Hope for the 1862, I seemed to have done something right.

[Ugly Sauce]

Not exactly sure, but I did something. What I did was relieve some metal off the inside curve of the hammer, so that the hammer could actually touch the nipples, and dressed the hammer face, which didn't look to me to be a 90 degree interface with the nipples. Now she fires on all five cylinders. !!! For some reason, the Tresco nipples still won't fire, but now the Uberti nipples will even fire the CCI magnum caps. ?

Something I don't understand, is that yesterday when I fired it after working on it all day, I got some hammer blow-back on the first shot, but not the others. That was with about 19 grains of 3f. So last night I cleaned the barrel, and loaded it up with 15 grains. Then this morning, first shot, a little blow-back, not enough to jam it up, then none on the remaining cylinders. Beats the heck out of me.

Most mysteriously, to me, was that I then tested some other caps, just snapping them on unloaded chambers, to see if I was sentenced to just using one type/brand of cap, (they all worked) and I got a tiny bit of hammer blow-back one time, just snapping a cap. Wasn't a magnum cap. ?? And, even though I wish my main spring had a little more oooomph, it's not "super" weak. So...???

Anyhow, she "works", seems very sure-fire and she's passed the grouse/wabbit accuracy test. I shot that group at about 16 yards, in the snow, (just lightly snowing) sitting on a plastic lawn chair. So the pistola it's self is probably almost twice as accurate as the group shows. And again, 12-15 yards or closer is the range I usually encounter grouse on the ground, or rabbits, in my hunting/exploring/hiking/trekking grounds. Sometimes further, but I'd chance a 25 yard shot with it. I think I'll be carrying that with only four chambers loaded, so that's why it's a four-shot group. Five shot groups to come later. Stay tuned! Oh yeah, that group is exactly where she was looking. POI and POA are the same. She's right on. (although I threw two shots to the right)

Much more happy now, was starting to get a bit frustrated with the pistol.

 

[Acorn Mush]

Nice-looking group, and nice-looking revolver. Glad your endeavors met with success. Please keep us posted.

 

[Ugly Sauce]

Thank you I will. Now she'll have to prove herself by being good. Also have a small selection of caps to try, see which ones work best. Lots more groups to shoot.

 

[woodnbow]

Same chamber blows back al of the time? Btw, can you please show a closeup of the front sight? Thanks!

 

[Ugly Sauce]

Same chamber...I had not thought of that. Wouldn't be the nipples, as they have been in and out quite a bit...or...could be the same nipple. !!! We shall investigate further, as we put her through her paces.

The front sight, "The Gun Works" has those. Originally bought that for my Brown Bess. I thought I'd be able to trim that shorter, but turns out the height puts it exactly on at small-game-range, with a light ball load. Being silver, it sweats onto a barrel really easy with a minimum of heat.

 

[Ugly Sauce]

"Sterling silver pinched heart front sight". Now I didn't really like it when I first put it on, thought it kind of "overpowered" the gun, but it's grown on me. I blacked it out a bit to blend it in, but cleaning and working on the gun has worn most of it off. And that's just my own taste. Some would love it, many will be HORRIFIED because it's not "original". But again, this is a working survival tool for me, not living history, and being dead-on is a must for the pistol. If one actually needs to supplement one's food supply with small game, you don't want to be aiming six/seven/eight inches or more under the game, and hope your hold is good. I'm pretty tickled that it put the gun right-on/dead-on at exactly the range I wanted it.

 

[Old No7]

View attachment 973106
Something I don't understand, is that yesterday when I fired it after working on it all day, I got some hammer blow-back on the first shot, but not the others. That was with about 19 grains of 3f. So last night I cleaned the barrel, and loaded it up with 15 grains. Then this morning, first shot, a little blow-back, not enough to jam it up, then none on the remaining cylinders. Beats the heck out of me.

That suggests it's powder fouling related to me...

Guess I'll have to get mine out to shoot again.

Old No7

 

[Ugly Sauce]

It's pretty hard to argue with Old No.7! No, the gun was clean, hadn't been fired. When I fired it again the next morning, I had not cleaned the chambers, but had wiped the fouling off the rest of the gun, cleaned the pin and bore of the barrel. And, it had only been fired four times.

But yes, get yours out and shoot it again!

 

[Dave Markowitz]

Nice work. I like the front sight. I'll keep that in mind for my Uberti 1862 Pocket Police.

Mine is the most frustrating percussion revolver I own. The lug for the loading lever wasn't properly dovetailed into the barrel and falls out. I need to silver solder or braze it in place. It's also more prone to cap jams than my larger guns. I haven't tried replacing the nipple yet, however.

The front sight is vestigial at best, so your solution looks really good.

