I used to think there was something magical about ultra high grit sharpening stones and precise angles. Nowadays, I freehand with a ceramic rod, a sanding block, or a soft Arkansas stone. Doesn't much matter, so long as I remove the wire burr, after, by stropping. It takes all of 20 seconds to sharpen my convex blades, using any of the above.
For knives with a flat secondary bevel, a ceramic rod is my favorite method. I sharpen these like a sword. By holding the knife still and moving the rod over it (in little circles, almost no pressure), I can keep my eyes on the bevel. I sharpen a small section of blade at a time. I start a little acute, until I can see the back edge of the bevel start to shine up. Then I increase the angle until the edge shines up. Then I move on down the blade until the whole edge is touched up. Go to other side and repeat. If I can feel a wire burr on the entire edge, it's ready for the strop. If there are sections that need more work, the ceramic rod will pinpoint the target areas like no other system, when done this way. This beats the heck out of moving the knife over a rod/stone, checking the bevel, then trying to put the knife back at the same angle, again. It's also very easy to sharpen the curves, tips, or other uneven areas of bevel, without removing any excess material.
For Scandi, I stick with the Arkansas stone.