Bought my first BP rifle.....what do you think?

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aaronrkelly

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Bought a CVA Kentucky rifle unseen.....seller couldnt provide pictures but says its in very good to excellent condition. Sounded honest.

Its a .45 cal and I get the rifle and 100 .45 balls for $110 shipped.

Assuming its in as-stated condition did I get a decent deal. Im looking to get into BP for the historic looking guns, I dont have any interest in the Knight Rifles etc. Want to get decent representatons of the rifles used in the Revolutionary War (which I believe the Kentucky style rifles were used) as well as the Civil War.

I may have a BP revolver coming in for Christmas.

Does CVA make a decent product?
 
CVA makes a decent percussion rifle, but if you're looking for a Revolutionary War-style, I hope the gun you get is a flintlock.

If your CVA is a flintlock, you might find it less than 100% reliable at sparking every time. This probably won't matter unless you intend to hunt with the gun.

Flintlocks were used until the 1830's. The caplock (percussion) guns came in soon after. Percussion is much more reliable. A definite improvement.
 
Its percussion.....but thats "close enough" for me. Flintlock probably isnt the place for a newbie to start.
 
If I'm thinking of the right gun, it's probably percussion and is a two piece stock with a huge chunk of brass between the two pieces. The brass represents a repaired crack that has been sheathed. The repros went this route so they could use shorter pieces of wood to make a stock.

At $110, the price is good and it's a shooter. Enjoy it and shoot it often.
 
For $110 shipped it sounds like you got a good deal. I hope that once you receive it and shoot it that you'll tell us how much you like it. :)
 
CVA

Conn. Valley has been around for Years. They provide a budget friendly option for beginners. Once you are hooked, check out Track of the Wolf's page... don't drool too much!~~~

CVA uses cheap import locks for it's flinter's, they can be poorly tempered and spark weakly. Try to avoid that option

As posted in other places, Keep it CLEAN!

Enjoy
 
Got one

I built one of those from a kit back in the 1970s or so. Yes, it's a 2-piece stock and a cheap lock. But mine was/is a good plinker that was very accurate. I've since acquired nicer BP rifles, but that old CVA .45 is still around because it's a good shooter. I doubt I've shot it in 20 years, need to do that.
 
Passed on that rifle......got a different one.

This is a Thompson/Center Arms New Englander - 50 cal. Its left handed.....Im left handed......perfect. Paid $100 for it. It looks flawless on th outside.....but someone didnt take care if the bore like they should. Its kinda nasty looking....still plenty of rifling, just cruddy looking. I wont be hunting with it, just plinking for fun so I overlooked the bore.

thompsonBP.gif
 
Yeah thats the oddest part. The outside finish and the stock are utterly FLAWLESS. Not a ding, scratch or rust particle to be found.....anywhere on the outside.

Look down the bore and it looks like a war-torn Mosin Nagant bore.

Seems to me that a person meticulous enough to take care of the appearance of their firearm would also clean the bore properly......guess not.
 
They were probably cleaning it with regular gun solvent and thinking that they were taking meticulous care of it. I run into that far too often. Anyway, I've restored some horribly rusted bores in my time, one of them including the New Englander that I hunt with. If you poke around the forum a bit, you'll find many posts full of good instructions for hand lapping the bore. Pick whichever you feel most comfortable with and go to it. Once you get it all shiny inside, the pitting doesn't seem to effect accuracy any. I know mine shoots great after lapping and it was really rotten inside. Good luck and enjoy the new toy! :)
 
Another new TC New Englander, my first muzzle loader.

I just picked up my first muzzle loader, a TC new englander. Mine is right handed, but I shoot southpaw, so we'll see how things go. The bore on mine was fairly bad looking as well, as was the lock mechanism. I wandered into the LGS and saw it on the used rack priced at $70.00, so I decided to give it the once over. The bore was quite bad looking, and it only went into half-cock and full-cock if held horizontally. The outside looked just fine. So, I went home and called the folkes at TC and asked them a few questions (great folks, by the way). They answered a bunch of my questions, and with that and the TC reputation in mind, I went back to make a purchase.

Since my wife and I are graduates of Dave Ramsey's "Financial Peace University" (something I recomend to just about everyone), I was not quite willing to pay the asking price for something that might not work out too well. I went up to one of the guys that I regularly deal with there, and I brought the gun home for $50.00 plus tax.

