Have you been under a rock lately? Lol. Methylene Chloride has been outlawed for about 2 years. Because a (redacted) decided to use it in an enclosed bathroom and died.If one wants to remove all traces of plastic/organic traces, nothing is better than methylene chloride, previously known as Zip Strip. BUT, it must be done outdoors, while using gloves and mask.
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Just be careful! My nickel python has some of the nickel worn off. Its very thin and soft.
Just wondering why everyone wants to use chemicals that are outlawed or that require a haz-mat suit to wear, and apply it to a high end piece of art that has a vulnerable finish, when you can just take some Goo gone, apply it for a minute or two, rub it with your bare finger, and wipe it with a paper towel or cloth, and probably remove 100% of the problem with no injury whatsoever to the finish? For that matter, I'd be willing to bet Hoppe's 9 will work also. Some of these answers are like taking a bazooka to hunt for deer. You want to go big? Throw it on a wire wheel. That'll do the job.[/QUOTE
Nickel plating is immune to all of the common solvents you can buy at the hardware store as long as you avoid acid. I don't imagine you would have much luck finding the illegal ones. There is something wrong with bazooka for deer? Well, maybe the cost......
….. nothing is better than methylene chloride…..BUT, it must be done outdoors, while using gloves and mask…..
With a nickle plated gun don't use any copper solvents. I would try brake cleaner, remove the grips first. The nickle on these old Python are very soft, so your better off using solvents to remove it so you don't scratch the finish. Use nothing more than a cotton rag with light pressure.
I was always warned to avoid copper solvents like Hoppes on nickel guns. Folks have said any porosity or ding in the nickel plate could let Hoppes underneath, where it will attack the copper layer that’s plated on the steel prior to the nickel application.Just wondering why everyone wants to use chemicals that are outlawed or that require a haz-mat suit to wear, and apply it to a high end piece of art that has a vulnerable finish, when you can just take some Goo gone, apply it for a minute or two, rub it with your bare finger, and wipe it with a paper towel or cloth, and probably remove 100% of the problem with no injury whatsoever to the finish? For that matter, I'd be willing to bet Hoppe's 9 will work also. Some of these answers are like taking a bazooka to hunt for deer. You want to go big? Throw it on a wire wheel. That'll do the job.