Rebarrel an Arisaka?

I made a bushing for the new Win M70 take off 25-06 barrel from Ebay I am putting on the Arisaka I got last week. I cut 1.5mm threads on the barrel with an inches lead screw. Now I have to time the extractor relief cut in the M70 barrel with the extractor race in the receiver. I am making a 257 Roberts out of it.

Interesting project Clark and thanks for the pictures.

11 days I don't have this thing shooting yet. I ordered a Timney trigger. That is holding up the rear pillar design. I ordered a Weaver #70 one piece scope base, that is holding up the drill and tap the receiver.

boom boom said:

Interesting project Clark and thanks for the pictures.

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I am 3 weeks into this

Thanks for the machinist's sketch. Always nice to have specifics on receivers to go into my project files.

4 weeks after purchase, getting closer

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This gun was professionally sporterized wrong... I needed to fix it. The bottom metal was not mating with the top. I want them to mate with 0.020" clearance so the stock is firmly clamped between them. The 1941 Japanese Kokura Arsenal 7.7mm barrel was shot out from corrosive primers.
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Replaced 7.7 Japanese barrel with 25-06 Win M70 Take off barrel, re chambered 257 Roberts, cut 1.5mm pitch metric threads on barrel
Removed peep sight.
Removed safety
Removed trigger
Drilled and tapped receiver with (4) 6-48 holes
Drill out Weaver S#35 scope base for gas hole escape vent
Mill out with boring bar for height Weaver S#54 scope base
Mill out receiver, bottom metal, and stock for Timney trigger
Mill out glass bedding.
Make pillars and bed into place
Re bed action

Your project looks like its coming along excellently Clark! I like the rechamber to .257

Nice work Clark, the .257 Bob is one of the few sporting calibers that I want to acquire in a future rifle and your work is always informative and slick. A question if you don't mind, do you normally slick up the military triggers or do you go to Timney and the like. My rifles are in original configuration, but I aim to start shooting in milsurp shooting matches. So if you have any secrets on slicking up military triggers, I am all ears and I have quite a few Arisakas to start.

All you have to do to see one reason as to why the type 38 6.5MM action was so strong is this: Set a type 38 bolt next to a 98 bolt, or a 1903 or a 1917. Look at the left lug on the type 38. It is NOT cut down the middle for the ejector, thereby weakening it. The others are. Also look at the sheer size of the lugs, the type 38s are about 50% larger in size! More contact area to bear the load.

I see the words "last ditch" a lot. There were no "last ditch" type 38 rifles, those were all later type 99s. The "last ditch" rifles weren't any less safe than the standard rifles, they are just uglier. They had to pass the same proof test the standard guns did.

I consider the safeties on the Arisaka rifles to be among the best and easiest to use. They can be disengaged silently, with a flick of the thumb as the rifle is shouldered for the shot. If they are slightly awkward to apply, who cares? One has all the time in the world to place the safety ON !!!!

Use the palm of your hand to engage and disengage the safety. This was the Japanese way from what I understand.

Re-chamber rather than re-barrel, in my opinion. Go simple: 6.5x 57. Brass readily reformed from 7x57 or 8x57. Dies available from Hornady, RCBS, and Redding.

I took the barrel off my arisaka project reciever last week (that was fun, ended up having to cut a relief groove) and i was surprised how light the reciever actually is. Much lighter than my comparably sized savage short action, which i also had apart again lol. Ive got all the parts loose actually maybe ill go weigh them.....

With the cost of arisaka barreled actions in the 80-120 range i may snag another for more projects later, being med length action they fit some of the "in between" cartridges perfectly.

My scheme to get the Arisaka type 99 vent hole on top of the receiver to vent through the scope base and scope ring.
The cross bar in a Millet Angle Loc ring does not go all the way across. There is a hollow cavity that I vent to the front, away from the shooter.

My father, the gun designer, once told me that the gas [going through one small passage into a large volume and out another small passsage] acts as a delay line in time. Hence the ringed grooves and gas piston in a FAL. My father is not around to ask any more. That large cavity inside the scope ring may act as an impedance to venting.

I put in an Uncle Mike's sling stud, a bipod, and it is ready to shoot.

