Shooting out a boresnake brush?

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bore obstruction: Wow.

drive it out with with brass rod from hardware store. Going out the way it went toward the breech will make it easier. Pour a good amount of of kroils or other oil on top of it and let it soak.

might try letting both ends soak first.

slowly tap it out!

Other than putting a mild acid in the barrel, strong enough to deteriorate/eat the cloth of the snake but not strong enough to damage the metal.

I think tapping and oil and more oil and tapping
 
JohnM - if you have nothing constructive to say please refrain from posting. Thanks

This photo is the current set-up. The two pencil lines on the barrel (silver color) is exactly where the .30 brush is. Above the rifle is a never used .30 hoppes boresnake that I dissected to know exactly what it was comprised of, I originally thought it had a nylon core but it has a bronze brush with what appears to be a steel core...which is why I could not burn any further.

20130618_184407.jpg


I have read in other threads the manufacturer states adding any solvents swells the material and aggravates the situation. I don't have access to MEK in any event which has appeared to work for others.

Gunsmiths in this country, Luxembourg are not reliable and on both occasions I have brought my firearms to have something fixed they never were which is why I would like to try resolve this on my own, if at all possible.

I cut the boresnake flush to the chamber to disassemble the rifle ( I had no real leverage from the ejection port), I have attached a plumber´s auger into the threaded section of the snake that resides within the chamber area. I have pulled like crazy but this had gone nowhere. This is option number one but I have no means to generate leverage once I have put the barrel in a vice.

Option 2 was to burn out the snake from the chamber all the way to the brush...and use a rod....my fear being the brush will bow/bend and not go straight out, this could create an even larger obstruction.

Option 3 was to use the 4 mm brass sleeve I originally used to protect the barrel while burning to attempt to collapse the bronze bristles, I do not believe this is feasible.

Option 4 ....what I originally asked and last on my list of preferences is to burn all the material out from the chamber to the brush and start with only a case and primer. I do not believe a primer alone would affect the barrel integrity but that the gases from a primer plus 1 grain of powder etc. would dislodge it.

I will take it to a gunsmith if nobody can suggest viable alternatives. I am not saying my options are worthwhile, just wanting a list of possibilities that leave as many options open as possible.
 
There's a lubricant called Tri-Flow that's the slickest, slipperiest stuff I've ever found. It's kinda hard to find (around my area anyway), but if you can get some I'd spray it down the barrel and soak that boresnake real good. It's kind of a liquid teflon, and slicker than snot. That might help to get it out.

I put some on some door hinges years ago, and they still get blown closed by even the slightest breeze! Our bedroom door has to be propped open because it'll swing shut on its own, that Tri-flow is like putting bearings on it.
 
Oh, I just read your post above.....I had no idea you're in Luxembourg! Tri-flow may not be available, but there's got to be some kind of super-slick oil around.
 
A close up of the brush from the dissected 7,62mm hoppes snake, I put a slight kink in this thing just by testing it with my hands...which is why I fear using a rod will collapse it back on itself as the steel appears extremely malleable.

20130618_192638.jpg
 
Maybe flush the solvents/past attempts with some good solvent like some acetone and then dump/work like five grains of fast burning pistol powder down in there and then light it somehow.. perhaps repeat a few times.
Yea, don't do that but tell us how it goes if you do.
 
Try plugging the end(s) after you fill the brush end of the bore with a good copper solvent. Then stand the barrel up in a corner somewhere for a week or so. this should disolve some of the brissles, reducing the drag when you push/pound on a brass (or if you are brave a steel) rod. The advice NOT to use a wood rod is spot on!!!
 
Another thing you moght try is to fill the bore with oil, from the same end you started the snake from, insert a SHORT tight fitting wood dowel section, stand the barrel on end on a soft but firm surface and pound hard on the exposed end of the dowel. This should "hydrolic" the obstruction out.
 
i'm no gunsmith, so somebody please correct me if i'm a dumbass, but how about heating up the barrel a bit? barrels can get pretty hot just from shooting so i don't see how heating it up can hurt the barrel, it may just expand enough to loosen up the obstruction
 
A week soaking in any OTC copper solvent is only going to take away a few mils off the brush bristles.
You're in Europe, go to a welding supply or industrial distributer and buy a length of 5mm brass or bronze brazing rod, 5.5mm would be better, but I doubt you'd find it.
That's all you need.
Just start driving the stuck brush in the direction it was traveling and the sucker will come out.
 
Bore snake stuck, again, I make bore snakes, I could be doing something wrong, I find it impossible to stick one, I did see a demonstration, seems the demonstrator was having fun, but, not enough fun to convince me I needed one.

F. Guffey
 
I got a busted .30 cal boresnake out of a barrel using a packing puller.

Everyone seems to want to beat it through. I would try to pull it, .22 is a bit small but not impossible to make up a jig with a LONG sub .22 cal screw on a rod and pull it out.

I was able to do the same roughly with a small packing puller tip (looks like a corkscrew) on a rod.

This was a friends rifle and he was in a panic...we got it out in short order.

I don't use boresnakes myself.
 
