Colt Nickel Python restoration

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Dice55

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My buddy's father left him a Nickel plated Colt Python that was stored in a foam case. The foam has disintegrated and covered the pistol with a
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with a hardened crud. He's searching for the best solvent to clean this. Any help is appreciated.
 
I don't use WD-40 for much but I might give it a try here. I'm not saying that plain soap and water might not work. I put some camo tape on my Kimber Montana several years ago. When I took it off I had a residue left, I got most of it off but still has a patina left. I decided not to let it bother me and stopped trying solvents and oils. I might try the dawn just to see. I can live with mine, but I think something as grand as a Python I'd want to get it as close to its glory days as possible. Good luck and keep us up to date on how this project goes.
 
With a nickle plated gun don't use any copper solvents. I would try brake cleaner, remove the grips first. The nickle on these old Python are very soft, so your better off using solvents to remove it so you don't scratch the finish. Use nothing more than a cotton rag with light pressure.
 
Haven't seen it with modern cases. Almost all from late 70's thru early 90's. No rhyme or reason. The foam goes soft, then goes gooey. Much more damaging to electronics then a non wood stocked firearm, imo.
 
My vote's with amp-rat. Goo Gone works great on stuff like that, and it's Citrus based. Definitely need to give some scrubbing action, but it dissolves tons of sticky stuff.
 
Call Colt and talk to them, they may or may not even take that Python in for repair.
Do Not attempt to repair that Python yourself. I have repaied, built and rebuilt over a dozen, but without parts readily available today, a repair/rebuild would be a crap shoot even for an experienced Python smith. Plus 99% of gunsmiths will not even touch a Python for repair to start with.
 
If one wants to remove all traces of plastic/organic traces, nothing is better than methylene chloride, previously known as Zip Strip. BUT, it must be done outdoors, while using gloves and mask.
 
If one wants to remove all traces of plastic/organic traces, nothing is better than methylene chloride, previously known as Zip Strip. BUT, it must be done outdoors, while using gloves and mask.
Have you been under a rock lately? Lol. Methylene Chloride has been outlawed for about 2 years. Because a (redacted) decided to use it in an enclosed bathroom and died.

We used to sell strippers and hardened brush cleaners containing it. That stuff worked FAST. But now everything has been reformulated.

As for the problem at hand, start with the least invasive methods and work up. One suggestion is a plastic razor blade. Goof-Off is a good product for removing adhesive. Its even safe on most fabrics.

Just be careful! My nickel python has some of the nickel worn off. Its very thin and soft.
 
I like lacquer thinner for jobs like that, but I would imagine any number of solvents would work. Aviation boys love Methyl Ethyl Ketone, but that stuff ain't good for you.
 
Just wondering why everyone wants to use chemicals that are outlawed or that require a haz-mat suit to wear, and apply it to a high end piece of art that has a vulnerable finish, when you can just take some Goo gone, apply it for a minute or two, rub it with your bare finger, and wipe it with a paper towel or cloth, and probably remove 100% of the problem with no injury whatsoever to the finish? For that matter, I'd be willing to bet Hoppe's 9 will work also. Some of these answers are like taking a bazooka to hunt for deer. You want to go big? Throw it on a wire wheel. That'll do the job.
 
Just wondering why everyone wants to use chemicals that are outlawed or that require a haz-mat suit to wear, and apply it to a high end piece of art that has a vulnerable finish, when you can just take some Goo gone, apply it for a minute or two, rub it with your bare finger, and wipe it with a paper towel or cloth, and probably remove 100% of the problem with no injury whatsoever to the finish? For that matter, I'd be willing to bet Hoppe's 9 will work also. Some of these answers are like taking a bazooka to hunt for deer. You want to go big? Throw it on a wire wheel. That'll do the job.[/QUOTE

Nickel plating is immune to all of the common solvents you can buy at the hardware store as long as you avoid acid. I don't imagine you would have much luck finding the illegal ones. There is something wrong with bazooka for deer? Well, maybe the cost......
 
With a nickle plated gun don't use any copper solvents. I would try brake cleaner, remove the grips first. The nickle on these old Python are very soft, so your better off using solvents to remove it so you don't scratch the finish. Use nothing more than a cotton rag with light pressure.

Be Careful!
Even WD40 has been known to lift some nickel plating!
 
I would probably start with alcohol and a soft cotton makeup remover pad. Test somewhere really hidden if possible. Some of these modern chemicals are pretty harsh. I have used a bunch of them before to clean up nickel but I would be a little shakey on a python. Probably best to talk to an expert refinisher.... or even a jewler.
Going to be tough since its hardened. If the original finish is not salvagable I would get that puppy mirror hard chromed.
 
Probably a stolen gun.... I have heard these stories before..... My buddies father twice removed from my friends second cousin.

Just kiddin... kinda
 
Just wondering why everyone wants to use chemicals that are outlawed or that require a haz-mat suit to wear, and apply it to a high end piece of art that has a vulnerable finish, when you can just take some Goo gone, apply it for a minute or two, rub it with your bare finger, and wipe it with a paper towel or cloth, and probably remove 100% of the problem with no injury whatsoever to the finish? For that matter, I'd be willing to bet Hoppe's 9 will work also. Some of these answers are like taking a bazooka to hunt for deer. You want to go big? Throw it on a wire wheel. That'll do the job.
I was always warned to avoid copper solvents like Hoppes on nickel guns. Folks have said any porosity or ding in the nickel plate could let Hoppes underneath, where it will attack the copper layer that’s plated on the steel prior to the nickel application.

Is that a myth or does Hoppes possibly damage nickel plating on guns? I have a Model 49 no-dash that is nickel plated and I would hate to damage it inadvertently.

Stay safe.
 
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