Sig P228 better trigger than P220?

More used (mainspring) than your newer one

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I'm gonna guess that your young, 1000 round, 220's mainspring still feels like the 21 or 24lb factory spring pull along with your young return spring vs his 228, most likely, has far more total rounds thru it and its factory mainspring, after much more use, probably is around 18/19 lbs now along with a return spring that may be near a 5000 round mark, making the pull feel/weight of the 2 springs feel much smoother/lighter feeling vs your 2 much newer, less used, factory springs.

You can, very easily, get a 220 Wolff mainspring kit which starts, IIRC, at around 20lb, 19, 18, 17, 16lb and within 2 of my P229/40's one is with a 17lb mainspring and the other is using an 18lb.. both Wolff mainspring replacements have just over 6K flawless rounds with no light strikes, be it new or re-load ammo.

You just have to check, with grip off, whether you've got the short mainspring, about 1" long or the long mainspring, about 2" long and order the kit from Wolff.

Other than that, yours should feel like his at around the 10K mark.. of actual use.

OMMV



Ls

Maybe the 228 has the SRT (short reset trigger) on it?

Who has the best prices on those kits? I assume we are talking about the mainspring that goes to the trigger, behind that right grip as you posted?

Also, lightening the hammer spring lightens the trigger pull on the SA trigger pull right?

Click to expand...

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I'd steer ya towards Wolff Springs, they're well known by many Sig and other fine gun users of his springs.

Yes, it lightens the SA pull/break just a tad, but namely you feel the DA pull become much lighter, quicker, smoother-feeling.

I'd say get the kit and start with an 18lb mainspring and go from there. It gets tempting to go lighter but 17lb is about it as I tried the 16lb mainspring but soon after 500 rounds I started getting light strikes, this on my P225 9mm, put it back to 19lb mainspring and it's like heaven going thru 1000k flawless rounds.

Here's pic of a "long" mainspring with grip off, goes up/under your hammer strut



Here's a "short" mainspring with large plastic base




Luck,


Ls

Getting down to the bottom of this -

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So, we're talking about the trigger take-up and ease of break of his 228's SA break vs your 220's take-up but much harder/stiffer SA break..?

I wonder IF it could be in the trigger itself as I, too, bought a NIB 228/9mm not long ago and I'm thinking like mine, his came with the SRT, short reach trigger, vs the standard trigger (thicker, heavier) as seen below, possibly..?

Standard and SRT


As said, mine came with the SRT trigger which I didn't like, as it pinched my finger with each shot and my accuracy was way off so I changed it out to the bigger, standard, trigger and solved my problems, trigger comfort/feel and accuracy.

My 220R DA/SA has the standard trigger as well so the question is which trigger does your 220 have and IF his is the same or different as seen above than yours.

If that's it, then you might want to change to the same trigger he has and if not, then it's a simple fix via going with a lighter mainspring and using some kind of thinner lubricant down the face of the hammer face sear and on the sear itself that will stay and not attract dirt, spent powder, like gun oil will.

I've had great success with all my guns trigger actions using a synthetic dry lube called Eezox.

I'm sure it's not about quality control as, IIRC, his 228 and mine where produced in 2009 and my 220 was produced in 2005.

With your 4 first serial numbers, like mine is G382xxx I can tell you when your 220 was made a/o with your buddys 228's if you want to know. But -

I could be wrong, (i.e trigger size or feel) not "feeling" the SA action/pull/break of your gun but I've had 2 of my Sigs triggers that sucked in both DA and SA and both were easily fixed by changing out the factory mainsprings and treating the trigger action with Eezox, every now and then, as it last, works, for long periods of time in-between cleanings and re-treatments, being that Eezox is a cleaner/lubricator in one product I've been using with great results over the last 6yrs with all my guns.

And, both my 220 and 228 have the original mainsprings and both are "smooth" even/easy DA pulls with predictable SA take-up and clean SA breaks with no need of mainspring change fyi. But both have been treated, trigger works as mentioned, with Eezox which makes any metal on metal contact slippery. Whereas, my one 229/40's DA pull felt like pulling a boat anchor across a patch of tiny rocks and on the other the SA break had a lot of "creep", after taking up the slack, before the actual SA break, and that, too, was made right with lighter mainspring and treatmeant with Eezox but -

Let's start with what trigger, standard or SRT you have and your buddy's size trigger..



