Alllen Bundy
Member
Anyone that owns a Sig knows that replacement parts are very expensive. But the cost of some of those parts is abusive. Take for instance the coiled spring pin that Sig uses to hold the extractor in place on the P365 series. It is a nothing special coiled spring pin. But in the Sig plastic bag it can cost $6.00 each or more.
I wasn't sure what strength was necessary, so I bought a strongest coiled spring pins available from Grainger. I also decided to use the 420 alloy stainless steel coiled spring pin.
Spring Pin, Coiled, Stainless Steel, 420, 3/32 in Outside Dia., 1/2 in Fastener Length, Double Shear Strength 1,150 lb - PK 50 $7.51
That works out to 15.002 cents each. That 15 cents is REALLY going to break my budget!
Grainger also sells a steel version:
Spring Pin, Coiled, Steel, Spring Steel, Plain, 3/32 in Outside Dia., 1/2 in Fastener Length, Double Shear Strength 1,150 lb - PK 100 $10.19.
That works out to 10.19 cents each.
For someone that is not mechanically inclined and not capable of complete disassembly and reassembly of their firearm, a CLP is the only reasonable option for cleaning and lubricating some inaccessible areas of their firearm.
But there is no question that a separate cleaner and separate lubricant performs better. But that requires the complete disassembly, cleaning, relubrication, and reassembly. I will not use a CLP as I am quite capable of complete disassembly and reassembly of my P365X. Removing the coiled spring pin that holds the extractor in place, cleaning, relubing, and reassembly, is just part of my cleaning process.
I also need to remove the extractor to polish the leading edge of the extractor claw and to polish the trailing edge of the extractor claw. This polishing improves reliability.
It's generally advised that you always use a NEW coiled spring pin. If you mangle the coiled spring pin like Sig does I can understand why Sig recommends always using a new coiled spring pin!!!
The coiled spring pin on top came out of my P365. Sig mangled the spring pin so badly that it wasn't even driven all of the way inward as was intended by design.
The lower coiled spring pin is one that I installed in and then removed from my P365. Whose workmanship looks better to you?
I did not have the correct diameter pin punch. So I grabbed a #44 drill bit, used a diamond whetstone to grind the butt end of the drill bit flat, carefully deburred the edges at a 45° angle, and then stoned the cutting edge flat.
I used a lightweight soft faced hammer to strike the drill bit to drive the coiled spring pin outward. It really doesn't take much effort. Only LIGHT tapping is required. I laid the slide over a roll of duct tape so that there was room underneath for the coiled spring pin to fall out.
I used a lightweight soft faced hammer to drive the coiled spring pin inward to get it started and then used a 1/8" diameter pin punch to drive the coiled spring pin home. And by driving I mean LIGHT tapping.
The 1/16" diameter pin punch that is typically included in a pin punch set is too small IMHO. A 5/64" diameter pin punch would be more ideal, but is difficult to find. A 3/32" diameter pin punch is a lot easier to find and with some wet or dry sandpaper or a diamond hone you could easily reduce it's diameter from 0.0.9375" to about 0.086" while you were listening to a podcast.
Edit: You may not find a 5/64" diameter pin punch at Home Depot, but you can order them on Amazon and at other palces.
Ideally you should have a pin punch with a diameter of about 0.086" diameter to drive out the coiled spring pin. But when installing, to drive the coiled spring pin down to the correct level, a 1/8" diameter pin punch is recommended.
They do make special pin punches, with a small protrusion in the middle, to help keep the punch centered in the roll pin while driving the roll pin in place . But the hole in a coiled spring in is NOT centered and these special punches do not appear to be applicable for driving coiled spring pins.
I'm not sure if you can buy them, but you can drill a recess into the end of a pin punch so that it will hold the coil spring pin in place while you start driving the coiled spring pin into the hole in the slide. Then you finish driving the coiled spring pin in place with an 1/8" diameter pin punch.
