Oil, or Grease

[SomeKid]

Regarding just general gun maintenance.

After cleaning, when you want to lube it up for use (like say a carry pistol, or a HD rifle), should I use oil or grease?

I initially learned to OIL my guns, all guns wherever metal touches metal. Recently I have had a few people tell me to use grease. At first, I was told just for my Garand, but now I am being told to use grease on ANY gun, regardless. Even on ARs.

Some have even said that oiling my guns will actually cause damage, and hearing it from multiple sources has made me wonder if I got it wrong somewhere.

Opinions, ideas, experience, and whatever is welcome. I need to know what the deal is on using oil vs grease for lubrication.

 

[RNB65]

I use a thin coating of oil (CLP) on all metal surfaces. I add a very thin layer of synthetic grease (Mobil 1) to the frame rails of pistols.

 

[dragongoddess]

For long term storage I would use grease. For a weapon that is used frequently like a pistol then oil. That's about all I know it my be nonsense.

 

[Master Blaster]

I am being told to use grease on ANY gun, regardless. Even on ARs.

Try it on an AR and let us know how many rounds you can fire before it jams, My guess is not many. The folks who make AR's recommend a light oiling.

Grease is designed to be used in closed systems, or to be changed frequently in an open system. Lithium soap which is the base material for almost all grease attracts moisture. Once moisture or grit gets into a grease fitting, you need to change the grease or you will have grinding compound that destroys the joint the grease is trying to protect and lubricate. Some types of Grease turn into glue in cold weather. So while Grease is ok for firearms and some like the Garrand were designed to use grease, you have to use the correct Grease, and you have to renew it often so it doesnt become grinding compound.

I dont use grease on any firearm unless the manufacturer recommends it. None of the manufacturers of the firearms I own recommend Grease, the manuals all say light lubrication with a gun oil.

 

[SomeKid]

So, the Garand gets the grease, but a wise way of doing things may be to grease it only before shooting, so it is good and fresh, and use oil for just storing? Or, use Grease for store/use, but clean the old out and put new on before going to the range?

What of pistols? Glock, Ruger P97, and 1911s specifically?

 

[real_name]

I have oiled my slides in the past on my Glock 34, Para Ordnance 1911 copy, Taurus 24/7, Walther P22.
But a week or two ago I started using a grease, RIG +P Stainless Steel Lube. It's rated for firearms, it can take the heat generated. I have had no problems so far but it is still an experiment I'm doing.
I apply a dab at the usual four points, then rack the slide about 10 times to bed it in.

 

[redneck2]

I use a thin coating of oil (CLP) on all metal surfaces. I add a very thin layer of synthetic grease (Mobil 1) to the frame rails of pistols.

Mobil 1 is a synthetic oil, not grease. Grease is oil with a thickener added.

Lithium soap which is the base material for almost all grease attracts moisture. Once moisture or grit gets into a grease fitting, you need to change the grease or you will have grinding compound that destroys the joint the grease is trying to protect and lubricate. Some types of Grease turn into glue in cold weather.

This is basically correct. Base thickeners in grease are typically lithium, lithium complex (most common), bentonite, aluminum complex, barium, and calcium sulfonate.

Basically, you only want to use grease anywhere that oil will not work. I would not use grease unless specifically recommended. I sell some of the best greases in the world, some that are over $250 per tube, but I'd still use oil on my firearms.

 

[RNB65]

Mobil 1 is a synthetic oil, not grease.

In that case, you'd better let Mobil know.

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENGRSMOMobil_1_Synthetic_Grease.asp

 

[MechAg94]

I only use grease on my M1A and Garands and then only on the rails of the op rod and bolt. On all my other firearms, I just use a light coating of oil. Meaning I oil it up and then wipe it off leaving a fine film of oil on the surface. If you put too much oil, it attracts debris and leads to malfunction. I tried to use grease on my 1911 and it only led to problems. It would work in the short term, but if you picked it up 2 weeks later and tried to shoot it, it would gum up the action and not work well. My AR will malfunction if you oil it too heavily. That was a lesson I had to learn.

