For all you who use Mobil-1 to lubricate.....

[Myles]

Wow, what are you using that it has to be dripping in motor oil to run? Sounds like a design flaw in the machinery.

All I've ever used for 20 years is an extremely light coating of oil only for rust protection. For lubrication I use graphite on the rails, moving parts, and pivot points.

 

[twice barrel]

Well, after reading post after post, claim after claim....I finally mixed up some Ed's Red to clean with and bought my first quart of full synthetic motor oil to lube my guns & presses with.

The Ed's Red seems ok but its no Marksman's Choice when it comes to lead removal. But it sure is cheaper and some Chore Boy strips handle the leading.

I cannot tell any difference in my guns with the full synthetic oil over 3-n-1 oil, Hoppes Gun Oil, or any other petroleum based motor oil. I do know the full synthetic stinks to high heaven and the Hoppes Gun Oil has the nices consistency of the one's I've tried.

But I clean my guns after every use. Occassionally if its handy I will put some white lithium grease on the rails or the slide grooves as well as the wear areas on my XDm barrel. But if its not I don't sweat it.

Now that I have the synthetic I'll continue to use it (for a very long time I imagine) on my press & guns. I'm a regular Pennzoil guy for my automobiles.

Regards,

TB

 

[EddieNFL]

I've heard a few folks swear by engine assembly lube, but knowing the intended use, I wonder how well it holds up.

 

[jimmyraythomason]

EddieNFL, what is "engine assembly lube"? I have never heard of such before.

 

[EddieNFL]

Used to lube internals when rebuilding engines. Prevents wear until oil pressure takes over.

http://www.valco-cp.com/Torco.htm

MPZ Engine Assembly Lube is an anti-wear, anti-friction lubricant with natural attraction to metal. It adheres to pre-lubricated engine parts during storage and is soluble in synthetic or petroleum oils.

 

[jimmyraythomason]

Well I guess somebody will buy it! I spent 35 years in the industry and never used anything like that. The basic assembly lube is plain ol' engine oil. I used Lubriplate 105 on camshafts and bearing shells.

 

[EddieNFL]

Most engine builders use it if the engine is going to sit on the shelf for a while. IIRC Jasper uses it.

I've heard the name Lubriplate mentioned by shooters.

 

[wishin]

what is "engine assembly lube"?.

Some auto shops use Slick-50 or STP for this too. I didn't know there was a specific lube sold for this purpose, but it doesn't surprise me.

I've used Lubriplate for many applications, including gun actions. It's good across various temps.

 

[jimmyraythomason]

I doubt most builders use it(not doubting you so don't take offense,none intended). As I said I built engines for Ford,Caterpillar,Cummins,Detroit(new and re-builds). I see this "friction reducer" engine assembly lube as just a gimmic. It probably is good to use on guns but I doubt it is any better than oil for an engine build.

 

[jimmyraythomason]

When I was building cylinder heads for Caterpillar,I used a 50/50 mix of 30w and STP oil treatment for heads that were to go into stock and not used right away. It did stay in place longer than oil alone.

 

[EddieNFL]

I doubt most builders use it(not doubting you so don't take offense,none intended). As I said I built engines for Ford,Caterpillar,Cummins,Detroit(new and re-builds). I see this "friction reducer" engine assembly lube as just a gimmic. It probably is good to use on guns but I doubt it is any better than oil for an engine build.

Not offended at all as you admitted using it. Lubriplate is sold as an engine assembly lube.

http://02c0c2a.netsolstores.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=189466

LUBRIPLATE No. 105 is a white, waterproof, NLGI No. 0, grease type lubricant possessing exceptional anti-seize properties and recommended extensively for coating all moving parts for motor assembly and rebuilding.

I suspect, in your setting, it was provided in bulk, rather than the small tube I would buy from NAPA.

 

[EddieNFL]

I've used Lubriplate for many applications, including gun actions. It's good across various temps.

Ever try it on slide rails? If so, how well does it stay in place and does it hold up over, say 500 rounds.? Thanks.

 

[benEzra]

Wow, what are you using that it has to be dripping in motor oil to run? Sounds like a design flaw in the machinery.

If it's dripping, you used too much. Surfaces being a little wet is a good thing, though, particularly with autoloaders, which have much higher metal-to-metal interface velocities than bolt or lever-actions do, and the oil also mobilizes carbon deposits, preventing them from cementing in place and allowing the action to clear the gunk. Running an AR too dry is one of the chief causes of failure to cycle, and it will lock an SKS up tight as well.

All I've ever used for 20 years is an extremely light coating of oil only for rust protection. For lubrication I use graphite on the rails, moving parts, and pivot points.

Graphite can work fine on lightly loaded steel-on-steel surfaces, but it is slightly abrasive to softer alloys, and is incompatible with aluminum (it promotes aluminum corrosion, which is why graphite lubes are typically not allowed on aircraft). Using a graphite dry lube would be problematic on an aluminum-receiver gun like an AR or an alloy-framed 3rd-gen S&W.

 

[wishin]

Ever try it on slide rails? If so, how well does it stay in place and does it hold up over, say 500 rounds.? Thanks.

Unfortunately, I've never fired that many rounds without a cleaning in between and a re-application, except in the Army. There was a grease that was issued for M-1 actions which closely resembled Lubriplate and may well have been the same thing. I don't know for sure.

