1903/A3 ?

I don't know the cost of a new barrel. You might want to look at a gunbroker type site. Mine is from 1943 and is a great accurate shooter that's all original but the stock. I just put an unissued scant stock on it. The bolt should have no play.

ford8nr said:

Was at my local Cabelas today and spotted several A3's in the rack (among other rifles). Looks like they bought an estate would be my guess by the cross section of rifles. Any how was interested in one, full custom target stock, target sights and shot out (smooth bore) barrel for $299. Figured a rebarrel and I'd be good. Then I started comparing bolt gaps on the rear lug (?) and the fact the bolt could be pushed forward slightly when closed and locked. ?
So school me on 1903's please

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I wouldn't worry about the bolt. The "back lug" is just a safety lug and had lots of clearance between the lug and rear receiver ring...that is normal. This Smith Corona A3 is original and at least 95%. Picture shows the back lug w/a dime inserted behind the lug to illustrate the norm:



There is also a few thousandths of play when bolt closed. That is normal, as well.

There would be no collector value of a rifle that has "target stock and sights", but if it is an A3 I would imagine a new barrel would make it a nice shooter.

Regards,
hm

ford8nr said:

the bolt could be pushed forward slightly when closed

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I think theres info in Hatcher's notebook, that some old bolt action do that.

Most A3 receivers are pretty tough and it is probably fine--excessive headspace can be taken care of with a new barrel and probably worth getting a new bolt body as well. However, if you are worried about it, and the seller allows, see if you can use an led borelight and a small angled mirror to observe the locking lugs. If you have a good sense of touch, you can do with your hands, what you do not want is lug setback which can happen (unlikely but possible)--you will feel it as a slight depression in the locking lugs or something like burrs, grooves, etc. While A3 receivers are pretty hard all the way through and not case hardened like the older models, it might require a more expensive fix than you might be willing to spend depending on the degree needed to smooth it out. As hps said it, the safety lug should not be touching. However, at $299, you are basically purchasing an action and a sporter stock. From what I've seen on action auctions on Gunbroker, A3 actions run from $200-400 depending on whether the receivers were tapped, rare variants, original finish condition, drill rifle restoration etc. Springfield sporter stocks have to be pretty nicely figured wood to bring very much.

A lot depends on whether you want it as a sporter or to restore it to military configuration. Criterion makes a 1903/a3 short chambered military configuration barrel for about $200. Sarco in Firearms News/Shotgun News keeps advertising them for a bit less. There are some WWII era barrels in brand new condition that range about $200-250. The rest of the parts for a military restore are available right now.

Sporters, you will probably have to use a military barrel which may be aesthetically ugly (typically parkerized, little or no polishing, etc.) or have a gunsmith use a barrel blank/military type and create a custom barrel. Springfields, like Enfields, have a coned breech, square threads, and cuts for the extractor which is a bit extra work for a gunsmith compared with a Mauser barrel and priced as such.

this remington 03A3 with a four groove barrel in ex condition was converted to a match rifle and came with a batch of rifles i bought at a friends estate sell, his dad had the sights put on with out altering the full military stock. i have shot 2" five shot groups at 100 yards from a rest on a good day. and my rifle,s bolt has the same things your rifle shows and i think it,s ok. eastbank.

Are you sure the bore is shot out - and not just badly fouled?

While A3 receivers are pretty hard all the way through and not case hardened like the older models

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M1903A3 receivers were made out of modern alloy steels, most of them 8620 steel, which is totally appropriate for the application. The predominate rifle steels around WW1 were plain carbon steels and hardened erratically. Might be hard all the way through, might not. Alloy steels were deep hardening so the properties are the same all the way through. Very cheap, low pressure, pre 1920 ish rifles were made out of plain carbon steels with very low carbon content. Case hardening raised the surface carbon to a higher level, which basically provided enough strength to withstand an impact. Case also provided a hard, wearing surface. Even though 8620 does not need case hardening for strength, those M1903A3 receivers were case hardened to reduce wear.

When you get to WW2, metallurgy is a mature science, process controls are well understood. Because of that, a M1903A3 receiver is a good strong receiver.

An old friend from my days of shooting on the IPSC circuit surprised me. He dropped off a little worn but excellent Remington 1903A3 vintage 1943. He wanted me to have his rifle.
I had long admired the old .03A3 rifle. He had used it as a member of the Arizona Guard Rifle team. Old rifles and Old friends.

Who's the manufacturer? If it's a National Ordnance or Santa Fe, just move on.

ford8nr said:

Yup, clean and mirror shiney with a hint of rifling

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I have two 1903s (not A3s) that both look like they have almost no rifling. Both shoot really well. If you compare them to any of my Mausers or Mosins, they look like smoothbores. It takes a lot of work to "shoot out" all of the rifling in a barrel that's 24" long.

Matt

If it comes down to needing a barrel they are available from Criterion Barrels as long as you are not trying o get the rifle correct. The Criterion barrels shoot just fine and if you want you can run with a .308 Winchester rather than the original 30-06 Springfield chambering. The barrels are indexed making for an easy swap for any smith and also short chambered so a pull through finishing reamer can be used for final chamber cut. Pretty much a matter of where you want to go with it.

Mine is a Remington which I have not shot in several years. Shot well last time I had it out, just not a rifle I shoot all that often.

Ron

You are a good guy Dog Soldier. That's why people give you rifles.

Zeke

ford8nr said:

Yup, clean and mirror shiney with a hint of rifling

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I'd slug the barrel to be sure of what you already have.

$299 for the rifle and maybe 300 for the rifle. For a little more you can find a nice 03A3. There will be little, if any, difference in accuracy. Unless you want one set up for target shooting.

Have owned a number of A3's over the years and most would shoot under 2 MOA w/good ammo, even the 2 groove Remington barrels. ETA: (Bought 2 from DCM through NRA program in the '50s; the last one for $12.00 IIRC. The first was new in cosmoline and the second new in sealed foil.)

Built this target rifle to duplicate the "feel" of the Mod. 70 target rifles I was shooting at the time. The better barrel & trigger and Redfield target sights would shoot sub MOA off a rest, but the slower lock time of the stock A3 action consistently resulted in a POI one ring outside of call offhand.




Only other difference was that, as would be expected, the action was not as smooth as the well worn Mod. 70's.

Regards,
hps

I just saw on the Smith and Wesson forum a USGI 03A3 barrel for sale $200.00. Still full of cosmoline.
Try this link. It's in the accessories for sale forum.
http://smith-wessonforum.com/access...s-usgi-1903a3-rifle-barrel-more-holsters.html

For old school, you go shop for a cal..30 MG barrel (1919A1 run about $100-150). Gunsmith cuts the contour you want (the MG barrels have no sights).
But, as pointed out above, $450-600 ought to get you a ready-to-go copy from a bunch of places.
And there's quite the argument about buying a copy that's already been sporterized.