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Don't understand about the spray-on lubes...

Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by 762NATO, Mar 12, 2010.

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  1. 762NATO

    762NATO Member

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    According to the Lyman manual, it says that you should avoid lubing the case shoulder or it could result in a dented shoulder during resizing. So, my question is, how on earth do you spray an entire loading block of cases and not hit the shoulder??

    I'd love to just spray a whole block of 'em and get it done, but the manual has me leaning towards using imperial wax or a lube pad.
     
  2. EddieNFL

    EddieNFL member

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    I use spray. Haven't dented a shoulder, yet. I throw 'em in a plastic bag, spray and shake.
     
  3. ole farmerbuck

    ole farmerbuck Member

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    Hornady one shot is all i use. Never had a problem plus it lubes inside the neck.
     
  4. Walkalong

    Walkalong Moderator

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    A little lube there won't hurt.
     
  5. cmgred

    cmgred Member

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    +1 on Hornady One shot Lube in a ziploc.
     
  6. ole farmerbuck

    ole farmerbuck Member

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    I use a 50 round loading tray. I can put 100 cases on it and give them all an even coat by setting it on a bar stool in the middle of the reloading room. Walk around the stool while spraying, then carefully carry it to the bench without spilling them! Never dented shoulders.
     
  7. kelbro

    kelbro Member

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    Shoulders dent from hydraulic pressure. Thick lube that plugs the vent. A spray of One-Shot, allowed to dry according to the instructions, will not cause dents.
     
  8. oneounceload

    oneounceload member

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    Watch the fumes from the Hornady stuff - not exactly friendly to breathe
     
  9. ants

    ants Member

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    Typical spray lubes...

    ...contain lanolin or similar natural lubricant, with alcohol as a solvent. Spray it on the brass, the alcohol evaporates, a thin film of lubricant is left. The thin film won't dent cases like the old roll lubricant did.


    But here's a tip. The lanolin and alcohol only stay mixed for a few seconds. So you have to keep shaking while you spray. If you stop, the lanolin sinks to the bottom and you spray pure lanolin. When it's gone, all you have in the container is pure alcohol. Next time you spray that, the alcohol evaporates and you got nuthin' on your brass. Then your cases get stuck in the die. So keep constantly shaking while you spray.



    For large centerfire rifle or difficult cases, uses Imperial or Lee. They are carnauba type waxes, and are far superior to any other case lubricant.
     
  10. Remo-99

    Remo-99 Member

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    They proberbly should have elaberated a little more, saying 'excessive lube on the shoulders may cause dents'.
    A light film on there is not gonna do too much, where as excess lube is trapped during sizing and goes the only it can go, displacing the softer brass which is forced inward.
     
  11. Marlin 45 carbine

    Marlin 45 carbine Member

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    that's why I prefer Lee dies for bottle-neck cases they have a hole near the top that any air or excess lube is squeezed out of, RCBS don't.
    these are the only dies I've used so far.
    I prefer Lee for straight cases too as the powder-thru-expander speeds up loading. I have single-stage presses, 2 in tandem a Chucker and a Lee Classic.
     
  12. JimKirk

    JimKirk Member

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    All my Bottle neck RCBS dies have a bleed hole, so do my Lyman, Pacific, Hornady and Reddings.

    Jimmy K
     
  13. Walkalong

    Walkalong Moderator

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    but if the lube is oozing out, you used way too much. ;)
     
  14. Marlin 45 carbine

    Marlin 45 carbine Member

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    the only RCBS die set I have is an older 30-30 that doesn't have a 'bleed hole' in the seating/crimping die, maybe the older ones didn't have. the 2 Lee bottleneck die set I have the bleed hole is there near the neck area.
     
  15. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

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    Never spray them standing in a loading block.

    For one thing, the heavy case head taper that needs lube most won't get any.
    Because they are down inside the loading block.

    For another thing, who wants a perfectly good loading block all slimy with case lube & dirt stuck all over it?

    I use an old Tupperware mixing bowl.
    Dump the cases in it, spray, and hand mix the cases, then spray again.

    After the solvent dries, I hand wipe each case by giving it a twist in my other fingers as I pick it up out of the bowl and resize them.

    That leaves just a very thin layer all over each case.
    The shoulders will not dent.

    I also have a coffee can hanging right beside the press, and the sized case in dropped in it on the way to picking up another one out of the bowl.
    It minimizes hand movement and probably doubles the speed you can resize compared to standing each one in a hole in a loading block.

    rc
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2010
  16. armarsh

    armarsh Member

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    The directions, right from the bottle of dillion case lube, say to spread the cases out on a cookie sheet stolen from your spouse.
     
  17. 918v

    918v Member

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    I like Imperial. No mess. Never a stuck case. Wipes off in a jiffy. Lasts forever.
     
  18. ole farmerbuck

    ole farmerbuck Member

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    I only use the loading block for 223's and the holes are shallow and big enough that i have no problem spraying lube on the bottom of the cases. I do know what you are saying though. I have plenty of blocks so useing one for spraying isnt going to hurt anything. The holes are big enough for 22-250 cases, not a tight fit at all for 223's.
     
  19. allen4150

    allen4150 Member

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    I think they are talking about those paste lubes that come in a tube where you apply with your fingers. It IS easy to over do it with that stuff.
     
  20. alsaqr

    alsaqr Member

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    Works for me.
     
  21. Johnny Guest

    Johnny Guest Moderator Emeritus

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    An additional suggestion

    Seems to me that rifle brass gets dented easily if handled roughly before it is reloaded. I suggest putting a wadded-up shop towel, terry wash cloth, or the like, in the coffee can. It provides a cushion and prevents some of the dings and case mouth nicks.

    Best,
    Johnny
     
  22. ny32182

    ny32182 Member

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    I lay all the cases out on an old rag and orient them with all the case mouths pointing the same way. Then I spray One-Shot from a 45 degree angle so I hit the body and down in the mouth as well. I get plenty on the shoulder. I then roll the cases over so the other side is up, and repeat. I don't wait as long as it says to wait on the bottle before I start sizing. Sometimes I get very small shoulder dents, but for my purposes this is irrelevant anyway.

    My question about the ziploc bag approach is, how do you get lube in the case mouth? It needs to be there.

    Imperial wax and the like is a total mystery to me... I'd need to hit youtube or something to figure out how that is applied both inside and outside.
     
  23. cmgred

    cmgred Member

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    I use a few short sprays (1-2 seconds each) of the stuff, and shake the bag in between. I you reuse the same bag multiple times it tends to go everywhere. At least I haven't had any problems.
     
  24. ForneyRider

    ForneyRider Member

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    I started with Lee, then Hornady One Shot and currently use Imperial Sizing wax. I will use One Shot from time to time on pistol.

    With full length sizing of bottleneck cases, lubing every other or even every 3rd case works pretty well. I only dimpled shoulders on 30-30. I cut back the lube and have no more issues of that sort.
     
  25. dboyles

    dboyles Member

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    I use Imperial for the case, and the Frankford Arsenal Neck Lubricator for case necks. I pick up a case with my right hand and pass it to my left, using my left thumb and index fingers to coat the body with Imperial wax, then dip the case neck in the mica lube and over the brush, and then on to the press, which I pull with my right hand. While I'm picking up the next case with my right hand, I do a light "thumbprint" in the tin of Imperial and repeat the process over.
     
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