Pietta Navy 51 cylinder stuck

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sandy4570

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I need some advice on my Pietta Navy 51. It is 15 years old and I just notice that the cylinder is very difficult to remove or put it back on. I have to twist and pull the cylinder hard to get it off the arbor and do the same thing to get it back on . It gets very difficult where the thread starts on the arbor once I can push it pass that it will slip right on . My load is 30 grains of Pyrodex P and round balls and I use wonder wads and sometime beeswax and Crisco mixed . I don't recall ever abuse this revolver , never buffalo anyone with it , or use it as a hammer any sort of that nature. I swapped the cylinder with other Brass frame Navy and it went in just fine. Is it a good idea to remove some metal off the cylinder ? Or should I get a new cylinder to put it on . What cause this to happen ? binding or bending arbor ? but how that possible ?
 
I am certainly no expert on anything. But I have noticed on my BP handguns that choke up and lock on the mandrel a common problem.
The cylinder gap between the chamber mouth at the barrel throat have increased allowing too much residue to by pass the boss. Check the cylinder gap. Also check the depth of the wedge. Good luck.:)
 
First off 30 grs. is an over load for a Navy (.36) am assuming it is one of those .44s !
If another cylinder is ok the arbor should be fine. Sure it is not dragging on the water table (frame) Try a bore brush in cylinder and get it shined up
 
If you used vegetable oil to lube it, and it has set a while that can cause issues. Clean it real good to get the old grease off, then grease it up, and try again.
 
Yea, he might be is using the wrong term. The term 'Navy' in Colt language means 36 caliber. So there is no such animal as a '51 Navy Colt in 44 caliber and it is also very confusing. Pietta does offer a fantasy '51 Colt revolving belt pistol in Army caliber or to simplify, a '51 Colt in Army caliber.
 
Just need a bit of clarification...when you did the cylinder swap, are you saying that the "problem" cylinder went onto the brass framed gun's arbor smoothly, or are you saying that the cylinder from the brass framed gun goes onto the "problem" arbor smoothly?
 
Pietta uses the term "Confederate" to denote a .44 Colt Navy from the .36 Navy. Their choice, don't know if it's historically accurate or not.

And if his is a brasser confederate, 30grs is way too much. I limit mine to 24grs.
 
WHEN YOU SHOOT HEAVY LOADS THE WEDGE WILL BATTER THE SLOT IN THE ARBOR CAUSING IT TO SWELL. A LITTLE TOUCH P AROUND THE EDGES OF THE SLOT WILL HELP YOUR PROBLEM. 30 GRS IS A BIT MUCH.
NOT YELLING. THE CAPS LOCK KEY IS STUCK.
 
Noz said:
WHEN YOU SHOOT HEAVY LOADS THE WEDGE WILL BATTER THE SLOT IN THE ARBOR CAUSING IT TO SWELL. A LITTLE TOUCH P AROUND THE EDGES OF THE SLOT WILL HELP YOUR PROBLEM. 30 GRS IS A BIT MUCH.
NOT YELLING. THE CAPS LOCK KEY IS STUCK.
Click to expand...
noz if I may ask, is this only for brass frame or does it even apply to steel fame revolvers??
 
J-Bar said:
Just need a bit of clarification...when you did the cylinder swap, are you saying that the "problem" cylinder went onto the brass framed gun's arbor smoothly, or are you saying that the cylinder from the brass framed gun goes onto the "problem" arbor smoothly?
Click to expand...
Yes, when I swap the cylinders between this two , the problem solve. I want to keep original cylinder with the gun because it has this fancy engraving on .
I went back and check the powder flask sprout closely and the one that I used often in the pass 10 years is actually 25 grains , I only start using 30 grains last week. I clean and oil the arbor real good using Balitol and Rand CLP it seems to help a bit.
 
Take the cylinder off the frame, clean the arbor and the cylinder where they run together.
Paint the arbor with machinist blue (or a felt pen). Reassemble the cylinder onto the arbor, then remove it and check for worn spots in the blue, indicating the tight fit area. Gently file/stone down the high spot(s).
Repeat as required. Remove bluing with acetone.
 
SHIPCHIEF said:
Take the cylinder off the frame, clean the arbor and the cylinder where they run together.
Paint the arbor with machinist blue (or a felt pen). Reassemble the cylinder onto the arbor, then remove it and check for worn spots in the blue, indicating the tight fit area. Gently file/stone down the high spot(s).
Repeat as required. Remove bluing with acetone.
Click to expand...
I am going to try this method , thank you very much for the advice.
 
To clarify, if the problem is due to the arbor wedge slot deforming you want to take metal off the arbor not the cylinder, correct?
 
Don't put too much pressure on the arbor as you dress it down. It's staked into the frame but too much side pressure can loosen it. A wiggly arbor can cause other problems. I fixed one, would rather not do another. Hold the arbor itself, not the frame, while you polish it down.
 
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