Cartridge Gauge NOOB question…

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Buzznrose

Buzznrose

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Okay, this is a serious rookie question but I’m gonna ask it. If you don’t want to give me a simple answer, no worries.

I’m getting ready to branch out into .40 and 10MM loading. Do I need to buy both cartridge gauges for the “plunk test” or can I get by with just one? If just one, which?

I totally understand each has different COL’s and powders…just looking to know if I need both or if just one will work.

Thanks.
 
I use the 10mm for both 10mm and 40. Of course, the .40 falls down inside, so you have to make mark inside where it should stop.
 
A plunk test is done in the barrel you're going to shoot in; if you own several, it's done in the tightest/shortest.

Unless you do the work of verifying that the cartridge gauge you bought is tighter/shorter than your tightest barrel, it's useless.

Buy an ogive comparitor, make good notes, and you'll never miss the cartridge gauge.
 
Buzznrose said:
I’ve been doing that but I ended up buying a Hornady 9MM gauge and it’s pretty quick and easy. I like it better.
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Guys that Guage every round for competitions use a 100 round block as a go no go. The "plunk test" is a process for testing for most of us and has a certain meaning. When plunking your testing oal for bullet clearance.
 
AJC1 said:
Guys that Guage every round for competitions use a 100 round block as a go no go. The "plunk test" is a process for testing for most of us and has a certain meaning. When plunking your testing oal for bullet clearance.
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I actually do both. I plunk in the barrel at the beginning of development, but after I've verified my OAL is good for all the guns I intend to use it in, I don't plunk again unless something changes. I use the case gauge during production because it is faster and I do check every round. This has worked well for me.
 
I have a case gauge for all my semi auto pistol and rifle rounds and for my 300 win mag. It's often suggested to just use your barrel. I do do that but most of my pistols have suppressor attachment devices on the end of the barrel so it's kind of a PIA to use the barrel for every round. The gauge is just much handier and faster. For semi auto rifles, I think they're essential for my reloading process. The slotted ones are the best IMO because they let you see where the problem is. Very handy. The 10mm gauge wouldn't tell you if a .40 case was too long and if it happened to be too long, you could definitely cause a catastrophic kaboom as the .40 case mouth got shoved in past the rim of the headspace lip (is that even what it's called? I don't know.) on the inside of your barrel. So I think you need one of each.
 
You don't "need" either one, but they're handy, so if you want to go that route, you need one of each.

I load a bunch of pistol calibers, and the only one I use a gauge for is 9MM, where I gauge all of my fired cases and scrap those that fail, but after that I don't gauge the loaded rounds.
 
AJC1 said:
Guys that Guage every round for competitions use a 100 round block as a go no go. The "plunk test" is a process for testing for most of us and has a certain meaning. When plunking your testing oal for bullet clearance.
Click to expand...
I also plunk to make sure the bell has been adequately but not excessively removed on SA pistol rounds.
 
Walkalong said:
I load a bunch of pistol calibers, and the only one I use a gauge for is 9MM, where I gauge all of my fired cases and scrap those that fail, but after that I don't gauge the loaded rounds.
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I use a case gauge for sized 10mm cases also, it makes things easier at that stage as to find the ones that need a ‘lil busting….. rather find them before they get primed and loaded……..meh, works for me…
 
Soonerpesek said:
I use a case gauge for sized 10mm cases also, it makes things easier at that stage as to find the ones that need a ‘lil busting….. rather find them before they get primed and loaded……..meh, works for me…
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Does 10 have the same unsupported chamber issue... I thought that was mostly a 9 and 40 issue.
 
I've shot some Armscor in my G20 gen4 that I had to run thru my bulge buster or they wouldn't chamber in my RIA 1911. So it may not be as "Unsupported " as the 9mm and .40, but it's still a loose chamber.
 
AJC1 said:
Does 10 have the same unsupported chamber issue... I thought that was mostly a 9 and 40 issue.
Click to expand...

In a 1911 and a GP 100 there are no issues, but some warmish loads thru the Banshee makes ‘em a little big. Mostly noticed with Federal brass. It happened with one session, so I just check them all now……
 
Sorry in advance if you already know this about gauges. No insult intended.

I’ll let experienced folks explain more but if you decide to buy a gauge just make sure you know what you’re buying and why—what type of gauge.

Case or cartridge is one obvious difference but not the only one. Min & max is another but min & max what?

And to find out what type of gauge I suggest going to the manufacturer’s website to find out and not relying solely on Midway’s or Brownell’s description. And be careful here too! Even the manufacturers are sloppy (or at least not newb friendly) with their descriptions. Multiple names are often used for the same gauge.

