Anyone Besides Me Make BP?

.38 Special said:

I am interested in making high grade BP. Are you aware of any single source for that kind of information?

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There is a long running thread on the Castboolits site in the muzzleloading section that is populated by BP making enthusiasts who seem to have missed their calling regardless of what their day jobs are/were. They are who I would ask.

brewer12345 said:

There is a long running thread on the Castboolits site in the muzzleloading section that is populated by BP making enthusiasts who seem to have missed their calling regardless of what their day jobs are/were. They are who I would ask.

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Thanks, Brewer. I am currently about halfway through the thread but am finding that so far it is the typical backyard stuff that results in functional but not really top quality powder. Hopefully it gets better!

38 Spl, if you have specific questions just ask them. Posters there are super helpful. I learned a TON about casting, loading, BP and lots of other things there.

Seems to be a lot of interest in my statement about spectricide stump remover. I have looked at the spectricide sds and it does say that it is 100% KNO3; but, it is a very low grade that contains a lot of impurities. I can't imagine that stump remover is better than reagent grade (99.9% + purity standard). Spectricide is more than likely either fertilizer grade or reject material from the making of higher grades. The problem from my end is that if I buy 1 bottle that happens to be say 97% purity and the next bottle I buy is 99%, that has varied the final composition of the powder. It can and does make a measurable difference in the powder's performance. If that variance is acceptable for your needs, by all means use whatever you want. You don't have to go to the extreme that I do to make OK powder.
Another thing to consider is that spectricide stump remover is 8-12$ per pound. You can order reagent grade kno3 on amazon for $19.90 for 5 pounds plus $5.50 shipping. So $25.40 for 5 pounds (just a hair over $5 per pound). With the spectricide, are paying twice as much for an inferior product.

SmeeAgain said:

Question for the experts...
If I understand the process, I'm going to need a cylinder and a piston to compress the mixture.
I just happen to have a metal lathe (not by coincidence either) so... with a 20 ton press, what would the ideal inside cylinder diameter be? Or... what is the desired PSI and I'll figure it out.
Next question... Anyone who has prior experience with machine tools is aware that it's just as easy to make one "thing" as it is several. So... if I make more than one, is there anyone here who desperately needs a set?
No... I'm NOT selling them! It's a "pay it forward" kinda thing. I help you and you help out the next guy when you can.
Of course I wouldn't object to being reimbursed for shipping from Arizona at some point.

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A 20 ton press will handle a pretty large pucking die. You will wear yourself out pumping the thing. I use a 12 ton press with a air/hydraulic jack with a 5 sq inch puck die. If you can add a pressure gauge to the ram or build a force gauge you will be able to replicate the pressure applied each time.

As far as information on making high performance powders, try some of the pyrotechnics web sites. The amateur fireworks and rocket guys are getting pretty serious about making good powder. They even have competitions on lift powders.

.38 Special said:

I am interested in making high grade BP. Are you aware of any single source for that kind of information?

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https://probasketballdigest.com/pyrotechnics/pyrotechnics_english.pdf

Although it does not describe pucking you can deduce the process elsewhere in the book.

My homemade BP project got put on hold for a little bit however it will resume soon once we get caught up at work so I can stop working so many Saturdays. Powder I've made so far is about half as strong as goex and has ignition issues. But it still works in a pinch. I just double the load I normally use. Gonna try home made charcoal and the use of a press. Thus far been simply wetting it, placing it between two pieces of plastic and trying to compress it by standing on it. Obviously I don't weigh anywhere near enough. Thought about parking the truck on it for compression but I figure with all this over time money coming in it won't kill me to get a cheap HF press

Appalachiannative said:

My homemade BP project got put on hold for a little bit however it will resume soon once we get caught up at work so I can stop working so many Saturdays. Powder I've made so far is about half as strong as goex and has ignition issues. But it still works in a pinch. I just double the load I normally use. Gonna try home made charcoal and the use of a press. Thus far been simply wetting it, placing it between two pieces of plastic and trying to compress it by standing on it. Obviously I don't weigh anywhere near enough. Thought about parking the truck on it for compression but I figure with all this over time money coming in it won't kill me to get a cheap HF press

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Again, the longer it is tumbled (mixed) the stronger the end result. I go as far as to keep the ball mill running a full day. As far as the plastic goes... interesting concept but if you put the plastic between a wood or metal frame that is hinged at one end you can get plenty of pressure with a bolt or two through the opposite end and a ratchet wrench.

Officers'Wife said:

Again, the longer it is tumbled (mixed) the stronger the end result. I go as far as to keep the ball mill running a full day. As far as the plastic goes... interesting concept but if you put the plastic between a wood or metal frame that is hinged at one end you can get plenty of pressure with a bolt or two through the opposite end and a ratchet wrench.

