piller bedding rem 700

There are a few differing opinions on how to go about it. I'll get back to you later but am sure someone will be giving advice by then.

Methods vary on whether it is done on 1 step or 2 and how the pillars contact the action. If done in 2 steps the order may vary. The pillar is mainly to support the stock and give it a consistent resistance to the crush from the action screws. I would just go ahead and fully bed the action with the pillars.

What epoxy and mold release are you planning on using?

Don't try to fix a problem that does not exist. Sounds like it is shooting really well for an otc rifle.

Lafitte

"is it very beneficial to do bedding. I already can get sub moa 5 shot 100 yd groups, the best has been .4 inch? can I get that much more accurate? I shot one .75 inch group today, very windy and I was a little shakey"

Any one that gives you a simple answer without knowing more is full of it. I would take into account everything, even the shape of your group.

I have a 700 SPS with the plastic stock. I have shot some .250" groups @ 100 prone. Those are the best groups from Varget and Reloder 15 and not something I could bet on doing at will. That is a combination of the bedding, handloading, bipod, rear bag, conditions and me not impeding the rifle. A change in rear bag will open up groups. It is a diminishing returns type of thing going on. .500 to .375 is not nearly as difficult as .375 to .250 groups. My 700 is not exactly stock. I did a lot of work on the stock and it has a Jewell trigger. Handloads were a must in my opinion.

Bedding should either improve the groups, make them more consistent or have no ill effect if done correctly.

Like Lafitte says, sounds like a Rule Number 1 thing. If it works, don't fix it. Assuming those wee groups are consistent.
The pillar is mainly to actually separate the stock from the action. As daft as that sounds. Glass bedding does the opposite.

In my case: (from test years ago - I should be able to do better now. But these were the results the day I did it.)
no rear bag: add up to 1 MOA
Use cheap Remington bag from Walmart: add up to .5 MOA
Use a good Protektor: shot the best groups

There was an article I saw where the only thing a guy tested was rear bag fill material and noted a change in group sizes.

I shoot prone from the ground as that eliminates bench and stool problems.

"I load 4895 with a sierra match king 168. "
That was one of the questions I would ask, What bullet? Hand loads?
I shot some cheaper bullets than the SMK's and there was no way I could shoot as well with them as the SMK's.

In no way was I discounting the level you are achieving. I figure you are doing most things well to be getting the groups you are getting, especially if consistent.

I feel bedding would be a good project if you are willing to go through the effort. It is some work and expense.

I didn't remember the article correctly, no group sizes, but here it is:
http://www.6mmbr.com/sandcomparison.html
http://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/bag-sand-comparison-test/

Kennedy, what's your accuracy objective?

The load shoots the smallest single few-shot group?

Note the smallest groups happen when all the variables in the system (shooter + rifle + ammo) pretty much cancel each other out, or, when everything's at zero in its range of variables. Which one do you think happens most often?

Note that any rifle hand held by someone as it rests on something atop a bench or slung up in some other position is impeded by its shooter. All rifles shoot smallest groups when fired in a free recoiling position untouched by humans after the trigger's pulled.

How the rifle track & slips in the bag is part of it. When I changed rear bags I have no idea what they were filled with. Plus how the bipod is loaded, anything that can be done again with repeatability versus inconsistency can be an issue. A bipod lock may help. Even the stools at most places can induce a bit of error, which is why I just tend to shoot prone.