Your preference, oil or grease on frame rails?

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Redlg155

Redlg155

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Lately I've been using Miltec grease on my frame rails of my SA1911, a departure from using oil exclusively throughout the entire pistol. Prior to this the only thing I used grease for was to quiet the spring on my AR15s. All of my other weapons use standard gun oils for lubrication.

Although I've only just begun using it It seems to be working very well. I guess time will tell as to how well this holds up and if it provides any additional lubrication/protection properties. My main concern was the grease picking up powder residue particles and/or dirt and acting as a "carrier".

Anyone else use grease and any pros/cons noticed?


Good Shooting
Red
 
I use grease on the rails.

Slide rails are actually pretty well protected, and don't seem to pick up fouling from firing much, and unless you're rolling around in the dust, they don't pick up dirt much either.

Oil's main problems are they tend to dry out, run off, and get pulled out by gravity and capillary action. It's not unusual to see lighter colored holsters that have the toe area soaked with oil that came out of the rails.

Whatever potential fouling problems grease might have, failure to stay put and lubricate aren't one of them.
 
My Wilson Combat and Kimber Gold Match 1911's, S&W model 41's and High Standard Citation and Victor have extremely tight slide to frame fit and all run better on Wilsons Ultima Lube Grease than anything else.
All firearms grease is not the same.
Modern light gun greases are not the same as WWII surplus rifle grease.
On a tightly fitted gun I especially want an effective lubricant that stays put.
These modern greases do that and I have seen no indication that they cause problems with functioning.
In fact, my experience has been the exact opposite. :)
 
Grease, because it will stay where put. Grease also does not have the tendency to splatter nor move to other places via capillary action like oil will. Grease is also better for long term storage of weapons.

Gumming-up of grease should not be an issue with well cared-for defensive weapons.
 
Keeping in mind that grease is basically oil suspended in soap, I don't think you can expect the oil part to not leach into a holster, like straight oil does. Body heat and capilary action will move some of it out.

Grease seems like a fine idea to add some frame-life saving buffer to a range gun. However, I wouldn't complicate the inside of a gun I'm carrying with anything but the lightest oil for the temperature. It may effect reliability more than running dry could.
 
I've been using grease, normally DSX, but also a generic molybdnum sulphide grease, for over 10 years on over 30 firearms, including rifles, shotguns, revolvers, and semi-autos.

The ONLY problems I have ever had have been when I have put too much grease in the actions and left the guns in the car in sub freezing temperatures for long periods of time. A different grease, with a different physical property, would be unaffected.

A thin film is all that is needed.

Greases tend to stay put, meaning that your gun will still be lubricated after one treated with oil is dry.

I tend to open my S&W revolvers for thorough cleaning only after several thousand rounds at a minimum. That may be as long as several years, depending on the gun.

Guns that I've opened after a year or more have still be properly lubricated when I applied grease.

Those lubricated with oil often come away with complete lubrication failure after as little as 4 months.
 
Because I clean my guns after every shoot, and only shoot 100 or so rounds per outing, I used to just oil the rails. Then last year I took the LFI course, and had several FTF's on the first day due to the oil having got gone. I got some Tetra lube that night, and had no problems the next day.
 
I use BreakFree CLP or RemOil on all my guns. If I'm going to the range,I'll put a little Lubriplate grease on the rails. What you clean and lube with is not nearly as important as cleaning and lubeing regularly.
 
I've conducted some tests of all the major lubes and greases for 2 factors... corrosion resistance and friction reduction. The winner in both catagories was FP-10. That's what I use now in my guns and my knives.
If I could pour it into my Jeep's engine, I would.
 
A man who has a sig p210 as a beater is a man who shouldn't be messed with.
Click to expand...

:D

Actually, the gun was a "beater" in the sense that it was already beat up on the outside when I bought it. That's how I was able to get it for under four digits. Stooopidly accurate and the trigger was like black magic. Wish I still had it.

BTW, I use FP-10 CLP now too. Works great and even smells nice.
 
Greasy Kid Stuff

For carry guns...a couple drops of a good oil twice a week in the
frame rails, and a drop in the sear/hammer hook area once a month or
so.

For heavy use range beaters, a fairly liberal dose of Lubriplate in
the rails, locking lugs, disconnector/cocking rail, slide stop pin,
and in the barrel bushing lug recess. A thin film of the stuff on the
barrel OD, and a dab on the hammer face.

New pistols get a dose of the Magic Goop. Makes'em feel like
they're runnin' on buttered glass. CLP Breakfree and J&B Bore
Cleaner mixed into a thin paste...coated heavily on all the areas
named above plus the link and lower lug. Hand-cycled 200 times,
rinsed out with Carburetor cleaner, and reapplied lightly for
200 rounds live-fire. Try it!

(The mixture should just sag on a screwdriver tip, but not drip off)

Cheers!
Tuner
 
Grease. I have some hi-temp blue stuff that works really well.

1911: Some on the rails, some on the barrel bushing, some in the locking lugs.

BHP: rails, shmear on the top of the barrel, locking lugs.
 
Grease on the rails and on some models in the trigger sear area,
Oil everywhere else.
I don't overdo either and have no problems.

Seems like there would be better thinkeners than soap for firearm greases.
That might be great in an automotive application but I wonder about firearms.

S-
 
Although I've only just begun using it It seems to be working very well. I guess time will tell as to how well this holds up and if it provides any additional lubrication/protection properties.
Click to expand...

There are several different tests (including several hosted on Militec's site) that show what kind of protection properties it has - none at all. Militec seems to be OK as a dry lube; but it fares very poorly at corrosion resistance.

Thought you might want to know before time told on that SA 1911.
 
I've used both w/ really good results. For me, as long as I clean & lube my guns after ever range session my guns work very well. I've never really torture tested any of my guns to find that point where I can tell the difference.
 
Militec seems to be OK as a dry lube; but it fares very poorly at corrosion resistance.
Click to expand...

The samples that they sent me were a standard gun oil type lubricant and a container of their grease. You kinda lost me on the dry lube thing. This is what miltec claims their grease will do.

Reduced maintenance, extended lubricating intervals, increased equipment life
Reduction in operating temperatures - typically 10°F to 25°F
Extended bearing life - as much as 35% to 50%
Reduces corrosion, wear and galling
Stays in place and lubricates in the most severe conditions
Extremely wide variety of applications
Compatible with other lithium complex greases
Versatile temperature ranges
Bearings remain lubricated even after the grease is used
Prevents rust and oxidation
Excellent water washout resistance
Superior shock-load protection

Some pretty good claims, but I don't think their grease will do anything more than anyone elses lithium type grease.

It was free..so I'll use it until it's gone. :D


Good Shooting
Red
 
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