Grease or Oil? Read post first

Grease or Oil for wear points?

  • Grease

    Votes: 10 11.6%
  • Oil

    Votes: 32 37.2%
  • Depends

    Votes: 44 51.2%

  • Total voters
    86
  • Poll closed .
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I use CLP on just about everything, it works just fine on the weapons that our soldiers lives depend on. When I do use grease I only use Jet-Lube Marine Moly.
 
Thank you for taking time to explain. But I'm a little confused about your car analogy. Oil for example in a car is circulated which accounts for the usefulness of oil flushing out debris, but how much would that affect a firearm's function? Anecdotadly it seems like both grease and oil attract dirt to a firearm. By your description, it seems like the sponge effect is useful but then again I can see how on a sliding surface the grease might get redistributed and not cover all surfaces.

So in your opinion which is the appropriate lubrication for a sliding firearm part (slide rails, bolt carrier group, etc) That part wasn't very clear in your post. Lastly what is your opinion on frog lube and similar products?
Oil, as has been noted by others here, has a tendency to run away from the moving areas it is lubricating, necessitating its renewal at regular intervals. By flowing away from the wear points it will carry most, but not by any means all, of the entrapped dirt and debris. Grease, if not regularly completely removed, and replaced, will continue to pick up and hold dirt.

My opinion?

Follow the manufacturer's guidance. They made it, they should know the answers to those questions I asked.

Fortunately for me, most everything I have has a military TM, or is very similar to something with a TM, so I just follow that. Remember, the M16 has been in the military for 54 years, they have figured out the most cost effective way to keep it running in all conditions.

Are there better ways, I am sure there are, but I have neither the time nor inclination to try and re-invent the how to lubricate a wheel.
 
I've always used oil just because I know it will flow to cover all areas needed. As stated by others, it will also flow to areas not needed and disappears from the application site much sooner than grease, but I'd rather know I have full coverage and need to wipe some off than I would not be sure of. I imagine grease, if properly applied and of the right consistency would work at least as well, but it my mind it may need to be applied with more care to assure complete coverage. Since I've never used anything but oil though, I can't speak from the standpoint of actual experience.
 
Send that froglube to me, and I'll send you a packet of what you're supposed to use as a firearms lube in freezing temperatures.

Air.

:)

I don't know of any Armorers or Smiths, or manufacturers that recommend running wet lubes in fine mechanisms in freezing temperatures.

Again, matching lubricant to operating conditions of mechanisms ( as previously stated) is critical.

If you needed a sliding contact lubricant for freezing temperatures, there aren't many. I believe NATO countries all advise dry actions for frozen combat, but I could be wrong. Eastern Bloc countries where this is common run dry in the winter months.
 
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I use oil mostly but synthetic grease on sliding parts because it stays there. I don't gob it on, just a very light coat. The grease is supposed to be good at 0 degrees but I don't care. My firearm and I will both be where it is warm when it's that cold outside.
 
Just as an aside, the conversation about wheel bearings... just about every live axle vehicle uses gear oil to lubricate the wheel bearings... my 2009 Mustang certainly did. The front wheel bearings were greased, but the rear ones, were greased on install but otherwise cooled and lubricated by the gear oil.

In fact, looking back at it, the only things on that car that required grease were ball joints, tie rod ends, my bushings (poly bushings) and the front wheel bearings...

Now for firearms... I'd say "it depends". On an AR where it poops where it eats, oil, oil, oil... On an M1A/M1 Garand... grease all the things... On my bolt actions, grease the bolts. I'd probably use grease on a piston AR too... it seems to just work better. Tetra Gun Grease is some amazing stuff... the M1A cycles so smooth after a fresh coat of it.
 
Depends

I have to go with Depends. I have several stainless that love the CLP inside out. the same for most of my Blued. Even My old 1929 Winchester Mod 12 loves it inside, but prefers the old heavy grease outside. as do my waterfowl guns
 
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