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I have hard water and have been wet-cleaning my cases for 5+ years with hot water, s/s pins, citric acid powder & ArmorAll Wash&Wax and have never run into issues because of the additional mineral content of the water.
I did, however, learn 30+ years ago to not wash the windows and/or car/truck with my well-water without carefully squeegee/towel drying afterwards, though.
Wen you soften the water you can use less soap and get the same results. The easy way to tell if your water is hard is to wash your hands with lots of soap. If the water is hard the suds will wash off easy and you will be rubbing your hands and they will feel rough with friction. Soft water will leave soap on your hands for a longer time and they will still feel slippery after the suds are gone. Too much salt leaves a film on the brass just like on the windows.
Salt (chloride) plus vinegar (acid) are commonly used together to clean copper.
The salt penetrates the oxide layer and allows the acid to react with the copper base. That's why salt corrodes brass and copper.
It has nothing to do with making the water "soft"...which adding salt to water doesn't do anyway.
If you have heavy tarnished range pickup brass and you don't use salt or use too much lemon shine the cases come out copper looking.
It's good to know if you want distinctive looking cases.
Say brass for standard loads, nickle for +p and copper for insane.
I use the Lemi Shine booster. It contains citric acid. But dont use too much. Small tumbler a 9mm capful. A medium to large tumbler 2-3 9mm capsules.
If you deprime before hand you wont see a bit of anything in the primer pockets which is the hardest place to clean on brass.
I have also used the armor all wash n wax. I use it more on maintenance cleans where the brass still has its shine. For tarnished brass I go dawn and lemi shine.
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