Arisaka type 99 sporterized 7.7 jap $125.00 $12 =$137
01/13/17 FFL 1941 Kokura Arsenal

Jan 21 http://www.midwayusa.com/product/18...panese-arisaka-with-safety-1-1-2-to-4-lb-blue
Timney Featherweight Rifle Trigger 7.7mm Japanese Arisaka with Safety 1-1/2 to 4 lb Blue
Timney #: 313 $84.94

Ebay Jan 06, 2017 $75.00 + $20.00 shipping =$95
WINCHESTER Model 70 FEATHERWEIGHT 25-06 REM Barrel 22" NEW TAKEOFF Gloss

Devcon steel putty epoxy ... on hand
3/8" steel tube for pillars..., on hand
Uncle Mike's sling stud... on hand
Weaver Steel scope base #54... on hand
Weaver Steel scope base #46... on hand
Millet angle lock scope rings low.... on hand
257 Roberts reamer... on hand

1.4" eyepiece scope ordered for Arisaka with bolt welded with tight curve for Redfield rear peep sight.
Leupold 120617 vx2 rimfire EFR CDS 3x9x33 $364.99 2—17-2017 www.gunprodeals.com

FeelRight 9-13 inch Heavy Duty Notched Legs Solid Base Bipod Pivoting with Pod-Lock for Swivel Style Hunting Shooting Bipod
2-16-2017 $49.86 Chinese clone of Harris swivel bipod
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CU6FG6Y
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$732

Most of the money was getting a scope with a 1.4" diameter eye piece that would fit the way the bolt had been welded.

That's really cool Clark, nice build. That Scope IS close to the bolt handle, ill have to make sure I get the handle lower on the one im messing with.

Thanks for sharing your build and the pertinent info!

Many of the "flaws" of the M1903 arise from one single reason. At the time the M1903 was under development, the Ordnance Department was under the control of target shooters. While they were certainly not ignorant of nor blind to safety concerns, they were fixated on a slick (hard) and smooth action for rapid fire and smooth feeding. That single minded approach got them into trouble. The poor safety lug design resulted in a high receiver which in turn resulted in a high sight position for both rear and front sights with a result that a good "spot weld" was difficult to achieve. The attempt to produce a glass hard receiver for a smoother bolt action resulted in receivers that were brittle. The cone breech (which actually exposes less of the case than most folks think) was yet another attempt to make feeding smoother. The M1905 sight was a total abomination that had no place on a military rifle, but was excellent for shooting at a black-on white bull's eye on a sunny day.

Jim

P.S. Question for "Captain Crossman": I'm not sure what small pin you mean. Nothing holds the firing pin rod (the back part) to the bolt sleeve; with the front part (striker, spring and sleeve) removed, the firing pin rod is simply pulled back and out of the sleeve. The locking of the firing pin rod and striker is sufficient to keep the firing pin rod from becoming a rather unpalatable meal for the shooter.

Jim

Reading all this stuff makes me appreciate the M38 carbine that I once had but was given away without me knowing about it. It had a the original markings that were not ground off and two vent holes on the top of the receiver ring in a V type arrangement. The stock was made from 3 pieces of wood having a dove tail arrangement. The sheet metal receiver cover, floor plate, follower, and spring were missing. It had polygonal rifling and looking into the barrel the bore looked almost square.

Remembering stuff about the 03 Springfield I can't see any pin that held the 2 piece firing pin together - just a connector. As far as any pinned connection between firing pin and bolt shroud I don't see how that would work as it would immobilize the firing pin making it fixed. Thinking back on all this I have seen Springfield 03's or 03 actions used for target rifles, re-barreled to .308 and valued because of smooth feeding in rapid fire events

Jim K said:

Many of the "flaws" of the M1903 arise from one single reason. At the time the M1903 was under development, the Ordnance Department was under the control of target shooters.

Jim

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My father got a marksmanship badge with a 1903 in WWII. When he got out he bought a 1903 at Sears while on unemployment and building a house. The next year he got a job a Paccar Renton. He designed the equilibrator for the M55. That made him chief engineer for 40 years. He designed a lot of guns, but the only thing that would sell was responding to Detroit Arsenal requests for quotes. Rock Island Arsenal wanted it their way, and even then only gave small research contracts. I argued with my father. He liked the 1903. I did not like the 1903 sights at all. I liked the sights on a Garand. My father said the Garand was clumsy. When I was a little kid in the early 60s there was a book at the library that said that the 1903 was a copy of 98 Mauser, and where it was not copied it was a mistake with a two piece firing pin.

Here is a pic of my late father's 1903. I gave it to my brother.

I am now 65 and buying guns. I bought a Colt Camp Perry today. Today I am also building a Sav 110 223. The guns I like to hunt with and rebarrel are; Win M70 pre 64, 98 Mauser, Rem700, Sav110, 91/30 Mosin Nagant, 1885 Winchester....and I have not done this one yet, a Sav 219.

I just measured how far cartridges hung out past the flat barrel face in a controlled feed action. I got .113 for my FN Mauser, J.C. Higgins M50 and .125 for a Ruger M77 MKII. The push feed Remington 700 bolt face completely encloses the back end of the cartridge so (1) end of bolt, (2) recess in barrel, & (3) receiver ring. Reading this Arisaka stuff makes me appreciate that rifle more - now I can appreciate why it had a much different chambering arrangement.