Ls

You said 228 compact. I don't recall Sig making a 228 Compact. You may have meant 239 since you said 9mm. If this is the case does it have a DAK trigger on it. These are noticeably lighter over a std DA/SA trigger.

Would add that the West German guns are way smother on the DA/SA.

220 full size vs 228 mid-size, and Compacts are even smaller, so -

I talked to my buddy about that gun. He bought it new when he got it. Said its got less than 500 rounds through it. Im going to be honest, im a little concerned that mine may be abnormally heavy in the trigger pull. Maybe its leverage, I dunno. but when I went to suck up the slack in the trigger like I do mine, his went off. Maybe that's the 'new' vs. 'old' Sig quality thing I keep reading about.

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Yea, I agree, we first have to know if we're talking Apples and Apples, as in his gun and your gun both have DA/SA trigger actions. Or are we in an Apple vs Orange cloud where his could be a light, quick, DAO only, type trigger action, only..?

So, are you sure your buds gun is a P228/9mm and not a 239/9mm and do both your guns have full hammers, same looking hammers, and both are DA/SA, Double Action long pull before hammer falls, then hammer stays back, set in SA, Single Action mode, where the take-up is short and the actual trigger pull, hammer break/fall is a very short pull..?

Or, can you thumb-cock your hammer back into SA mode and the same with his gun..?

Let's sort it out to have a better picture to work with


Ls

I wonder IF it could be in the trigger itself as I, too, bought a NIB 228/9mm not long ago and I'm thinking like mine, his came with the SRT, short reach trigger, vs the standard trigger (thicker, heavier) as seen below, possibly..?

Click to expand...

To avoid introducing any possible confusion into the discussion, I think we should stick to SIG's terminology.

The SRT in SIG parlance is the Short Reset Trigger. The trigger that Lonestar discussed and posted a picture of is what he correctly described as the Short reach Trigger, but is what SIG calls their Short Trigger, not their SRT.

If this is picking too much of a nit, then I apologize.

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Well, in carrying yours, your DA setting and heavy pull-thru is your safety beyond your trigger finger. Anything after a real SD/HD DA pull is what you want in the SA mode, so give it more time as you get more used to your gun.

Did you happen to remember if you had the same triggers, size wise, in pics I showed..?



Ls

The SRT in SIG parlance is the Short Reset Trigger. The trigger that Lonestar discussed and posted a picture of is what he correctly described as the Short reach Trigger, but is what SIG calls their Short Trigger, not their SRT.

If this is picking too much of a nit, then I apologize.

Click to expand...

Ps.. lol, yea Short (reach) Trigger but time, in-between this last discussion has been to long..

I'm not much into the mechanics of the guns I shoot so could someone explain to me what the determining factor or gun part is that affects when/how a trigger "breaks"?

This should help

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Here's a Beretta Px4 DA/SA view of events your looking for

Pulling of trigger pulls trigger bar which pulls/pushes sear off hammer sear face releasing hammer/fall - in short

http://www.beretta.com/index.aspx?m=116&f=10&idt=1&idc=2&CurRec=0

Used to have one on the 1911 but to many bookmarks.. lol


Ls

More Sigs is better

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Best get all 3 like most of us.. (or more) like most of us.. lol



P229/40 - P220R/45 - P229R CT 9mm *note: P229's same size as P228



Beretta Px4 40/G - Sig P225/9mm - SA EMP 1911 SAO 9mm - Sig P228/9mm



Ls

FWIW, the DA trigger pull on my 1995 220 was terribly hard. I never got around to changing the mainspring before selling. The pull on my friend's 229 was less difficult.

I have a W. German all-original P226, my buddy has a W. German CPO (i.e. rebuilt firing control group) P226, and I also have a newest production P229R 9mm with a W. German P226 grooved trigger. So, my P226 and P229R have the same trigger, while my buddy has a smooth one. But, my P226 SA trigger pull is FAR better (smoother, lighter and more crisp) than the other two. Sig has changed the secret sauce in the sear release IMO. My P229R has a FAR better DA pull than either though.