My take away from that article seems to be different than yours.
It's not that he went 6,000 rounds between cleanings, folks can choose to do whatever they want, the point I was making by linking to that article is if you use a CLP, as a CLP, to Clean, Lubricate, and Protect, the more you use it the easier it gets to keep your gun clean.
In this instance, he wiped off nearly all the "crud" with just a paper towel. He didn't soak his gun overnight, he didn't degrease it, he didn't use some harsh chemical, he didn't spend 30 minutes with a bore brush on his barrel. He wiped off the crud. If it was a little stubborn, he used a little more CLP.
The more you use a CLP, without stripping it all off with some kind of degreaser, the better it works. That's the takeaway I got from that article, and the procedure I use. I normally clean my guns after every time I shoot them, but it is little more than some patches through the barrel, and wipe the crud off the gun with a paper towel.
I remember Bill Wilson recommending dunking 1911's, (with the grips off) in
dupont prep-sol. The formulation may have changed since then, the stuff used to be around $100 a gallon. Prep-sol will degrease to the point the pistol will rust if not immediately coated in oil! I am sure prep-sol removed all crud, oil, and plastic. I am not a proponent of aggressive degreasing, I think Bill was recommending Prep sol because it removed everything from all corners. As long as the crud is removed, I am not going to have to use GM engine top cleaner to remove baked on residue. My primary concern is removing crud. I am of the opinion that crud build up will cause function issues, whether or not the stuff is in solution or is moist. At some level of crud build up, function will be affected, but I don't know that level. Pouring oil over crud will keep the stuff solvated, until such point, it won't stay solvated.
So what the shooter did, firing 6000 rounds, every 1000 rounds oiling the pistol, but not wiping the crud out, will work fine in practice, until such time, it no longer works fine in practice. Some shooters go very long periods between cleaning, I have handled one Ruger MKIII and the owner purchased cases of 22lr, would shoot thousands of rounds at time at the range, could not remember when the last time he cleaned it. It had a lot of crud, but would function. And when it stopped going bang, that was the point at which the owner would clean the thing. Which is fine for practice. I do know that once the oil evaporates, carbon residue from gunpowder will attract moisture, and that will cause rust. I clean all my weapons before putting them away, because it may be a very long time till I pull that one out again. My match firearms are always cleaned, even though they get used several times in a month during the spring, summer, and fall, and I arrive at every match with a clean and lubricated firearm. Cleaning the mechanism though, is primarily wiping off, or blowing off, what ever is on the surface. Now that I have an air compressor I can blow out internal parts better than I could before, and I see dirty oil come out of the trigger mechanism. My S&W M41's get compressed air right through the firing pin channel, to remove any oil accumulation, which reduces the firing pin strike energy on the things. I had misfires directly attributable to having the firing pin and spring floating in oil. It is very hard to remove the firing pin and spring out of these match 22 LR's and wipe out the oil build up. Take a look at the
slide strip procedure S&W never intended the owner to remove the firing pin or spring. I am so grateful that someone posted how to do it, because I had to. When I am done wiping, I re oil, or re grease, depending on the application.
Barrels always get patched with a solvent, a brush, be it brass or nylon, and then wiped, and reoiled. I want clean chambers, and I don't want copper build up. My RIA 1911 is pretty bad about copper build up, so I regularly use JB Bore paste on the thing. My good match 1911 barrels, I seldom see build up, so they get solvent, a couple of passes with a bristle brass, a clean patch, and re oil. None of these require aggressive degreasing, such as Prep-Sol.