 

[nyresq]

Mobil 1 V-Twin 20-50w is wht is use for lubing everything. I ha ve found though that below 20 degrees my AR-10 will sometimes short stroke and the light target trigger in my AR-15 DMR will get light hits every few rounds as the lube thickens up from the cold nd slows things down a bit.
I may try some 5-30w mobil 1 for the AR rifles when it gets below freezing and see how they run.
I like the heavier weight since it sticks very well to all the polished surfaces even after extended firing between cleanings (sometimes as much as 600-800 rounds)

 

[RP88]

I use pennzoil 10w30 because it's what I was able to find. I only use it for my glock and AK, namely on the slides.

 

[BURN]

as a gunsmith...I only use

CLP(BreakFree)
Miltec
hoppes
rem-oil
or Larue products....

not saying that Motor oil does not work fine...or ATF....

but I would never use powdered graphite on a gun.....

just my .02 and there are other schools of thought...

 

[berettaprofessor]

Lube Threads are just like watching car wrecks for me....I can't stay away or look away, but I'm disgusted with myself while I'm reading yet another one....

Especially another one about motor oil. Heck if it was so great, the Army would use it since the Dept. of Defense doesn't shy away from cheap and low-bidder. CLP all the way.

 

[benEzra]

Especially another one about motor oil. Heck if it was so great, the Army would use it since the Dept. of Defense doesn't shy away from cheap and low-bidder. CLP all the way.

The military issue gun oil the Army does use is not all that different from Mobil 1 or any other good synthetic oil. If you look at the spec sheets, they are quite close.

CLP is not a gun oil per se; it is a mixture of cleaning solvent and oil that is designed to serve as a bore cleaner, lubricant, and corrosion protectant. It is not as good as a lubricant as a dedicated oil, but it simplifies the military's logistics tail (only one product for general issue instead of three separate products), so that's what is used.

The best gun oils are made from the same synthetic base stocks that full synthetic motor oils are---gun oil companies buy their base stocks from oil companies, after all---they're just sold by the ounce and in a convenient sized applicator instead of by the quart, and of course they cost ten or twenty times as much on a per-ounce basis.

 

[481]

The military issue gun oil the Army does uses is not all that different from Mobil 1 or any other good synthetic oil. If you look at the spec sheets, they are quite close.

CLP is not a gun oil per se; it is a mixture of cleaning solvent and oil that is designed to serve as a bore cleaner, lubricant, and corrosion protectant. It is not as good as a lubricant as a dedicated oil, but it simplifies the military's logistics tail (only one product for general issue instead of three separate products), so that's what is used.

The best gun oils are made from the same synthetic base stocks that full synthetic motor oils are---gun oil companies buy their base stocks from oil companies, after all---they're just sold by the ounce and in a convenient sized applicator instead of by the quart, and of course they cost ten or twenty times as much on a per-ounce basis.

Good post, Ben.

The two are very close indeed: Depending upon manufacturer/source; 70% to 80% POA/Ester basestock with an "add-pack" making up the balance of the formula.

I am always amazed by the fact that the public is so suspectible to the effects of packaging and marketing when the product inside is essentially the same thing.

I've been told for a very long time that using motor oil on my firearms will cause all sorts of problems (from corrosion to actual damage and malfunction) and after nearly 15 years I have yet to see a single issue. Many friends have used it as well and without problems.

 

[Ohio Gun Guy]

5w30 same the car gets....

It works out great. I buy it 6 quarts at a time. 5 for the car, 1 for the guns.

I've always used motor oil on guns.....just the last 5 years or so, the synthetic.

 

[General Geoff]

Question: will very thin motor oil (say, 0W-20 or 0W-30) work in a standard spritzer bottle? If so, I'll have to try it out.

 

[benEzra]

Question: will very thin motor oil (say, 0W-20 or 0W-30) work in a standard spritzer bottle? If so, I'll have to try it out.

Not in a spritzer bottle, no (if by that you mean a spray bottle), I would imagine. The oil is still pretty viscous, which is one reason that it's such a darn good lubricant. It would also deliver a whole lot of oil with each squirt, probably more than you need.

I use an old Rem Oil squeeze bottle that I filled with Mobil 1, but you could also get some 1 to 3 mL oral syringes from a pharmacy (with nozzle caps) and use one of those as an applicator. For lubricating the bolt or other large surfaces, I'll drip some onto a large cleaning patch and apply with that.

BTW, for those considering trying it, the qualities that make it an excellent lubricant (thick film, high shear strength, very low volatility) mean that you don't want to apply it too thickly to the gun's exterior, or else you will be getting it on your hands for months; it doesn't "dry out" like a lot of solvent-based gun lubricants do. Apply it thinly to the exterior and buff off the excess, or use an exterior protectant that goes on thinner (that's one thing that Rem Oil is good for, and Corrosion-X and Boeshield really shine here).

 

[481]

The 1/2 ounce needle oilers from Brownells are excellent for applying oil in small amounts. Three for $7. Can't beat 'em.

 

[Elm Creek Smith]

I hadn't thought about using motor oil on guns, but in the Army we used 10w on M85 machineguns on M60-series tanks in hot weather when we were firing lots of .50 cal.

I'll have to give it another try.

ECS