The '62 is a tiny gun....

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That was interesting, one was $8 bucks, the other like $39 or something like that. !!! But, I already ordered one that came with five nipples, and then I ordered some good nipples (Tesco-Tresco-?) also, so I should be all set. But thanks for the tip.

Sure looking forward to shooting this thing, with a wrench and good nipples on the way, a tall front sight, and the action smooth and working right. Not much room to get a slug started in the cylinder, hope it shoots good with a ball. I could carry enough of them little .36 balls to live off the land for a long time. !!! Squirrel, grouse, and rabbit stew, breakfast, lunch, and dinner! And if I'm packing the Bess, I could dump a handful down her barrel, and wipe out the whole darn pack of attacking wolves with one shot. ;)
 
This thread convinced me to buy a 5 inch Uberti 1862 Police after I heard they only need minor attention and have "great accuracy" (post #4). I just received it a couple of weeks ago and It really is a gem of a revolver. To say I am impressed with it would be an understatement. I understand why Colt sold more of this type than anything else. Those that own them seem to fall in love with them over time. If you are familiar with S&W revolvers, It would be a "J" frame size, Where the 1860, 1861 & 1851 would be "K" frames. Of course the Dragoons and Walkers would be "N" frames.
So just imagine a 5 inch S&W Model 36 Chief special and you have the size and characteristics of this gun. Pretty neat actually...
 
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Since the wife bought a puppy, I bought a Uberti '62, and still got in trouble, and the '62 didn't cost anywhere near, not even close, to the price of a puppy. Go figure.

This thing is miniscule. The '60 totally dwarfs it. !!!

There it is next to my 1860, I didn't realize how small the '62 is. Not complaining, I wanted a much lighter .36 for times when I'm trying to minimize weight, and don't really need the power of the 1860 or the Remington Navy. Kind of like when you might carry a .22LR, instead of the .357. And, I don't think a hungry and bold wolf will like getting shot with it. That's the plan anyhow, as long as she proves to be small-game capable. To my mind, that's a tight group at 15 yards, or hitting a pop can at that distance consistently. When in the woods, that's the average distance that I see grouse or rabbits on the ground.

It sure is a beautiful pistola, with the 1860 type barrel, and the heavily fluted cylinder. Hardly any visible markings on it. She's very pretty. And tiny. Can't get over how small it is, have never handled one before. I may call it "Mighty Mite" if she proves worthy. :)

If that was you that outbid me... Shame on you!!!!! :)
 
Nope, got it from "The Gun Works". They got it to me in something like 3 days.
 
Never used em but i like the way they sound. 3 days? Sign me up. Im loving that revolver btw. I just scratched my itch for a new one and purchased a 1858 SS Uberti : )
 
That is great. I would advise having it shipped to one of our revolver tuners/smiths, have them go through it, and then send it on to you.
 
Im a tinkerer myself. Probably no where near their level ...but I don't do to bad of a action job/trigger job myself.Though theres ALWAYS room for improvement when honing any skill. Just about everything I've learned bout these old sixguns has came off the high road or other old forums
 
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SlixShot is now making their stainless steel vented nipples spacifficly ( is dat spelt wright o_O ? ) in a set of 5 for the 1862 pocket police Uberti's which I assume will fit the other small frame Uberti revolvers as well.
 
Absolutely stunning.

There are some people who really dislike this gun. I really don't know why. These things are a gem when they are in working order.

The one I handled, a current production model had timing problems and a loose wedge as well as cylinder binding against the forcing cone when the wedge was pushed all the way in. The fit of the arbor and cylinder was a little more loose than other cap and ball guns but in my opinion still within acceptable tolerances. The timing problems most likely was fixed by shortening the hand a small bit with a file, but in order to fix the loose wedge and cylinder binding problem, the arbor needed bottoming out after which all the problems went away and everything improved. A little work was done on the hammer mounted locking latch cam and the leg of the locking latch to smooth things out a little more. Now it all looks, works, and feels normal.

