Can you use syn 2 cycle oil in place of Mobil 1

I guess you can use KY jelly if you want too.
The question is, how much dang real gun oil are you going to use anyway.

You can buy a fair size bottle of CLP or Rem-Oil for less then a Big-Mac combo at Micky-D's.

Then, you won't stink like a lawn mower for two days after you shoot & clean your guns.

rc

The whole point of using motor oil for your guns is to use leftover dribs from changing your car oil. I can't see buying ANY motor oil just to use it on guns. I bought a can of Triflow spray at the hardware store for about $6. I got an excellent gun oil in an easy to apply container. Ten years and a LOT of gun lubes later I had to buy another can. I don't really see the point of trying to "save" much compared to that.

Used motor oil is a known carcinogen. Not even a good idea to change your oil without gloves. So I hope folks are not using it for gun oil, rather whatever is leftover from filling. If you must. Testing has shown that Mobile 1 is very poor at preventing corrosion. So what's the point in using motor oil on your guns if it doesn't also protect it???

BreakFree CLP is cheap and readily available. I can't even remember when I bought the bottle I'm using now.

There are a lot of things you can lube a gun with. They don't have oil pans, oil pumps, oil filters, or grease fittings so a lot of motor and machinery lubricating ideas just don't apply. About anything will work as long as you put it on the gun. Lubes that "bond to the metal" or "penetrate the pores" are products of the ad agency, not the refinery. Although some lubes adhere better than others, regular application is the key.

I am at present lubing guns with FP10 obtained in a shooting match goodie bag. The rest of my stuff is in storage while my new house is under construction.

I have maybe a pint left in the big can of Army surplus "oil, lubricating, light" that is about the same consistency as FP10 or Breakfree without the Teflon suspension. I thickened some of it with the residual Lucas Oil Stabilizer (similar appearance to STP) after an oil change in my truck. I think I will put most of my Militec 1 in the rest. That was originally an oil additive before they discovered they could sell it by the ounce as gun oil.

I have a couple of ounces of Mobil 1 drained out of the cans after a friend changed the oil in his truck.

I have half a can of refrigeration oil that the mechanic said had been open to the air too long to put in an air conditioner. That is a nice clear, slick, light oil.

I have some stinky Ballistol that the guy who got me into BPCR recommended.

If heavier lube is indicated, I have some Gunslick graphite grease and RIG that the local store used to throw in with the purchase of a gun and some Lubriplate from somewhere. Also a jar of Ponsoness Warren STOS and some molybdenum sulfide doped grease that came out of a big drum used on a farmer's cotton picker.

It all works here and there and I won't need to BUY "gun oil" for a long time.

I have half a can of refrigeration oil that the mechanic said had been open to the air too long to put in an air conditioner. That is a nice clear, slick, light oil.

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I'd use something besides this. A/C oil is intensely hygroscopic, so expect rust if you put it on a gun.

As to the carcinogen aspect, not all oil is thus made. Oils from Hydrotex contain no known carcinogens. The lead tribologist there is also one of the company principals, and had his 1st wife die of cancer. So, he refuses to use any chemicals in the oils/greases they produce that will cause it.

Just pick up a 4 oz. bottle of Breakfree CLP at the next gun show. You won't find anything better and it will last you a long time. CraigC, I think the reference to "left over dribs" refers to what is left in the bottle of NEW oil you're putting in your car, not the used stuff from the crankcase.

CraigC, I think the reference to "left over dribs" refers to what is left in the bottle of NEW oil you're putting in your car, not the used stuff from the crankcase.

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Just checkin'. I have heard folks on other forums talk about using used motor oil so you never can tell.

Automotive oils are outstanding lubricants. Hundreds of millions have been spent on automotive lubricant research. About 2 cents on firearm lubrication.

I use Mobil One and other automotive oils on my firearms. What ever is cheapest. Work great as a lubricant, rust protection is better than nothing.

If you want rust protection look for rust inhibitors which are not good lubricants.

CLP is fine, just too expensive.

I do believe that for years most gun oils were nothing but straight mineral oil, no additives at all. The better stuff is simply repacked industrial oils. Go look at the Grainger catalog to see what I mean.