 

[Ugly Sauce]

Out of the three C&B revolvers I have owned, this one is certainly the most troublesome. I did have a 1851 for a short time, recently, that almost drove me nuts, but I traded it off as it weighed as much as my Remington Navy, and couldn't do anything it can't do, so there was no point in keeping it. It sure was a pretty gun, but it's in much better hands now. For "some" reason, my 1860 and Remington Navy have never had problems. In the million years I've owned the 1860, it's never failed to fire, and caps have fallen into the action maybe...two times? !! And that was only when I didn't flip it up and back on cocking. The Remington has never jammed.

The '62 I plan to use for small game, and for when I'm packing enough rifle that a side arm is less important. Kind of my cap and ball version of a .22LR revolver. So, I'm willing to put up with some amount of cap-jamming, and hope that with some fiddling around I can get that to a minimum. I hope to find a specific brand and size of cap that will be the least prone to jamming. I'm also going to increase the main spring pressure/tension/strength just a bit to see if I can make any difference there. It does not have an especially weak spring, but it could be increased a bit. The 1860 and Remington Navy both have strong springs.

Playing around with nipples, I can't get the Trescos to work, period. Which is a mystery to me. From what I can find, they don't seem to make the Slix Shot nipples for the '62. However, in this gun, the Uberti nipples seem to work well. What I like about the Tresco's and the stainless nipples that the Track sell, is that the caps are a tighter fit on the nipples and won't fall off. I will admit that I have had loose fitting caps fall off the nipple under recoil a few times. Now I have the stainless Track nipples on both the Remington and the 1860.

The front sight is an easy fix, sweats on easy, and on my pistol put the POI dead on at 15 yards, and I believe it should still be on at 25. This '62 is very accurate, that's for sure.

 

[Navy Six 2]

I have a Uberti Pocket Navy that experienced the same problem. Brand new gun which I cleaned inside and out and fired caps without any powder or ball. I also got hammer blowback! Only got worse when I actually shot 15 grs 3F Goex with .375 round ball. I installed Slix-Shot nipples which helped a little. Tried installing a second mainspring which worked about 80% but I didn't care for the very heavy cocking effort. I cleaned up the insides of any roughness but I am at a stand still. Does anyone have a suggestion?
Ugly Sauce, the Uberti Pocket models take the same size nipples as their full size models--excluding Walkers and Dragoons. The Slix-Shot nipples have a slightly larger diameter shoulder than the stock Uberti nipples. Since the nipple well on the Pocket models is so small, I had to turn down the diameter of the Slix-shot nipples to match that of the Uberti's shoulder--I forget the exact dimension. Using the Slix-shot nipples at least gave 100% ignition.I like this gun and want to use it, so I would like to straighten it out. A Uberti 49 Pocket is displaying similar, but not as bad, performance. Both of the mentioned guns were newly purchased within the last few years.

 

[Ugly Sauce]

Something I've just noticed on this '62, is that on the very last teeny tiny bit of hammer travel, just before hitting the nipple, I can feel that there's a reduction in the feel, or weight of the hammer spring. Check it out, just that last tiny bit. When I carefully lift the hammer off an uncapped nipple, for about 1/64th of an inch (or something like that) there's hardly any effort, then I can feel the mainspring kind of "kick in", or increase.

That is not true with either my 1860 or Remington. I can feel the full force of the mainspring as I lift/pull the hammer back from resting on the nipple on both those pistols. That would certainly contribute to hammer blow-back or bounce back, I would think. See if your pistol does that. Perhaps therein lies the problem?

Maybe the Kid or Mr.Dragoon have some thoughts on that one. ! I hope.

 

[grter]

This might sound weird but check to see if the top of the main spring is rubbing on the brass grip frame where it is close. Not the sides although it might no be a bad idea to check that too anyway.

When you install the grip you can feel a little tension when assembling over the mainspring. That is normal but my impression is that sometimes, at least from my point of view it presses a tiny bit on top of the mainspring allowing the problem you described. Pressing the hammer forward or firing it MAY allow enough of the spring to slide forward underneath allowing full contact of the hammer to the nipple causing further confusion but if you pull the hammer a very tiny bit back you may notice it will not have any further contact with the nipple. You MAY also notice some slight cylinder rattle whenever the hammer is not resting on the nipple.

Filing A LITTLE BIT of brass off the part of the grip frame right over the mainspring starting with the sharp angled edge (rounding it a little) might solve the problem.

I don't know if fixing the problem will do anything to alleviate blow back but it at least may eliminate annoying slight cylinder rattle. If anything I am sure this issue (mainspring impeded) certainly does not help the blow back problem

 

[Ugly Sauce]

Why didn't I think of that? Don't answer. Thanks, great tip. !!!