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That's a good idea. I bet I could use my barrel vice as the frame. I still think my charcoal is is inferior because it does not even say what kind of wood it is made from and I left my ball mill running for 48 hrs last time. Noticed no difference in results

Appalachiannative said:

That's a good idea. I bet I could use my barrel vice as the frame. I still think my charcoal is is inferior because it does not even say what kind of wood it is made from and I left my ball mill running for 48 hrs last time. Noticed no difference in results

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I use willow and a hybrid called "austrees" to make my charcoal. While willow makes the better product, austrees give a more consistent mineral content and are easier to coke in quantity. Austrees also have a slightly larger pore area to better incorporate the niter and sulfer. FWIW- I make my charcoal in a steel 55 gallon drum with 1" air holes one three levels. It's simply a matter of stacking the dried wood solid in the barrel around a 5" drain tile then when the barrel full pull out the tile. Start a fire at the very bottom and cover with a lid with a pipe to act as a chimney. When the air holes show a glowing flame plug them with mud or clay. Same principle as an airtight wood stove only you let the fire starve and open it when cool.

I bought 10 pounds of 99.9% pure Potasium Nitrate from these people for $3.00 a pound. I haven't tried making any powder yet. I bought it for Just In Case. Buy the right one and its already a fine grain powder so should be quick and easy to mill to a flour.

https://www.seedranch.com/Potassium-Nitrate-s/2137.htm

They also sell sulfur

https://www.seedranch.com/Sulfur-Powder-5-Lbs-p/sulfur-powder-5.htm

smee if you do start making a puck die I would be interested in buying one. There used to be a guy who sold them and sold charcoal he makes but the story i was told is that someone POed him and he stopped selling anything.

You may want to watch this video from Brushippie on compressing BP. A guy name "Fly" used to make the compression dies

https://gunstreamer.com/watch/compressing-black-powder_ayzBXtwpbuWax12.html

And this video on corning powder. Don't make your compressed pucks too thick or they will be hard to break up.

https://gunstreamer.com/watch/making-corned-black-powder_JYaZmvV1EU7aeJz.html

Here is a powder mill I have on my ebay watch list.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2843171818...rentrq:f9f0b9bf17e0a74450565806fffad56a|iid:1

ThomasT said:

Here is a powder mill I have on my ebay watch list.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/284317181888?_trkparms=amclksrc=ITM&aid=111001&algo=REC.SEED&ao=1&asc=20160908105057&meid=20783faf86d246b79ac3a5fa71bc779b&pid=100675&rk=4&rkt=13&sd=304345859414&itm=284317181888&pmt=1&noa=1&pg=2380057&brand=Unbranded&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci:5ee3a3f9-8dd5-11ec-bebe-a28e0bd4afdc|parentrq:f9f0b9bf17e0a74450565806fffad56a|iid:1

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I would not use an iron milling surface for black powder. It would be fine for individual ingredients, but not for grinding black powder from pucks. Anything that can spark is a bad idea.

noelf2 said:

I would not use an iron milling surface for black powder. It would be fine for individual ingredients, but not for grinding black powder from pucks. Anything that can spark is a bad idea.

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I doubt you could turn that fast enough to make it spark. And if you watched the video I posted on corning powder the guy addressed that very thing. And the speed he is turning at it would not spark. Adjusted properly the grinding plates should never touch to spark in the first place.I wondered how long it would be before some nervous Nelly said something about that.

ThomasT said:

I doubt you could turn that fast enough to make it spark. And if you watched the video I posted on corning powder the guy addressed that very thing. And the speed he is turning at it would not spark. Adjusted properly the grinding plates should never touch to spark in the first place.I wondered how long it would be before some nervous Nelly said something about that.

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Everybody has their own level of risk tolerance. Quite frankly that goes far beyond mine for a variety of reasons. But then you would probably call me a nervous nelly since I tend to wear a ground strap when handling raw powder.

Officers'Wife said:

But then you would probably call me a nervous nelly since I tend to wear a ground strap when handling raw powder.

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Thats funny. I never thought of that. But I grew up cleaning parts in gas, worked around big powerful machines in my dads machine shop, rode motorcycles as hard and fast as they would go and ride around in my buds home built high performance airplane. So grinding a little powder wouldn't worry me. But it would be done safely and in small amounts at the grinder. And like I said unless you don't know how to adjust the grinder the grinding teeth should never touch. And I am betting that you could order ceramic plates for the grinder I posted a link to.

If you watched the brushippie videos I posted he commented about the grinder sparking. I would have let my ground powder fall in a glass bowl that I emptied in the main container set behind me with a cover on it. And I wouldn't have had as big a pile as he had just in case I did manage to set a small amount off.