I would not recommend used motor oil. That has absorbed all those nasty heavy metals in your engine, plus all the exhaust blow by.

A bottle of Mobil One was $3.64 at Walmart. Tech 2000 was $2.50. It is not like the cost of a quart is going to break anyone's bank.

Too expensive??? I maintain over 80guns, shoot nearly every day and I can't remember buying the 4oz bottle of CLP I'm using. I 'might' buy an aerosol can of RemOil every two years. Even if you clean every gun every time you shoot it, the cost of gun oil is insignificant and if you can afford to do that much shooting, then you can afford a bottle of CLP every couple years.

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=7&t=485547

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=7&t=502758&page=1

proof not hearsay..Motor oil did not do to well in this test.

Survival situation yes use anything you can find including ear wax and urinate on a open wound for the ammonia, but there are better products available!!

+1 CraigC

The OP asked about 2 cycle oil for lubrication, not corrosion prevention.

Bob

I thought the op asked about "lubrication".

Bob: beat me to it

I have been using Bel-Ray H1R (a quality synthetic, for two strokes) in firearms for almost two years. It is an excellent lubricant intended for high pressure, high temperature environments. A firearm is likely LESS demanding of a lubricant than the strung out two stroke engines it is designed for,

Ive never touched the motor oils for gun lubrication yet.

I always thought thinner was better. Would the 0W-30 oils be best for guns. I did a quick net search and both sites I clicked on recommended 10W-30. Since the oil is not going to get hot only the 0W or 10W rating would matter for guns.

Have any of you ever tried to start a 2-cycle ,only to find that the fuel mix has gelledd? It happens because all 2-cycle oils are designed to burn away,after lubricating the moving parts,and if they don't,they turn to sludge,and draw moisture,as well. They also draw dirt,and carbon(i.e.powder residue),which could cause more fouling,and harder cleaning.Believe me,after 15 years of repairing outdoor power eqpt,Iv'e NEVER seen a clean 2-cycle!I would advise 3 in one oil,before ANY motor oil! 2-cycle oil,left open,will,eventually,thicken on its own,and if it's on metal,it will draw moisture!

Here we go with the oil depate again, this has been hashed and rehashed over and over again with the end result being that those that like the small bottles selling for $8.00 work just fine for them. Those that use Mobil 1, Redline, or another synthic oil at $5.00 to $10.00 a quart are perfectly satisified with the results they get and are also happy.

Only suggestion I have is do not use used oil of any kind. A lubricating oil will do just that, lube. Not rocket science, and with the advances with all oils, most if not all will work.

Anyone out there can show us a firearm worn out from using any quality oil made for lubrication? If so lets see it.

I do know that for mest results you should stay away from anything petroleum based. Those oils like to attract dirt and will evaporate faster. They work fine in car engines but guns are a slightly different animal especially if you are storing them for a time.

CraigC said:

Too expensive??? I maintain over 80guns, shoot nearly every day and I can't remember buying the 4oz bottle of CLP I'm using. I 'might' buy an aerosol can of RemOil every two years. Even if you clean every gun every time you shoot it, the cost of gun oil is insignificant and if you can afford to do that much shooting, then you can afford a bottle of CLP every couple years.

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Simple Question,

Do you live at the range?
Is your house right at the 200 yard range so you can just open a window at any time and fire-away?

I do know that for mest results you should stay away from anything petroleum based. Those oils like to attract dirt and will evaporate faster. They work fine in car engines but guns are a slightly different animal especially if you are storing them for a time.

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As opposed to using what?

As opposed to using what?

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In other words, something silicone based or a synthetic oil like is being discussed here tend to better for firearms because they do not congeal or evaporate as quickly.

WD40 and 3 in 1 is the best.

In other words, something silicone based or a synthetic oil like is being discussed here tend to better for firearms because they do not congeal or evaporate as quickly.

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Hmmm, hard to figure that out as most synthetics are petroleum based. Silicon is good, but doesn't stick around very long at all.

Oils from Hydrotex contain no known carcinogens.

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Hardly matters.

It will contain all sorts of compounds after it has been in a running engine for a VERY short time.