Leading issue 9 mm Luger Any help ?

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Zap01!

Zap01!

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Hi new to the form Kind of new to reloading as well
I purchased some Dg bullets for my 9mm Lugar they are cast bullets powder coated 115 gr rn bb Size to .356. I’m using accurate #5 5.2 gr. Which is starting load from my Lee manual Getting severe leading I believe Had lots of lead come out of the barrel From my understanding you’re not supposed to have any . when cleaning took me a while to get most of it out Only shot 50 rounds I did some reading about different barrels for the 9 mm and made a makeshift slug for my barrel The best I can tell my barrel is .355 Not sure what I am doing wrong any help would be appreciated thanks
 
.355 is standard for 9mm. I've seen .356 advertised for .38 Super.

Cast bullets are not the best for 9mm pistols, regardless of sizing.

I gave up cast bullets and now use plated bullets for 9mm shooting. Berry's and Xtreme have both worked for me.
 
I strongly suspect the coating!
What are you shooting them in?

My S&W’s have .357” groove diameter bores. They shoot extremely well with plain cast bullets using SPG lube.
To date I’ve only used Harbor Freight powder coat which doesn’t have the best reputation, but has not given any problems to me. I’ve even shot 93gr .311” Lee RN to 2100fps in a .30Carbine with no leading and better accuracy than the rifle exhibits with factory FMJ.

I’ve heard complaints of bullets with “other” coatings giving poor results.

Not firing them in a carbine are you?
 
In my opinion you should order lead bullets with standard nominal diameter of .355 and standard nominal weight of 124gr.
Nominal .356 or .357 bullets should be used to achieve good accuracy in a slightly worn 9mm barrel.
In any case, the leading of the barrel is difficult to avoid. You should choose hard cast bullets or lead painted bullets to decrease the phenomenon.
 
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Cast bullets should be AT LEAST .001” LARGER than bore diameter.
With revolvers, it’s the THROAT that’s the problem, and bullets should fit the throats, and throats .001-.003” larger than the barrel.

Many of the newer “Plastic Fantastic” 9mm’s from over seas have barrels with practically no throat and often exhibit leading and accuracy issues with cast lead bullets.

You’re actually at the wrong forum for good cast bullet advice.
I suggest you go to www.gunloads.com/castboolits for top advice on all things related to cast bullets.

Also, RMR offers MATCH grade jacketed bullets as cheap or cheaper than most casters. Besides, he’s a member here and will answer any questions. He also answers his phone! And gives a THR discount.
www.rmrbullets.com

ps: slug your bore! Berettas and Taurus are notorious for 0.358” bores. My Taurus PT92 was astonishing accurate with a .359” bullet.
 
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Not firing them in a carbine are you?[/QUOTE]
Taurus G3
 
GooseGestapo said:
Cast bullets should be AT LEAST .001” LARGER than bore diameter.
With revolvers, it’s the THROAT that’s the problem, and bullets should fit the throats, and throats .001-.003” larger than the barrel.

Many of the newer “Plastic Fantastic” 9mm’s from over seas have barrels with practically no throat and often exhibit leading and accuracy issues with cast lead bullets.

You’re actually at the wrong forum for good cast bullet advice.
I suggest you go to www.gunloads.com/castboolits for top advice on all things related to cast bullets.

Also, RMR offers MATCH grade jacketed bullets as cheap or cheaper than most casters. Besides, he’s a member here and will answer any questions. He also answers his phone! And gives a THR discount.
www.rmrbullets.com

ps: slug your bore! Berettas and Taurus are notorious for 0.358” bores. My Taurus PT92 was astonishing accurate with a .359” bullet.
Click to expand...
Thank you
 
Leading isn't that big of a deal. If the bullets are accurate and you like the price buy some Chore Boy, wrap a little around an old .22 caliber bore brush, and give your bore 4-5 swipes while cleaning. Adds about 30 seconds to your cleaning time.
 
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I have the lee lo
frogfurr said:
Leading isn't that big of a deal. If the bullets are accurate and you like the price buy some Chore Boy, wrap a little around an old .22 caliber bore brush, and give your bore 4-5 swipes while cleaning. Adds about 30 seconds to your cleaning time.
Click to expand...
im loading for my ever day carry just for plinking rounds chore boy won’t hart my Stainless barrel Will it Because I have 1000+ of these bullets
 
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Zap01! said:
I have the lee lo

im loading for my ever day carry just for plinking rounds chore boy won’t hart my Chrome barrel Will it Because I have 1000+ of these bullets
Click to expand...
As mentioned already, I suspect the bullet coating, and have never heard of Dg bullets.
Can you post a link for Dg bullets??
Edit: nevermind, I found it.
Have you emailed Dg about this problem?
I would, if it were me,
jmo
Edit2: read this at Dg
" The benefits to shooting are numerous and include: The coating molecularly bonds to the bullet totally encapsulating it. The coating prevents lead-to-bore contact. Much less smoke compared with traditional lubed bullets."
I do the hammer test on all bullets I buy:
Smash/flatten a bullet with a hammer, it should NOT show any separation of the coating or lead core.
Heat a bullet with a propane torch and the lead should run out leaving an empty shell of the coating.
jmo,
.
 
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243winxb said:
I load cast for two G3C Taurus. Bullet diameter is .3562" after sizing to fit the barrels .3568" throat. Larger is a problem.

The loaded rounds COL has to be short so the bullets dont jam into the rifling. My reload on the left. View attachment 1075879

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?media/albums/taurus-g3c-9mm-luger.317/&page=2
Click to expand...
I shot all the Ammo I had made but I did notice if I took my barrel out and stuck a factory FM J in the barrel it’ set lower than the ones I made Maybe my overall length was wrong That would Jam into the rifling like you said
 
Zap01! said:
I shot all the Ammo I had made but I did notice if I took my barrel out and stuck a factory FM J in the barrel it’ set lower than the ones I made Maybe my overall length was wrong That would Jam into the rifling like you said
Click to expand...
You need to do just that, plunk test your reloads in the barrel (removed from the gun) at the press during the reloading process.
That way you can adjust the dies depending on the results of this test.
jmo,
.
 
Tilos said:
As mentioned already, I suspect the bullet coating, and have never heard of Dg bullets.
Can you post a link for Dg bullets??
Edit: nevermind, I found it.
Have you emailed Dg about this problem?
I would, if it were me,
jmo
Edit2: read this at Dg
" The benefits to shooting are numerous and include: The coating molecularly bonds to the bullet totally encapsulating it. The coating prevents lead-to-bore contact. Much less smoke compared with traditional lubed bullets."
I do the hammer test on all bullets I buy:
Smash/flatten a bullet with a hammer, it should NOT show any separation of the coating or lead core.
Heat a bullet with a propane torch and the lead should run out leaving an empty shell of the coating.
jmo,
.
Click to expand...
I would call that a win lol I would call that a win
 

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Tilos said:
You need to do just that, plunk test your reloads in the barrel (removed from the gun) at the press during the reloading process.
That way you can adjust the dies depending on the results of this test.
jmo,
.
Click to expand...
Thanks I will
 
What you might try is upping your load. You stated your load is the starting load, you may have to increase it to get the bullet to obturate and seal the bore to prevent the gas blow by from vaporizing the base of the bullet and leaving deposits in the barrel.
 
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