Edit: I just saw on Amazon that you can buy what are called "Hollow End Starters" for starting roll pins and coiled spring pins. You can also find them at gun supply shops.
I wasn't sure what strength was necessary, so I bought a strongest coiled spring pins available from Grainger. I also decided to use the 420 alloy stainless steel coiled spring pin.
Spring Pin, Coiled, Stainless Steel, 420, 3/32 in Outside Dia., 1/2 in Fastener Length, Double Shear Strength 1,150 lb - PK 50 $7.51
That works out to 15.002 cents each. That 15 cents is REALLY going to break my budget!
Grainger also sells a steel version:
Spring Pin, Coiled, Steel, Spring Steel, Plain, 3/32 in Outside Dia., 1/2 in Fastener Length, Double Shear Strength 1,150 lb - PK 100 $10.19.
That works out to 10.19 cents each.
For someone that is not mechanically inclined and not capable of complete disassembly and reassembly of their firearm, a CLP is the only reasonable option for cleaning and lubricating some inaccessible areas of their firearm.
But there is no question that a separate cleaner and separate lubricant performs better. But that requires the complete disassembly, cleaning, relubrication, and reassembly. I will not use a CLP as I am quite capable of complete disassembly and reassembly of my P365X. Removing the coiled spring pin that holds the extractor in place, cleaning, relubing, and reassembly, is just part of my cleaning process.
I also need to remove the extractor to polish the leading edge of the extractor claw and to polish the trailing edge of the extractor claw. This polishing improves reliability.
It's generally advised that you always use a NEW coiled spring pin. If you mangle the coiled spring pin like Sig does I can understand why Sig recommends always using a new coiled spring pin!!!
The coiled spring pin on top came out of my P365. Sig mangled the spring pin so badly that it wasn't even driven all of the way inward as was intended by design.
The lower coiled spring pin is one that I installed in and then removed from my P365. Whose workmanship looks better to you?
I did not have the correct diameter pin punch. So I grabbed a #44 drill bit, used a diamond whetstone to grind the butt end of the drill bit flat, carefully deburred the edges at a 45° angle, and then stoned the cutting edge flat.
I used a lightweight soft faced hammer to strike the drill bit to drive the coiled spring pin outward. It really doesn't take much effort. Only LIGHT tapping is required. I laid the slide over a roll of duct tape so that there was room underneath for the coiled spring pin to fall out.
I used a lightweight soft faced hammer to drive the coiled spring pin inward to get it started and then used a 1/8" diameter pin punch to drive the coiled spring pin home. And by driving I mean LIGHT tapping.
The 1/16" diameter pin punch that is typically included in a pin punch set is too small IMHO. A 5/64" diameter pin punch would be more ideal, but is difficult to find. A 3/32" diameter pin punch is a lot easier to find and with some wet or dry sandpaper or a diamond hone you could easily reduce it's diameter from 0.0.9375" to about 0.086" while you were listening to a podcast.
Edit: You may not find a 5/64" diameter pin punch at Home Depot, but you can order them on Amazon and at other palces.
Ideally you should have a pin punch with a diameter of about 0.086" diameter to drive out the coiled spring pin. But when installing, to drive the coiled spring pin down to the correct level, a 1/8" diameter pin punch is recommended.
They do make special pin punches, with a small protrusion in the middle, to help keep the punch centered in the roll pin while driving the roll pin in place . But the hole in a coiled spring in is NOT centered and these special punches do not appear to be applicable for driving coiled spring pins.
I'm not sure if you can buy them, but you can drill a recess into the end of a pin punch so that it will hold the coil spring pin in place while you start driving the coiled spring pin into the hole in the slide. Then you finish driving the coiled spring pin in place with an 1/8" diameter pin punch.
Edit: I just saw on Amazon that you can buy what are called "Hollow End Starters" for starting roll pins and coiled spring pins. You can also find them at gun supply shops.
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