Fixing the arbor first before moving on to anything else is in my opinion the way to go. I have not fired it so I can't comment on whether it's prone to cap jams or not.

I think these represent Colt's vision of what his goals were in making cap and ball revolvers. That was to make a small, lightweight, practical and useful revolver. I would guess due to the booming sales of his earlier anemic pocket .31 that the boat anchor guns were not the first choice of most people.

You haven’t even fired yours but somehow feel entitled to question why those that have actually shot them find them problematic?

The new Uberti pocket models are extremely rough and I bet you’ll find your two repairs will still result in cap jams as you haven’t fixed the root problems of them in these small guns. In short, the mainsprings are too weak and the factory nipples allow too much blowback.
 
JCooperfan1911 I have been told by The Outlaw Kid that if you have a cap rake (cap post?) installed that it will prevent hammer blowback in these type firearms. So if anyone here is having that issue both Mike ( 45 Dragoon ) and Sergio ( Theoutlawkid ) both offer this modification in their percussion revolver tune-ups. I am having my 1862 Police .36 done right now.
 
My hands span ten and a half inches and I have been able to palm a basketball since I was 16. (A couple of years ago...) I can’t shoot those little pistols as much as I wish I could. They are stinking cute...
 
I have found that the '62 doesn't "sit well" in the hand, it feels too small, to me. It's taking me a while to get used to it. But, as a small game, wilderness survival pistol that isn't real important to me. As long as I can shoot it accurately, and I can, that's what I wanted. The gun being light, and the ammo being light fits my bill. For me it's a "working gun", so I'm happy. And I'll say it one hundred times at least, DANG it's accurate, and a more pretty little (or stinking CUTE!) gun I've never seen.

I just got my Slixshot nipples for it today, and put them on. The Remington 10's, and the CCI 11's fit them real nice, a little bit better than the stock nips. I've got about five #10 Rems left. But, the Remington #11's fit good, or "okay", so that's a bonus. I have 3/4's of a tin of them. Anyhow, ran out of daylight today, so tomorrow I'll see how she runs with the Slix-Nips. Might take her up North in a couple days to chase Turks around the mountains with Bessie. Not having much luck around home, and I want to see how much snow is left on the mountain roads.
 
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Yes Virginia, the 1862 is an accurate pistola. She sure likes 4fg, eh? The low shot was the last shot, I think I got spooked hoping not to mess up a one hole group. Oh well. The 4fg also brought the point of impact to exactly where I want it. Aim just under the grouse's belly, dead grouse. Aim right at the bottom of Wabbit's head, head shot! Of course under "field conditions", such accuracy won't be achieved, most of the time. But ya can't blame the pistol!

This was also a test of the Slix-Shot nipples. They worked good. First shot, just enough blow-back to deposit the cap just behind the nipple, on the frame and under the hammer. Cocking it with the "flip", up and back, threw that off. Subsequent shots there was no observable blow-back, caps remained on the nipples. The "flip" either threw them off, or they stayed put on the nipple, or fell off on further rotation.

So, good enough. I'm taking her up North to my mountain hunting grounds tomorrow, but cannot see any reason to shoot it, as grouse are not open, not legal for turkey, and I don't anticipate getting lost for three days and needing to shoot food. I'll be staying on familiar trails and in areas I know well. And, I'll be leaving Bess at home, and taking my double hammer breech loading gun, loaded with turkey loads in the right barrel, and a big old hunking .690" ball, over a boatload of black powder, in the left in case grizz challenges me for the right of way, or them nasty wolves who are out to get me attack. But, it will be her big baptism as a "working" gun.
 
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Ugly Sauce; 4 out of 5 shots within about 1 inch is outstanding accuracy, and skillful shooting ( 1st target ) ! Please keep us posted on how these "Mighty Mite" pistols perform, especially with 4FG. The Outlaw Kid should be done with mine soon. I will have to try that 4FG powder.
 
Thanks!

