range, at least.
Barry the Bear
Member
What would you gain at a higher price point? Beyond aesthetics any percieved notion of durability is negligible
Pat Riot
Contributing Member
Film495,
There are a lot of good recommendations here.
I would like to go in a different direction. You said you might like a rifle pistol combination in .357 Magnum, correct?
I would look at what type of rifle you were considering and then think what 6 shooter would go with it.
Lever gun? Perhaps a Blackhawk or a Vaquero, both single action.
Bolt gun? Ruger or S&W double action revolver.
Single shot? Maybe a higher capacity 8 round S&W or Ruger Redhawk.
You mentioned using the .357 for CCW. Personally, I would lean more toward a .38 if you are going with a J frame sized revolver but the Ruger SP101 has a little more weight on it than S&W J frames so that is a consideration.
If you like the K frame size to match your model 10 you may wish to look at a Model 19 Classic. These new model 19s aren’t prone to problems with magnum loads, per S&W. I have a 19-4 with a 6” barrel. I much prefer shooting .38 Specials from it.
If you have a range that rents guns go invest some money renting and shooting several guns and see what you might like. We all have our preferences and can only tell you those.
I will tell you this, I have had a J frame .357. It was a model 60 Pro. It was a fine looking gun. Unleashing 5 rounds of 158 grain .357 Magnum was quite exhilarating. It kicked like crazy, belched fire and made a lot of noise. It weighed 23 ounces.
Shooting stuff like this is why I had carpal tunnel surgery recently and will eventually have a metal plate in my wrist.
Get yourself a heavier .357 Magnum and CCW a smaller .38.
My 2 cents
There are a lot of good recommendations here.
I would like to go in a different direction. You said you might like a rifle pistol combination in .357 Magnum, correct?
I would look at what type of rifle you were considering and then think what 6 shooter would go with it.
Lever gun? Perhaps a Blackhawk or a Vaquero, both single action.
Bolt gun? Ruger or S&W double action revolver.
Single shot? Maybe a higher capacity 8 round S&W or Ruger Redhawk.
You mentioned using the .357 for CCW. Personally, I would lean more toward a .38 if you are going with a J frame sized revolver but the Ruger SP101 has a little more weight on it than S&W J frames so that is a consideration.
If you like the K frame size to match your model 10 you may wish to look at a Model 19 Classic. These new model 19s aren’t prone to problems with magnum loads, per S&W. I have a 19-4 with a 6” barrel. I much prefer shooting .38 Specials from it.
If you have a range that rents guns go invest some money renting and shooting several guns and see what you might like. We all have our preferences and can only tell you those.
I will tell you this, I have had a J frame .357. It was a model 60 Pro. It was a fine looking gun. Unleashing 5 rounds of 158 grain .357 Magnum was quite exhilarating. It kicked like crazy, belched fire and made a lot of noise. It weighed 23 ounces.
Shooting stuff like this is why I had carpal tunnel surgery recently and will eventually have a metal plate in my wrist.
Get yourself a heavier .357 Magnum and CCW a smaller .38.
My 2 cents
66-2. Any way you go - go S&W pre-lock.
Palladan44
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OP- If you shop around, ask around or shoot around, I think your 357 sweetheart will FIND YOU!
What we tell you on THR wont make anything feel better in your hand or shoot more accurately for you...take the Ruger vs. Smith opinionators with a small grain of salt. Theyre both going to serve you well.
Once I got a real job back in say 2005, I went to a gun show with 500 cash bucks in my pocket. I left the show with no money, but I had my first 357 in hand. Smith and Wesson M-586-1. 6" from the 1980s. Excellent condition, just no box or papers (which meant her destiny wasn't to sit in a safe for the next 40 years-nothing against S&W collectors)
I also wouldnt overlook used guns or out of production models, either. Shooter grade Colt Trooper/Lawmans, Ruger Security Sixes, or past runs of Smith and Wessons that run back all the way to 1935 are all among my favorites.
What we tell you on THR wont make anything feel better in your hand or shoot more accurately for you...take the Ruger vs. Smith opinionators with a small grain of salt. Theyre both going to serve you well.
Once I got a real job back in say 2005, I went to a gun show with 500 cash bucks in my pocket. I left the show with no money, but I had my first 357 in hand. Smith and Wesson M-586-1. 6" from the 1980s. Excellent condition, just no box or papers (which meant her destiny wasn't to sit in a safe for the next 40 years-nothing against S&W collectors)
I also wouldnt overlook used guns or out of production models, either. Shooter grade Colt Trooper/Lawmans, Ruger Security Sixes, or past runs of Smith and Wessons that run back all the way to 1935 are all among my favorites.
AustinTX
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Not so. You can argue that there wouldn't be a practical difference for the average user, but then that would also be the case for a S&W 340PD versus a .357 Mag. Redhawk.
In any event, properly designed and built revolvers fashioned from steel alloys with tensile strengths in the range of true tool steels and maraging steels -- like Ratzeburg Korths and Mulhouse Manhurin MR73s -- will in fact be much more durable than similarly sized revolvers built from the run-of-the-mill steel alloys used in mass-productions firearms manufacture.
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JTHunter
Member
film495 - several years ago, I bought a GP-100 with a 4" barrel as I found the 6" to be a bit "nose heavy". Depending on your hand size, this may not be a problems for you.
Happy hunting for a new shooter.
Happy hunting for a new shooter.
Barry the Bear
Member
I would still recommend the new ones, the new ones do not have the relief cut at the bottom of the forcing cone and are more durable with heavier or hi velocity loads than the old ones, they still are not the equal of the L frame or the GP100 but they're better suited to .357 duty than their older counterparts and I say that as a sometimes carrier to a 66-2 himself
Barry the Bear
Member
Gonna have to just disagree with you there. This doesn't seem to be worth arguing the point
Couple of years ago I got the Kimber K6s. I'd get the larger grips, by Altamont, for reduced recoil. It's still a handful.
It's also expensive, (almost 800$, when you add in the new grips) but it's a great concealed carry package, made snag-free, with a really good trigger.
AustinTX
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You disagree with basic materials science and physics? Well, okay then. I agree that that's not worth arguing.
2ndtimer
Member
I don't believe Ruger ever chambered the Super Redhawk in .357 Magnum. The standard Redhawk was offered briefly in a 6 shot .357 Magnum, then discontinued for many years, only fairly recently being re-introduced in an 8 shot version with an unfluted cylinder. The standard Redhawk is still a very large revolver and the original six shooter may have rivaled the Freedom Arms single action for strongest .357 Magnum at the time.
AustinTX
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Yes, you're correct. Not sure why I typed SRH instead of RH. Will correct the post.
The old six-shot .357 Mag. RH is a truly preposterous creation to my eyes, but I still entertain the idea of picking one up from time to time. I'm fully aware of its strength. My point was that if the other poster's argument was only as to differences in durability observable by the average owner, who probably doesn't even put 500 rounds through any one gun in his life, then there won't be any apparent difference between the most rugged and the most delicate.
The old six-shot .357 Mag. RH is a truly preposterous creation to my eyes, but I still entertain the idea of picking one up from time to time. I'm fully aware of its strength. My point was that if the other poster's argument was only as to differences in durability observable by the average owner, who probably doesn't even put 500 rounds through any one gun in his life, then there won't be any apparent difference between the most rugged and the most delicate.
stonebuster
Member
All nice 357s gentlemen! I like my 4"& 5" gp 100 357s and Speed Sixes but I've got to give equal time to the Dan Wesson 15-2s. I like to be able to change out the barrel/shroud to suit the ocassion.
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