m1 carbine with bad barrel fixable?

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suthernpride59

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I feel dumb for asking this as i have build several rifles but....

The Question: If my barrel turns further than it should and moves freely can I buy a new barrel and install it to fix the gun? The real question is how do I know if the threading on the barrel was over worked or the threading on the receiver was over worked. Or are they both stripped now....?


The story:
I have an m1 carbine that I bought when I first joined the military that my buddy broke. For a reason my dumb 18 years old a** didn't understand the $300 pawn shop M1 carbine wouldn't always fully chamber a round after every shot. I now know that the gas piston was overly worn and the seal around the gas nut was leaky as someone had previously stripped it. After further examination I realized that the barrel was moving freely......that doesn't sound right.....you can't just unscrew the barrel off of a rifle. After some though and research i realized I had been juked and the gun was a POS due to some bad either gunsmithing or neglect. Either way I HAVE DECIDED 6 YEARS LATER TO FIX THE D*MN THING AS I SHOULD HAVE WHEN I WAS 18.

The conclusion: If I buy a new barrel and the correct tools can I install a new barrel and call it good or is the receiver screwed as well? How do I tell?
 
First most important thing: Who made the receiver and the barrel? Then maybe there will be a bit more to respond to.
 
Looks like you have an excellent wall-hanger. I would doubt very much, if everything is as loose as you say, that the receiver and barrel are salvagable. One route you can take is, buy a barrel and see if it times hand tight. If it goes too far, you will need a new receiver as well. Fulton Armory is a very good place to look, although , they are very busy right now. If their website is offline keep trying a day or so later.
 
First question is who made the receiver? If it's USGI then all is not lost. If it's a post-war receiver then I'd be somewhat hesitant.

To replace the barrel I would troll the CMP forums for a take-off or buy a new one here

Where are you located?
 
Once you establish that the receiver is USGI and serviceable you can order a barrel through companies like (Numritch), hope its spelled right.

Use a barrel wrench to install the barrel or you will damage the receiver.
You must use a pull through reamer to correctly set the headspace. Its been awhile since I correctly set the headspace on a winchester M1 Carbine I bought from a gunshot. Like you I didn't know what I was getting into. I found out that the rounds weren't chambering properly. If you do replace the barrel you must use a pull through reamer to correctly set the headspace. I would never take the chance of firing an M1 Carbine without doing so.
 
As you would need head space gauges anyway to determine headspace, is it so unlikely that it would headspace properly in the beginning?
 
If the receiver is outsized you can, 1; have a heat treating service heat shring and reharden the receiver.
2. install a new barrel, if it will not crush fit properly, you can seat and headspace then drill and tap for two or three set screws to hold the barrel in place.

This will likely cost as much as a complete rifle.
 
The first thing to look at are the match / witness lines on the barrel and receiver. If the barrel tightens before the marks line up you will have to properly torque the barrel until they do and then check head space. Don't go any further until you do this.
The gas piston threads and nut might be repairable. It depends on the damage.
If the barrel doesn't torque until it's past the match lines you will have to determine if it's the barrel or the receiver. Probably the barrel if it's a USGI receiver. Shimming might be an option. The witness marks are important. This lines up your travel for the slots, slight and the front sight.
Post pictures. We need lots of pictures.
I have replace several barrels on M1 carbines. Only problem I have experenced is a short chamber in a Winchester barrel.
 
I rarely give this advice, but it seems appropriate in this case:

Go to a gunsmith. It's not just a case of the barrel being loose; the barrel is loose for a reason and that reason needs to be determined and corrected by somebody who knows what they are doing. A quick fix is begging for big trouble later.
 
I agree with Natman. I would go to a good Gunsmith and have it checked out and repaired if possible or if it is totalled, hang it on the wall.
 
If it is indeed a GI gun and it is not repairable you could probably part it out (with proper disclosure for the out of spec parts) and come near the price of a replacement. If it's not GI you could still part it out, but probably you'd see less money.
 
Sorry yall I appreciate all the advice. I apologize for taking so long to get back on but I've been busy with fixing my 1919 and completely forgot I even posted this thread. When I get home tomorrow I will remove the rear sight and check to see who made the receiver and I'll post it. Again thanks for all the help yall.
 
so i put the barrel in the right position and placed a match grade round and a comercial round in the chamber they both fit perfectly. This being said the headspace seems to be just fine so ive decided if i wrap a peice of opper wire at the base of the barrel where the barrel meets the reiever this should take out all the slack and alow me to have the barrel in the correct alignment once i tighten it.

Now i just need to find a barrel vice and action wrench to buy for cheap or borrow. Any body wana rent one to me :)
 
and the rear sight is staked into place and the only part i can make out of the name is NAT(i thinkits a T)__________ORD. So maybe national ordnance but the serial doesnt match according to the list on the CMP site.
 
so i put the barrel in the right position and placed a match grade round and a comercial round in the chamber they both fit perfectly. This being said the headspace seems to be just fine so ive decided if i wrap a peice of opper wire at the base of the barrel where the barrel meets the reiever this should take out all the slack and alow me to have the barrel in the correct alignment once i tighten it.

Now i just need to find a barrel vice and action wrench to buy for cheap or borrow. Any body wana rent one to me
Click to expand...
I'm not following you here. Are you saying the barrel and receiver match lines lined up without using the vise and wrench or does it still have a way to go.
You will need a head space gauge. You cant test head space with ammo.
Post some picures
 
JESUS H. TAP DANCING CHRIST!!!! don't shade tree gunsmith this thing anymore than has already been done!! You are not a competent gunsmith take it to someone that is!
 
JESUS H. TAP DANCING CHRIST!!!! don't shade tree gunsmith this thing anymore than has already been done!! You are not a competent gunsmith take it to someone that is!
Click to expand...
This, to the 100th power ^^^^^

All your going to do without proper tools is make a dangerous situation.
 
Yes the barrel turns to the correct alignment by hand, i did find some go/no-go 30 carbine guages to borrow. The gun head spaces by hand so for the time being the copper wire idea seems to be the best bet. Should this not work a new barrel is the next step.
 
There's your problem. The index marks shouldn't line up without a large amount of torque. You sometimes have to put a lot of a$$ behind it to line them up. That's why you need the barrel vise tool and wrench. I wouldn't use copper. It's too soft. I would have a gun smith figure out which shim to use and then see if it still head spaces.
You can also look at www.mcmaster.com for shims.
I think in the end you are going to have a head space problem.
 
This is the reason they say you should have used guns checked by a gunsmith prior to firing. Please, after bubba'ing this rifle (which sounds like what your going to do despite being given good advice here), do not sell it to someone except clearly labeled as a damaged project gun....
 
Two words...Fulton Armory
Also try militarysmallarms.com

Do not Bubba that rifle...get it fixed right.

Just my .02,
LeonCarr
 
Leon beat me to it. I have one that works fine, but I'm sure everything in it is 60 years old, and I am going to send it to Fulton to have it looked at and maybe re-barreled. Pricey? Maybe. Worth it to get another 50 years out of my grandfather's heirloom? I think so.
 
If it is fixable, Miltech will let you know likely for free if he can fix it They are bar none the best restorers of theses carbines.
 
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