suggestions for new cleaning/lubricating products?
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justin22885
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interesting that froglube is made entirely of food grade items, explains the heightened cost due to the increase in cost of finding food grade alternatives to mineral spirits, kerosene, and acetone.. but cmon, why pay double the cost just to have gun lube you can safely eat?
Liberty gun lube is a good one because it can withstand extremely cold temperatures.
http://www.libertygunlube.com/
http://www.libertygunlube.com/
Jim Watson
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The last gun lubricant I bought was way back in the Militec 1 craze.
I still have some army surplus oil, lubricating and preservative, light... to which I added the Militec 1 after reading that it's original use was gear drive lube additive.
I have some "Ox Snot" which is Mobil 1 + STP diverted from motor oil supplies.
Otherwise, as the IPSC Master said, I use whatever free sample came in the match goodie bag. I have Gunslick, Lubriplate, Friction Defense, Breakfree, Froglube, and FP10.
It all works, as long as you apply it to the gun. Guns don't have oil pans or oil pumps, if the lube is not on the working parts, it isn't going to get there by itself.
I still have some army surplus oil, lubricating and preservative, light... to which I added the Militec 1 after reading that it's original use was gear drive lube additive.
I have some "Ox Snot" which is Mobil 1 + STP diverted from motor oil supplies.
Otherwise, as the IPSC Master said, I use whatever free sample came in the match goodie bag. I have Gunslick, Lubriplate, Friction Defense, Breakfree, Froglube, and FP10.
It all works, as long as you apply it to the gun. Guns don't have oil pans or oil pumps, if the lube is not on the working parts, it isn't going to get there by itself.
ohbythebay
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Just an FYI on cost
FrogLube may appear costly. Its not. I bought my bottle right after DIY_guy posted his experiment (at least 6 months ago).
I clean 4 guns per week (so say 26 weeks) = 104 cleanings - That includes the AR most times.
I still have 1/8th of a bottle and trust me, I use what appears to be a lot (on the clothes and gun) when cleaning. It goes a long way. Based on that, each of the 104 cleanings costs me about 25 cents ? That's not expensive...to me anyway.
FrogLube may appear costly. Its not. I bought my bottle right after DIY_guy posted his experiment (at least 6 months ago).
I clean 4 guns per week (so say 26 weeks) = 104 cleanings - That includes the AR most times.
I still have 1/8th of a bottle and trust me, I use what appears to be a lot (on the clothes and gun) when cleaning. It goes a long way. Based on that, each of the 104 cleanings costs me about 25 cents ? That's not expensive...to me anyway.
For some people avoiding toxic chemicals/etc, when possible, is nice.
It does an excellent job of lubrication and rust protection as well.
Plus, with the paste, you can apply a very liberal amount and it won't run all over when you store the gun.
justin22885
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the problem i have with the diy guy tests is it only compared basically two important elements but left out a third.. it tested lubrication and rust prevention, but not cleaning and also wasnt a good test about how the lubrication actually functions when heated.. many aspects to a good cleaner/lube were left out of the tests for me to put too much merit into them unless rust prevention or lubrication was the ONLY thing is base it on
I'd like to see how each product performs upon adding more downward pressure on the weighted object, spinning around (how much weight it takes to stall the turntable)...also how each stands up to increasing heat, mimicking firing lots of rounds in rapid fashion.
Lycidas Janwor
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A heat index is a great idea (for anyone who wants to do a future test), guns get hot, and that's when lubrication breaks down, just look at motor oil and car engines. Also, as another poster pointed out, how do these solvents and lubricants work in extreme cold? That's also a factor, but not as important as the heat factor IMHO.
justin22885
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yeah, even though the tests were pretty scientific, none of them were all that relevant to the application
A lot of people use a cleaner/solvent to clean and an oil/lube to lube.
It is asking a lot for one single product to clean, lubricate, and corrosion-protect all at once. You can generally get better results by using a cleaning product and then a lube/protector.
Jim Watson
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Agreed.
If you want to lick your gun, you can get food grade lithium grease from Lubriplate.
Dillon sells Snake Oil which is said to be a "derivative of" the lube used on medical drills. I take that to mean it is not guaranteed sterile but should not be toxic.
If you read some of the old claims for Ballistol, you would think it edible.
If you want to lick your gun, you can get food grade lithium grease from Lubriplate.
Dillon sells Snake Oil which is said to be a "derivative of" the lube used on medical drills. I take that to mean it is not guaranteed sterile but should not be toxic.
If you read some of the old claims for Ballistol, you would think it edible.
RustyShackelford
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Breakthrough-clean, solvents.....
I don't see a problem or issue with using a CLP. I've been around firearms for nearly 30 years(including 4 in the US military) & have seen many gun care products.
To use a solvent or cleaner then apply a lube or gun oil is fine but I prefer to use a CLP. It's faster & more practical.
As noted, FrogLube is not low cost.
It is a great product & works as described. I myself like how it's safe, non toxic, easy to use with bare hands, and can be used indoors.
I have read a few web stories of FL congealing or gum up after being used for extended periods of storage. I think many of these gun owners may have used a excessive amount of Froglube.