But yes, do what you are comfortable doing. If it worries you maybe making your own powder or even caps for that matter isn't for you.

ThomasT said:

I doubt you could turn that fast enough to make it spark. And if you watched the video I posted on corning powder the guy addressed that very thing. And the speed he is turning at it would not spark. Adjusted properly the grinding plates should never touch to spark in the first place.I wondered how long it would be before some nervous Nelly said something about that.

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Not arguing here. First time I've been called a nervous Nelly, lol. I'm usually the one that balks at overly cautious people. I know Brushy, and well aware of his videos including that one in particular. By all means, you do you! Good luck.

For others interested, there are very good ceramic grinders as well.

noelf2 said:

Not arguing here. First time I've been called a nervous Nelly, lol. I'm usually the one that balks at overly cautious people. I know Brushy, and well aware of his videos including that one in particular. By all means, you do you! Good luck

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You really know brushippie? Thats cool. I would to meet and talk to that guy. I really don't think there is much of a risk with grinding the powder. Not unless you do something really stupid. I would wear gloves and a face shield and make sure my pile of powder didn't get too big before I moved it to a safe storage place. Just a few simple precautions and you should be fine.

Like in my other post I bet you can find ceramic grinding blades for it. Maybe the machine comes with a list of accessories you can order once you have it in hand.

ThomasT said:

You really know brushippie? Thats cool. I would to meet and talk to that guy. I really don't think there is much of a risk with grinding the powder. Not unless you do something really stupid. I would wear gloves and a face shield and make sure my pile of powder didn't get too big before I moved it to a safe storage place. Just a few simple precautions and you should be fine.

Like in my other post I bet you can find ceramic grinding blades for it. Maybe the machine comes with a list of accessories you can order once you have it in hand.

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He has a website called gunslingersgulch.com. It's not a very busy site, but he and a few others are usually chatting in the mornings. I don't go there much anymore though. Brushy used to have an annual rendezvous (rondee) before covid. He's in SW Missouri, near where I grew up.

To the OP. If you do a search here I think it was a poster named jackrabbit who had some detailed post on his method of making BP. And also making caps. It would be worth your time to find his post and give them a read. Those should help you a good deal.

noelf2 I used to have an account at gunslingers gulch but I can't seem to log in there now. I used to watch brushippies videos on YT before they got inspired and removed all the good stuff.

I've made some bp, starting when I read Locusts on the Horizon (http://locustsonthehorizon.info/), as a Kindle ebook. They recommended brushippie's videos, and this got me started. I ended up doing my own writeup in a 6,000+ word essay for SurvivalBlog.com, which was published over four days.

https://survivalblog.com/2019/10/08/
https://survivalblog.com/2019/10/09/
https://survivalblog.com/2019/10/10/
https://survivalblog.com/2019/10/11/

I continue to learn, and I'm planning on changing to the pressed, "puck" method for corning the powder. One person published a YouTube video showing how he'd take the newly-pressed, damp puck and press that through a screen with a mushroom-shaped piece of hardwood. I like that idea, as it avoids grinding dry powder!

Since posting the essay, I've considered myself a "gunpowder evangelist," telling others about making powder, caps, lube and bullets and effectively making black powder shooting the one type that can be independent of the regular ammo supply chain. If you look up gunpowder at wikipedia, they even give recipes used by the British for sulfur-free gunpowder (KNO3 and charcoal only!). It could be hard to get sulfur in a pinch, but you can make potassium nitrate and charcoal! ¡Sí, se puede!

This is a pic I've posted before. I'm shooting an Uberti Remington New Model Army, with homemade powder, homemade cap (just one chamber loaded), homemade lube, and a bullet I cast. Even my crummy homemade first attempt at powder seems pretty energetic!


Respectfully,
Dirty Bob

I started out making powder as a way of insuring that I'd have it when all the supply shortages hit. A big bonus was that it's a lot cheaper to make it than to buy it, although the savings aspect can be a bit fuzzy when you get into it enough and spend a fair amount of money on equipment. Weather permitting I like to shoot my flintlocks 3-4 times a week so I go through a lot of powder. Even so it's going to take a long time to reach breakeven point on my investment, but I've got some real nice equipment.

The whole making powder project has now pretty much turned into a hobby of it's own. It's gone from being something I did to keep myself supplied to something I do because I enjoy the process and I keep finding ways to improve this or that. As one example, I had read that people were having problems with motor failures on the HF tumblers I use, so I wanted to see what I could do to remedy that. I modified the tumbler using a DC motor with speed control and better v-belt. There's a few other pieces I've tweaked to make them work better for the powder making, so it's expanded my enjoyment of the shooting hobby.