Here are three 45ACP I have bought—a Hornady “Case Gauge”, a Wilson “Pistol Max Gauge”, and an RCBS “Chamber Case Length Gauge”.

Why three? Because I didn’t know what I was buying nor why. $100 bucks or so and I pretty much only use the Wilson.

EVERYTHING I’ve ever loaded passes the RCBS…but won’t plunk in a pistol, but fine in the gauge. Never use it.

The Hornady was the first one I bought. It obviously isn’t for completed cartridges but I didn’t pay close enough attention when I bought it. (I say obviously because the gauge is way shorter than a cartridge—pic does not show it)

The Wilson is the best for me. I use as I size every case and complete every cartridge.

A05A9D37-D7DD-4BA1-A7EA-8816FC303698.jpeg
 
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CQB45ACP said:
Sorry in advance if you already know this about gauges. No insult intended.

I’ll let experienced folks explain more but if you decide to buy a gauge just make sure you know what you’re buying and why—what type of gauge.

Case or cartridge is one obvious difference but not the only one. Min & max is another but min & max what?

And to find out what type of gauge I suggest going to the manufacturer’s website to find out and not relying solely on Midway’s or Brownell’s description. And be careful here too! Even the manufacturers are sloppy (or at least not newb friendly) with their descriptions. Multiple names are often used for the same gauge.

Here are three 45ACP I have bought—a Hornady “Case Gauge”, a Wilson “Pistol Max Gauge”, and an RCBS “Chamber Case Length Gauge”.

Why three? Because I didn’t know what I was buying nor why. $100 bucks or so and I pretty much only use the Wilson.

EVERYTHING I’ve ever loaded passes the RCBS…but won’t plunk in a pistol, but fine in the gauge. Never use it.

The Hornady was the first one I bought. It obviously isn’t for completed cartridges but I didn’t pay close enough attention when I bought it. (I say obviously because the gauge is way shorter than a cartridge—pic does not show it)

The Wilson is the best for me. I use as I size every case and complete every cartridge.

View attachment 1113624
Click to expand...

I bought the Hornady. They claim it is a “go-no go” gauge. You are right…it is shorter than a loaded case. It is the first and only one I’ve bought.

I was having issues with my ammo in some guns. I was using a Glock 26 barrel for my plunking. Most of my 9MM’s are Glocks. Some would shot the ammo no problem but some had seating issues.

I’d checked OAL carefully and all were good. But the case gauge showed me issues with some of my rounds and the roll crimp I was applying. So I gauged all my ammo I’d loaded and separated the stuff that didn’t seat in the gauge.

then I took a fresh brass and sized it, then gauged it. Then I reset my crimp and seating die until the cases set properly in the gauge and I had my OAL.
Then, I went and recrimped all the loaded rounds that didn’t seat and they all seat properly now. I have them separated so when I shoot them, I’ll know they are done.

I plan to use this gauge from now on to confirm my cases for future batches.

I did look at the Wilson gauges and plan to buy their gauge going forward. Thanks for that tip.
 
Buzznrose said:
Okay, this is a serious rookie question but I’m gonna ask it. If you don’t want to give me a simple answer, no worries.

I’m getting ready to branch out into .40 and 10MM loading. Do I need to buy both cartridge gauges for the “plunk test” or can I get by with just one? If just one, which?

I totally understand each has different COL’s and powders…just looking to know if I need both or if just one will work.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
You can plunk both in the 10mm one for chamber dimensional conformity, if you want to check OAL, you'll have to buy two. I strongly recommend a gauge over barrel plunking. Barrel plunking is the path to the dark side...it only tells you your rounds fit in one single barrel. That means if you load up a few hundred (or a few thousand).....then buy a new .40....guess what? Decent gauges can be had for well under 50 bucks...very cheap insurance, especially with rounds like 40 and 10....where you are very likely to come across bulged brass that doesn't size completely. In fact, if you are doing any numbers at all, I'd spring for the EGW 50 or 100 hole gauge. Save your gun and your fingers;-)
 
EricBu said:
You can plunk both in the 10mm one for chamber conformity. I strongly recommend a gauge over barrel plunking. Barrel plunking is the path to the dark side...it only tells you your rounds fit in one single barrel. That means if you load up a few hundred (or a few thousand).....then buy a new .40....guess what? Decent gauges can be had for well under 50 bucks...very cheap insurance, especially with rounds like 40 and 10....where you are very likely to come across bulged brass that doesn't size completely. In fact, if you are doing any numbers at all, I'd spring for the EGW 50 or 100 hole gauge. Save your gun and your fingers;-)
Click to expand...
Let me push back a little with a little tale of woe.