I've posted a few times on gun forums how law enforcement armorers & gunsmiths often say the use of excessive amounts of gun oil/CLP or improper cleaning is a common problem they see.
I don't see a problem or issue with using a CLP. I've been around firearms for nearly 30 years(including 4 in the US military) & have seen many gun care products.
To use a solvent or cleaner then apply a lube or gun oil is fine but I prefer to use a CLP. It's faster & more practical.
As noted, FrogLube is not low cost.
It is a great product & works as described. I myself like how it's safe, non toxic, easy to use with bare hands, and can be used indoors.
I have read a few web stories of FL congealing or gum up after being used for extended periods of storage. I think many of these gun owners may have used a excessive amount of Froglube.
I've posted a few times on gun forums how law enforcement armorers & gunsmiths often say the use of excessive amounts of gun oil/CLP or improper cleaning is a common problem they see.
I'm working on the "lots of froglube in storage" thing, kind. I'll have to check my records but I don't think I've shot one of the ARs that has a very liberal coating of FrogLube paste since, well, I'm not sure...6+ months at least. It's fine.
Most anything mentioned will work if you shoot & clean your weapon regularly. I tend to go toward the less smelly products like FireClean. Basically no odor at all. Can be used as a CLP but I find a dedicated cleaner helps from time to time. Enjoy what you choose!
wojownik
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IMHO, CLP is better for cleaning and flushing than for lubrication, though I do use it on my ARs, but not on my pistol rails. I have a gallon of CLP, and use it regularly, but mainly for cleaning.
As noted earlier, Lucas Red N Tacky is my latest fad for my pistols (and the smell dissipates after a day or two, for those who might find it a bit "automotive"....)
I have a tube of Tetra Lithium grease, but it seems to have separated into a clear fluid and white paste. ???
As noted earlier, Lucas Red N Tacky is my latest fad for my pistols (and the smell dissipates after a day or two, for those who might find it a bit "automotive"....)
I have a tube of Tetra Lithium grease, but it seems to have separated into a clear fluid and white paste.
???
RustyShackelford
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Post #5
JoJo:
I stated in post #5 that Ballistol is highly rated.
I've used it & a few other brands since 1997 or so.
The big - I have is that Ballistol only comes in smaller spray can versions.
I've also used Weaponshield & LPX, www.mpro7.com .
JoJo:
I stated in post #5 that Ballistol is highly rated.
I've used it & a few other brands since 1997 or so.
The big - I have is that Ballistol only comes in smaller spray can versions.
I've also used Weaponshield & LPX, www.mpro7.com .
They did, you just have to read the thread.
I like Ballistol for simple gun care & odd jobs around the home. It's non toxic, CFC free & like FrogLube you can use it with bare hands.
justin22885
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i dont know if id say separate cleaner and lube is better than combined, when you think about it your solvents are not pure solvent, but they seem to be cut with something.. looking at modern alternatives to the old hoppes recipe it was basically mineral spirits, kerosene, and ethanol cut with oil of which the closest modern alternative would be automatic transmission fluids, so even in hoppes the active cleaning ingredients are diluted with the ATF
so its probably pretty safe to say if you diluted the solvents with an adequate lubricant i dont think youre going to lose out on the lubricating or cleaning abilities of either of them as separate.. sure you could use a more concentrated solvent, dry, and then lube which is actually the way i was taught to do things but i dont really see where a CLP style product is going to fit into a jack of all trades, master of one type scenario since the chemicals seem to work well, the solvent is plenty strong when diluted, and the content of the solvent in the lubricant if im not mistaken should work to inhibit corrosion and fouling
i really dont think you can go wrong either way, some people just like having separate chemicals so they can pick a solvent they like best and follow up with a lubricant they like best... even seen some people cleaning up with simple green and lubricating with mobil 1 synthetic and it does just about as good of a job
so its probably pretty safe to say if you diluted the solvents with an adequate lubricant i dont think youre going to lose out on the lubricating or cleaning abilities of either of them as separate.. sure you could use a more concentrated solvent, dry, and then lube which is actually the way i was taught to do things but i dont really see where a CLP style product is going to fit into a jack of all trades, master of one type scenario since the chemicals seem to work well, the solvent is plenty strong when diluted, and the content of the solvent in the lubricant if im not mistaken should work to inhibit corrosion and fouling
i really dont think you can go wrong either way, some people just like having separate chemicals so they can pick a solvent they like best and follow up with a lubricant they like best... even seen some people cleaning up with simple green and lubricating with mobil 1 synthetic and it does just about as good of a job
justin22885
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i really have no opinion, i think either could work fine.. as i stated earlier though im going to start working on coming up with my own, first as separate components and them possibly blend together as a CLP.. till then i think i'll just stick to using hoppes #9 solvent and a lube that protects well against corrosion
so in the mean time, im open to suggestions for a good lube/rust protector, i wonder how well lithium grease or silicone grease would work?
so in the mean time, im open to suggestions for a good lube/rust protector, i wonder how well lithium grease or silicone grease would work?
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