 

[lwrnc1963]

I used to use oil but have switched to Tetra synthetic grease for everything and so far have had good results. I still use CLP for wiping down the outside surface of my guns to prevent rust.

 

[SomeKid]

RIG +P Stainless Steel Lube.

real_name, funny thing, that is the exact type of grease I picked up before I started this thread.

Looks like my Garand gets it, but no other guns.

 

[dfaugh]

For many years I never used anything but oil, and never had any problems with excesive wear, including guns that were used alot. I have, however found that there's a few places where a little bit of white lithium grease is good, as it "sticks" in place better...But I'm talking areas like the trigger surfaces on my Mausers...Nothing too close to the firing mechanism, as I suspect that'll be a dirt magnet.

 

[distra]

I've been using a llittle Miltech Grease on my newly refinished commander. The frame paint on the rails was slowing the slide a touch with some of my lighter reloads. I just touch my pinky to the Miltech grease and apply to frame rails. A dab of Miltech oil on the slide grooves and it will cycle with my 3.5gr bullseye 230gr TMJ reloads.

 

[JohnBT]

In no particular order, I like RIG, RIG +P, TW-25B, Shooter's Choice All Weather High-Tech, Wilson Combat Grease and Grease/Oil mix, Tetra and a couple others I can't think of right now. Different lubes for different applications, including handguns. And Lubriplate if that's all I have handy.

I thought everybody used grease on bolt action locking lugs. You should if you're not. And although most people use grease on O/U and SxS hinges, some extremely knowledgable folks do use oil.

I'm not going to tempt fate and change my ways after 40 years and no problems.

John

 

[stevelyn]

I pretty much use Break-Free CLP for lube and rust protection although I've been playing with Bullfrog for exterior rust protection.
For the rare instances that I use grease, I use Brownell's Action Lube Plus.

 

[rbernie]

Don't use grease on the rails of a 22LR blowback pistol or you may find yourself clearing a lot of stoppages.

I went thru a grease phase and now I'm back to where I started twenty-five-some-odd years ago; CLP. Works great, lasts a long time, and hardly ever fails.

 

[bogie]

Where you _REALLY_ need to use grease (and a good high pressure grease at that...) is on your bolt lugs if you shoot a centerfire rifle. Put a little on the "back" side of each one before you insert the bolt. This keeps it sliding smoothly, and keeps it from galling when you turn it to extract a just-fired shell. I usually use grease that comes packed in a SYRINGE for this, just because the little tips are easier to use...

 

[Sleeping Dog]

For M1 (or M14), use grease not oil on the bolt/oprod area. Otherwise it throws oil back on your glasses.

Regards.

 

[10-Ring]

A tiny drop of oil is all I use when I'm done cleaning my guns.

 

[redneck2]

Where you _REALLY_ need to use grease (and a good high pressure grease at that...) is on your bolt lugs if you shoot a centerfire rifle.

I'd buy that. I was thinking more in terms of slides on autos and particularly in the firing pin mechanisms of bolt and auto rifles. A good grease with teflon or particularly molybdenum would be great on bolt lugs. I use aluminum complex high moly grease on the breech plug in my Knight.

When I worked in the gun shop, we'd occasionally have guys that went hunting in cold weather. If they used grease in the firing pin, sometimes the gun wouldn't fire because the grease would thicken too much in cold weather.

As already noted, lithium is particularly bad about mixing with water. Once the water gets mixed, the lithium grease traps it against the metal and promotes corrosion. What's really weird is that most "wheel bearing" grease is lithium and about the worst for that application.

Ever wonder why you see boat trailers along side of the road with the wheel bearings burned out?? Take about a marble sized dab of lithium grease in the palm of your hand and add a little water, then mix it with your finger. In about 5-10 seconds it turns to mush. That mush is what's supposed to be lubricating the bearings.

Now you know.