Well one thing I've noticed on both my Uberti Remington, and this 1862, is that they have very nice rifling, and the forcing cones are very nice. I've seen forcing cones on revolvers, both cartridge guns and cap-n-ball, that look like they hit it quickly with a router bit, or carved it out with a pocket knife. Very rough, and steep. The '62 I have really has a nice forcing cone, very clean, and looks like a very gentle angle to it. They both have nice deep rifling, although my 1860, an old ASA/Euroarms gun, has very shallow rifling, but is nice and accurate. Still, I like to see the deep rifling of the Uberti's.

You know, for so many years, 4fg was like "taboo" or bad ju-ju to use for anything but priming. It would blow your face off, it was often stated. But any evidence of that never surfaced, as far as I know. And, over the years I've "discovered" more people who use 4fg, but don't really admit it often. I've kind of come to believe that 4fg is what was known as, or referred to as "fine pistol powder", and I think it works great, in a pistol. I'm getting good accuracy, and super-clean burning, so I'm pretty much switching to 4fg for my revolvers. My .50" Plains Pistol I'll stick with 3fg.
 
Thanks!

Well one thing I've noticed on both my Uberti Remington, and this 1862, is that they have very nice rifling, and the forcing cones are very nice. I've seen forcing cones on revolvers, both cartridge guns and cap-n-ball, that look like they hit it quickly with a router bit, or carved it out with a pocket knife. Very rough, and steep. The '62 I have really has a nice forcing cone, very clean, and looks like a very gentle angle to it. They both have nice deep rifling, although my 1860, an old ASA/Euroarms gun, has very shallow rifling, but is nice and accurate. Still, I like to see the deep rifling of the Uberti's.

You know, for so many years, 4fg was like "taboo" or bad ju-ju to use for anything but priming. It would blow your face off, it was often stated. But any evidence of that never surfaced, as far as I know. And, over the years I've "discovered" more people who use 4fg, but don't really admit it often. I've kind of come to believe that 4fg is what was known as, or referred to as "fine pistol powder", and I think it works great, in a pistol. I'm getting good accuracy, and super-clean burning, so I'm pretty much switching to 4fg for my revolvers. My .50" Plains Pistol I'll stick with 3fg.

As discussed on another thread. Using the 4F by volume means your using more powder by weight. The energy equivalent by weight is the same for the two. So by volume your going to change the velocity of your projectiles, ball or bullet. At the smallish volumes in pistols the difference isn’t substantial but there is a difference.
As you know black powder will reach a point of diminishing returns by volume as the excess powder is simply blown out of the barrel as unburned powder or soot.
 
The performance of 4f seems worth investigating. I will buy a pound of it next time. Would full power loads in my 1862 Police with 4f Goex be excessive for the smaller frame??
 
Thanks!

Well one thing I've noticed on both my Uberti Remington, and this 1862, is that they have very nice rifling, and the forcing cones are very nice. I've seen forcing cones on revolvers, both cartridge guns and cap-n-ball, that look like they hit it quickly with a router bit, or carved it out with a pocket knife. Very rough, and steep. The '62 I have really has a nice forcing cone, very clean, and looks like a very gentle angle to it. They both have nice deep rifling, although my 1860, an old ASA/Euroarms gun, has very shallow rifling, but is nice and accurate. Still, I like to see the deep rifling of the Uberti's.

You know, for so many years, 4fg was like "taboo" or bad ju-ju to use for anything but priming. It would blow your face off, it was often stated. But any evidence of that never surfaced, as far as I know. And, over the years I've "discovered" more people who use 4fg, but don't really admit it often. I've kind of come to believe that 4fg is what was known as, or referred to as "fine pistol powder", and I think it works great, in a pistol. I'm getting good accuracy, and super-clean burning, so I'm pretty much switching to 4fg for my revolvers. My .50" Plains Pistol I'll stick with 3fg.
Britsmoothy, on another forum, shoots 4f in nearly everything. Smooth bores, rifles, etc. these are full charges and often fired in original guns hundreds of years old. Amazingly, he still has his face and although it’s not a beautiful face it does appear to be OEM and not significantly altered.
 
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