I've got a drawer full of high quality packing pullers left over from my work years. Even one that will pass into a .22 barrel; problem would be attaching enough length to one to reach far enough, and in a .22 bore there ain't any room for tools.
Possible, but doubtful, when you get down to that small a bore, driving an obstruction out is the only option.
 
Option 1
My first option is what I would like to do...use the plumber snake I have already cork screwed into the threads of the boresnake within the chamber area....my issue is leverage once I have fixed the barrel in a vice. I pulled on this like crazy to no avail.

This is the best option as I can always burn the snake and attempt to push out the brush if the above fails.

My question is would a gunsmith have a tool available to stretch the coiled plumber snake and pull the brush out the way it went in? I need some sort of rachet wheel that perhaps a gunsmith might have?
 
You are going to scratch the bore with a spring steel plumbers snake.

If you got all the sting out of the way?
Go buy some brass rod at a hardware store or welding shop and drive it on through and out the muzzle.

Do not try to drive it out back the way it went in, as the bristles are bent over the direction it was going when it broke.

Just keep going the direction it was going and it will come out.

Brass rod will not harm the bore.

rc
 
Im not entirely sure of your situation, but if the snake portion is still intact and is the leading end of the system. Then a Push -pull arrangement will be best. The brass rod will benefit if it is counterbored a small about(machine shop or creative drill press).This will keep the brush core centered and avoid cocking and kinking. Putting a few wraps of electrical tape at intervals on the rod, if noticeably smaller diameter than bore to keep it centered and avid rubbing the bore.
Just reviewed the posts. A good soaking with a copper solvent like Boretech Eliminator will reduce the bristles as suggested. The brush will almost then still have to pass in the same direction it was installed. Perhaps a packing screw from the muzzle and a carefully installed rod(caution due to the burn/melted hole in the snake). Then hopefully with some manual pushing and simultaneous pulling from the muzzle the issue can resolve.
Reducing the mass of the fabric may be done by hand driving a sharp bit , carefully with a guide such as a sub caliber metal tube. You dont have to remove all the farbic just reduce the volume enough to pass a drive rod easily without pressure or resistance
Note: they make muzzle end rod/bore guides which would be equally quick and less likely to produce such undesirable results.
 
20 ton hydraulic press and a steel rod?

It'll either come out, or it won't, and you'll buy a new barrel.
 
Another thing you moght try is to fill the bore with oil, from the same end you started the snake from, insert a SHORT tight fitting wood dowel section, stand the barrel on end on a soft but firm surface and pound hard on the exposed end of the dowel. This should "hydrolic" the obstruction out.
I'm no engineer, but this method sounds brilliant with the least chance of damaging anything if it didn't work.

Makes perfect sense to dislodge it from the direction it was moving when it was stuck because of the bristles being bent away from the direction it was moving.

If you are having trouble getting leverage, try this... once the barrel is safely secured in the vice with the end of the barrel facing you in the direction that the obstruction will be moving. Take a long ( like 5-6 foot) steel pry bar. Anchor the end in the ground or floor. If indoor put a wooden crate on the floor large enough to stand on. Use the crate and your weight on it to anchor the pry bar. Attach whatever you are using to pull it out; to the bar slightly higher than the barrel. The distance between the opening of the barrel and the bar should be as short as possible when pulling to reduce stretch and keep the angle of the pull straight.

Word of caution... DO NOT pull the bar towards you without controlling the force. Yanking with reckless abandon you are likely to split your head open with the bar if the object suddenly lets go. Push the bar away from you, or TAP with a sufficient sized hammer.

I would ask a friend to help and drive from one end with the hydraulic technique described above in combination with pulling from the other end.

Does this make sense? Good Luck.
 
lykoris said:
Option 1
My first option is what I would like to do...use the plumber snake I have already cork screwed into the threads of the boresnake within the chamber area....my issue is leverage once I have fixed the barrel in a vice. I pulled on this like crazy to no avail.
Click to expand...
Pulling a 22 brush backwards would be hard enough and rarely done but trying to reverse a 308 brush in a 22 barrel will only jam the brush even more. I would think it's impossible to reverse that setup.

You must push the brush in the same direction it was inserted if you want to remove it. Stop talking and start working and you will be done sooner than you think. Like said above, there isn't enough room in the barrel for the brush to fold over, just push it out!
 
For the oil/hydraulic method, wouldn't you need the opposite end of the bore to be open?

Sent from my CZ85 Combat
 
The overwhelming majority suggest driving it out with a brass rod.

I believe burning away as much of the snake as possible would be important as....to take an extreme example, 3m of tightly packed rope in a barrel will never be driven out the other end as it will only compact upon itself. So I think the snake would have to be burnt out as much as possible prior to attempting to drive it out with a rod/brute force.

I will have to go to the hardware store after work tomorrow and get the necessary supplies. In the mean time I will soak it in Ballistol.

My gut tells me this brush will fold in on itself once I start to try beat it out given as 243winxb's photo illustrates there is a long way to go.....I get the feeling I will soon end up with a large paper weight.
 
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