I have on hand many hundred rounds of 45acp Acme 230gr RN that I can shoot out of exactly one of four 1911s I own.

Why? Because I plunked samples in just that one gun and relied on my three gauges for all the others. In fact most rounds wouldn't pass my Wilson gauge so I mashed the crap out of them with a Lee Bulge Buster/FCD.

Still will only plunk in one pistol.

So, I say, gauge ALL cartridges and plunk multiple samples in ALL pistols you intend to shoot.
 
CQB45ACP said:
Let me push back a little with a little tale of woe.

I have on hand many hundred rounds of 45acp Acme 230gr RN that I can shoot out of exactly one of four 1911s I own.

Why? Because I plunked samples in just that one gun and relied on my three gauges for all the others. In fact most rounds wouldn't pass my Wilson gauge so I mashed the crap out of them with a Lee Bulge Buster/FCD.

Still will only plunk in one pistol.

So, I say, gauge ALL cartridges and plunk multiple samples in ALL pistols you intend to shoot.
Click to expand...


I have 17 9mm's, lol (I think, might be more now). Plunkin' ain't gonna happen in each. I personally have never had any problem at all with a round that gauged correctly not firing in any gun I owned or that it was shot out of. If I did have such a problem....unless the gun was something unique or collectible.......it would have been rebarreled or sent to the smith. That's just me though.
 
I have had no good results with cartridge gauges. First was a 45 ACP gauge. I spent waay too much time chasing .005" of the case sticking out of the gauge (double sizing brass, triple checking OAL and diameters, trying different headstamps, etc.). All handloads plunked in my 3, 45 ACP guns and shot quite well. Skipped gauging from that point on. The second was a 30-06 gauge (when I got my Garand I thought I needed a gauge). Same problem, chased reasons for rounds not chambering in gauge. Long story short (after buying new dies, sorting brass by headstamp and date, even tried new shell holders and trying different methods) I asked on the CMP forum and got an answer; "Do they chamber?". Yep chambered and shot OK. Later after continued searching I noticed the rim was bent about .007-.009" stopping the round from gauging. It turned out that with certain handloads the case was hitting the OP Rod hump as it was ejected.

I don't know where the gauges are, in a drawer somewhere, unused for many years and my best gauge is the firearm's barrel...
 
EricBu said:
I have 17 9mm's, lol (I think, might be more now). Plunkin' ain't gonna happen in each. I personally have never had any problem at all with a round that gauged correctly not firing in any gun I owned or that it was shot out of. If I did have such a problem....unless the gun was something unique or collectible.......it would have been rebarreled or sent to the smith. That's just me though.
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Mine are a Wilson, Les Baer, and Ed Brown. Works in an Alchemy
 
EricBu said:
I have 17 9mm's, lol (I think, might be more now). Plunkin' ain't gonna happen in each. I personally have never had any problem at all with a round that gauged correctly not firing in any gun I owned or that it was shot out of. If I did have such a problem....unless the gun was something unique or collectible.......it would have been rebarreled or sent to the smith. That's just me though.
Click to expand...
I only have 5, 9mms but I determined which gun has the "tightest" chamber and use that one for plunking. If a round plunks in my Masada it will plunk in my other pistols fine...
 
mdi said:
I have had no good results with cartridge gauges. First was a 45 ACP gauge. I spent waay too much time chasing .005" of the case sticking out of the gauge (double sizing brass, triple checking OAL and diameters, trying different headstamps, etc.). All handloads plunked in my 3, 45 ACP guns and shot quite well. Skipped gauging from that point on. The second was a 30-06 gauge (when I got my Garand I thought I needed a gauge). Same problem, chased reasons for rounds not chambering in gauge. Long story short (after buying new dies, sorting brass by headstamp and date, even tried new shell holders and trying different methods) I asked on the CMP forum and got an answer; "Do they chamber?". Yep chambered and shot OK. Later after continued searching I noticed the rim was bent about .007-.009" stopping the round from gauging. It turned out that with certain handloads the case was hitting the OP Rod hump as it was ejected.

I don't know where the gauges are, in a drawer somewhere, unused for many years and my best gauge is the firearm's barrel...
Click to expand...
Had to reread first sentence a couple of times:) That’s a shame. When you find them send them my way.
 
1. My pistol brass, save for 357, is of undetermined age/origin/abuse.
2. Altogether, I only load ~half a dozen~ or so different calibers.
I have gauges for all my calibers, 38 and 357 included.
 
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