Spray on Lube problems and cracked casings

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pilotlight

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OK, you guys have never let me down on my ???'s before.
So, here goes.

1. I want to use either Cabelas or Hornady One Shot lube on my RIFLE cases for
resizing. Last month, I stuck a case in my .223 die when using One Shot. A little worried about using again, but would like to give it a go. Probably didnt follow the directions correctly!
Can someone help me here with tips on using this? Previously, I was using Redding Sizing Wax and would like to start using spray lubes.

2. Has anyone here ever encountered problems with reloading casings with ever-so-small cracks in the case necks? Usually, resizing and case trimming takes care of this, but was just curious.

I shoot my loads through a DPMS 308 with no problems before, but would also like to know how many loadings do your casings get when running through a semiauto. appreciate your advice.
 
OK, I'll do that. How many firings do your casings get through your semiauto before tossing?
 
Be sure and let it dry for a few minutes to get rid of all the solvent in it.

When it dries, it should be just lube, not solvent laden watery lube.

rc
 
Shake the hell our of the can
Click to expand...

Be sure and let it dry for a few minutes to get rid of all the solvent in it.
Click to expand...

+1 for both... I use heavy built large boxes (like a flat rate box). Give them a little spray and shake. Then another little spray and shake again. Like RC said, let it completly dry before sizing.
 
I have never had success with One Shot on rifle cases. I have tried letting dry, spraying a lot, spraying a little (real bad choice), shaking in a bag and a couple things I do not remember.

Works great on 30 Carbine though.

I feel it is not very efficient. What a can costs $10 or so. In a year, I have gone through 3 or 4 cans. I am only on my third bottle of RCBS case pad lubricant after 30 years of reloading. I am still using my first can of Imperial sizing wax after 15 years. Total cost has been less than what I have spent on One Shot.
 
cfullgraf.. I use it on my .308 (thick stuff, harder to resize than my 30-06) and .30-06. I only stuck one case.. and thats because I was trying to lube every other round.


pilot.. depends on the brass and the load and how nice your semi is to the brass.

A tight chamber means less sizing is required..
full house loads wear brass quickr
some brass just don't last as long

for a rifle.. I'd expect 5-6 reloadings
 
"for a rifle.. I'd expect 5-6 reloadings"

Scythe, I am probably on the 6th or 7th loading now. Cases
still look pretty decent. I am using LC, Federal, Winchester, Remington
SBS, PPU and Hornady cases.
 
I stuck two cases with oneshot, now use only Dillon lube with progressives.

If you anneal the cases before you size the cracks you are getting will go away.
 
Scythe, I am probably on the 6th or 7th loading now. Cases
still look pretty decent.
Click to expand...

You need to keep an eye on them. 7 reloads in a semi-auto is getting long in the tooth. If you haven't been checking them for potential head seperation problems, you should start.
 
take a hanger and cut off a couple inches. Straigten it out, and then put a hook on the end of it. Run that hook along the inside of the case, from base to neck. If you feel a "dip" on the inner wall.. pitch it.

I'll post a pic of my tool I use later.

If you see a bright ring around the case just above the head.. another BIG sign.

I'm running some .308 loads in match brass that might actually survive that much working.. but no guarantees.
 
I stuck a case in my .223 die when using One Shot. A little worried about using again, but would like to give it a go. Probably didnt follow the directions correctly!
Can someone help me here with tips on using this? Previously, I was using Redding Sizing Wax and would like to start using spray lubes.
Click to expand...

Save the One Stuck spray lube for straight wall pistol cases. The Redding/Imperial Sizing Die wax is much better suited to bottleneck cases.

Don
 
Above the head and not to be mistaken for the ring that the die sometimes leaves where it stops sizing. Search here and you'll find lots of stuff and photos.
 
Here is the tool I use. This is a brass case that actually fails the test listed above. i pitched all of the obvious cases... my camera on my phone wont pick up the slight ring starting to show.

IMG_20120625_154723.gif
IMG_20120625_154742.gif
IMG_20120625_154754.gif
IMG_20120625_154758.gif
 
AR10-style guns tend to be gentle on brass which may explain why I have gotten more than 5 reloadings out of them successfully. But, with that said, I am going to be checking all of them more closely for that weakening of the case.
 
I've been using Dillon Spray Lube (pump bottle of alcohol and lanolin) on .223 cases and it works great. The trick is to wait for the alcohol to evaporate off. When this bottle is finally empty, I'm going to try mixing my own refill using alcohol and castor oil.

One Shot should be adequate for .30 Carbine with carbide dies, and pistol brass with non-carbide dies. (otoh, so is Gunk silicone spray, but keep that stuff away from your primers)
 
Used Hornady One Shot with 30-30 with no problems before.
And I sized them right after I lubed them. I did shake that can quite a bit and made sure to get all sides of the case and the case mouth to just for good measure.

Because I load test loads for my 30-06, I prefer to use Mink Oil. Works great for me with no problems what so ever. Used it on .308 as well. No problems there either. I never did try to reload a case with a cracked neck in rifle cause of the dangers that come along with it. But if trimming and sizing helps get rid of it...I would still be cautious about it.
 
I've had good luck with one shot and 223 as well. Larger brass gets Imperial sizing wax though.
 
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