When I took the lock plate off, I found that the only piece of the mechanism that I couldn't remove or get to with a screwdriver, was the spring that allowed for engagement of the sear mechanism. The little piston on it did not want to budge, period. After soaking it with WD-40, it started to move a little, and I wound up shoving the thing all the way up into the spring housing. After repeated applications and some constant tinkering, the piston finally popped out today (about a 2 day wait).

As for the barrel, that's a different story. The shop was out of .50 cal. boar brushes (with some deer hunting still going on in this area, I wasn't too suprised at this), I went over to Bass Pro to pick up a few things to help with the cleanup. A TC cleaning kit and a new nipple latter, I was on my way (I'm not real thrilled with Bass pro, they do not have anything other than nipples for percussion cap muzzle loaders; no caps, no nipple wrenches, nothing. Everything is for 209 primed guns.) I soaked the boar of the rifle with WD-40, let it sit for about a half hour, and then went to work. Man did the boar brush look nasty when I ran it up and down the barrel a few times.

After getting some of the rust loose, put the breach in a bucket of hot, soapy water, and started cleaning. The good news is that the nipple that is on the gun was not clogged (I was shocked to find this out). I ran several patches on the jag up and down the barrel, and felt as though I got most of the crud out, got a second bucket of water, and cleaned it up a little more. Since I don't have any caps yet, I went back after it with some more WD-40, until the patches were mostly clean (I'm going to repeat the process again when I finally get a nipple wrench, hopefully then I'll get the last little bit of rust out).

Taking a look at the barrel now, it doesn't look great, but not too bad either. It is a little pitted, and some of the rifleing is warn at the muzzle, but all in all, I think I got a fairly good deal. Several friends of mine are quite anxious to shoot it, as am I.

Now for my question. Since I'm new to this (sort of, I shot a muzzle loader when I was a kid out at Philmont Scout Ranch), aside from powder (and measure), shot, patches and caps, is there anything else that I need?

Thanks,
D
 
Needed range items

1. Powder measure
2. Powder and a means to pour it into the measure
3. caps
4. proper size round ball .490 if .50cal (forget about those fancy sabot)
5. patch material, TC prelubed patchs work well for me.
6. ball starter (I consider essential)

Start with smaller loads, heavy loads don't shoot as accurate. Start with 50gr and work up to 80gr if you want. Higher than that makes more velocity but less accuracy. IMHO I prefer one well place shot pushed by 60gr of powder than a near miss that was running 3 times the speed of sound.

You did a good thing in getting a used rifle back into service. A friend of mine ended up with a cap lock TC Hawken .50cal for the low low price of helping someone move. As with most Free items it had some serious issues. The gun had been shot some years before and not cleaned. The bore looked like the bottom of a river barge and the lock was not functional. The owner and I both considered it only a wall hanger with the condition of the bore.

Then,,,, the flint lock bug bit me and I started reading and learning all I could gather on the subject. Luckily for me I live within a couple hours of the Logcabin Shop. I took this wall hanger up to them and see what could be done to convert it to flint lock. In the end, rather than $350 worth of parts to convert the cap, they sold me a good used flint lock Hawken for $250 that I'm very happy with.

They also recommend trying to cleaning up the cap and see if it would shoot.

I did as you describe with cleaning brush. Lots of scrubing and removed plenty of rust and misc debris from the bore. I tried shooting it and could not get it to group on the paper anywhere at 25 yards. I assumed it was indeed ruined and good only for decoration.

One rainy afternoon armed with advice from the logcabin shop, and abso-bluming-lootly nothing to loose I went after the bore with new vigor. Using a proper tight jag and many a patch with comet cleanser. Yep Abrasive, Very abrasive. Basically I lapped the bore. I scrubbed and scrubbed then scrubbed some more. Amazed at how much crud I was getting out of the bore. Eventually the dish soap and comet was staying white rather than turning rusty. I returned to the range to confirm the bore was in fact ruined. The range had just replaced the backboards. Nice being able to staple your target to a NEW piece of plywood. Using a 50ft pistol target at 25 yards,
1st shot, 4:00 just outside the black. Hey, not bad.
2nd shot, lost ??? What? I missed the back board? No way.
I slid a piece of paper behind the one hole in the paper at 4:00
3rd shot, you guessed it, slightly enlarged the single hole in the paper at 4:00 and a hole in my piece of Liar's paper.
From here I went on and sighted in at 50 yards, At the end of the day I could easily place shots in the black of a 50ft pistol target out to 50 yards.

I clean it up and take it back to the owner with the good news, even brought him a target. He said thanks then put it back up on the wall from where it came.

At least the next person to take it down will be happy with the results.
 
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