I got one of those after using a commong chamfer/debur tool for a few hundred pockets. Works much faster - and very inexpensive. So far so good, but I have yet to prime any of that brass, so - for what it is worth.
I got one of those after using a commong chamfer/debur tool for a few hundred pockets. Works much faster - and very inexpensive. So far so good, but I have yet to prime any of that brass, so - for what it is worth.
I had both and if priming 223 I had that happen a few times.Mine works OK, but I prefer the one that takes shell holders. Probably just me, but cases pop out of it now and then.
I just ordered on, I’ll give it a go and pop one inI got one of those after using a commong chamfer/debur tool for a few hundred pockets. Works much faster - and very inexpensive. So far so good, but I have yet to prime any of that brass, so - for what it is worth.
Won’t hurt a thing done properlyI am reluctant to use this tool -----------100-012-028WB Small Primer Pocket Uniformer since I fear that I will remove too much brass from the pocket. Especially when using the case a second or third time. Also I use a drill and my motion is never consistent nor perpendicular.
Anyone else?
That is what I use. It takes a couple twists and you're done. Makes priming a breeze.
Nice!That is what I use. It takes a couple twists and you're done. Makes priming a breeze.
what size counter sink is that?So i used a standard countersink, no problem at all. Just knocked the sharp edge off and put the smallest angle and done.View attachment 991779the top right brass case is done. Just enough different to really make a difference.
I have a new drill press in the box. But I haven’t used one since I worked at a machine shop after high school. I might try the counter sink with my hands
I moved the speed down to 420 rpm. It's not like I needed to remove material. I'm shopping for r25 collets and a collet block so I can start making my own test cases for the hornaday tool. When I have my lathe back in my life things will be much better.I have a new drill press in the box. But I haven’t used one since I worked at a machine shop after high school. I might try the counter sink with my hands
I miss working on a Lathe and Mill! most satisfying trade ever. It just didn’t pay enough to make it a careerI moved the speed down to 420 rpm. It's not like I needed to remove material. I'm shopping for r25 collets and a collet block so I can start making my own test cases for the hornaday tool. When I have my lathe back in my life things will be much better.
The head of the primer is sitting deeper than the low edge of my chamfer. I believe right tool for the job and empirically this seems to be it.I would NEVER recommend someone drill out primer pockets.
There are too many tools of all price ranges to do the jog.
Everywhere from $3.99 (Lee) on up to over $100 (Dillon).
Please proceed with caution.
Stay safe my friends
I used that hand held tool... It don’t work that well. Mabey I’m not putting enough pressure on it
Were not even talking about the same thing. Removing a military crimp requires a reamer. In the case of that situation I totally agree swaging makes a ton of sense especially to the nonmachinst type that dont understand tiny tollerance. What I am doing is a finishing process that should have been done in the factory. If you really look at the picture I posted of cases the factory nickle case has a comparable or maybe even slightly larger chamfer. The s and b cases come with a completely square corner on the primer pocket. It's the same on 38. I have not had this issue with the 45 or 9mm or 308 brass.I've used chamfering tools and the RCBS swager tool, and I hugely prefer the swager tools. I had to remove the primer crimp from many hundreds of milsurp .30-06 and 9mm cases, and doing it with the RCBS swager in my single stage press made it go a heck of a lot faster and easier. It's also cheaper than the motorized chamfering tools. I guess you could do it with a drill and the right shape of bit, but that seems pretty easy to really mess things up.
Were not even talking about the same thing. Removing a military crimp requires a reamer. In the case of that situation I totally agree swaging makes a ton of sense especially to the nonmachinst type that dont understand tiny tollerance. What I am doing is a finishing process that should have been done in the factory. If you really look at the picture I posted of cases the factory nickle case has a comparable or maybe even slightly larger chamfer. The s and b cases come with a completely square corner on the primer pocket. It's the same on 38. I have not had this issue with the 45 or 9mm or 308 brass.