JeffG
Member
I'm with DogSoldier. His advise in this thread is dead on. Spend the penny, you will be happier later.
My smoothbore is a Wilson's Trade gun replica that was made up by Caywood. I shot it for years in the original configuration and on a whim decided to shorten the barrel and add a rear sight. A friend that is a great black powder gun builder made up the rear sight for me and soldered it on. It is a lightweight fun little muzzleloader that will stay with me for the rest of my days now.That is a Fusee De Chase/ Cow's Foot shortened for horse back after 1820. Great story great choice in Rock Guns. Thx for your post.
I'm starting to form the opinion that some of these imports are only good for re-enactors and casual use. I did know a man that had a CVA flintlock he hunted squirrel with, But he didn't use it that often. I do really want a smooth bore though..
If I was in that neck of the woods I'm sure I could find one that would do just fine. But if you're getting handmade it just makes more sense to me to get it local. TOWs' kit is good start probably. One Indian shop posted a test of their lock. It was okay but in that price range I'll take a CVA whatever and start learning with that. Heck even a plastic stocked one. As long as we can take it down and clean it.If you're talking about the Indian made pot metal gun you have your eye on, that would be a correct assessment.
I really wouldn't mind having a gun made in India with a return policy, which they do have. But I'd rather pay a premium for a nice repro from Uncle Dave that somebody can put hands on and deliver to me in days, not months.
DogSoldier - where did you read/learn that the Indians removed the snake sideplates?
IF you're referring to the link the OP posted, there is nothing on that particular gun that is "pot metal" or close to it.If you're talking about the Indian made pot metal gun you have your eye on, that would be a correct assessment.
Withdraw your ramrod and return it to the thimbles of your rifle. Now cradle the rifle in your left arm with your left hand gripping the wrist, thumb over the wrist, muzzle to the left and pointed in a safe direction, somewhat like Fig. C. This position presents the pan and frizzen area for your inspection and manipulation. (Note: if you are at a match, use a position that keeps that muzzle down range, or make sure you stand side ways.)
Now, set the cock at the first notch (half cock) and close the frizzen down over the feather, helping to hold it in the touch hole. Into the forest you go, looking warily for game or foe.
We should note here that spit patches were not used unless they were to be fired immediately, such as at a rifle match. A spit-patched ball will leave a rust ring in the bore if it remains in place a few hours.
Priming: So far, you are loaded but not primed. You spot your game or target. Gently push your frizzen forward and pull the feather out of the touch hole. This will clear the touch hole and may pull a few grains of powder into the pan. Prime your pan, close the frizzen, set the cock at full, aim, and fire.
From: http://www.muzzleblasts.com/archives/vol4no4/articles/mbo44-2.shtml
Those .62 PRB's can be pretty effective. With a reasonable charge, they just zing through most animals. I've shot deer and hogs with mine and always get a good hole on both sides.View attachment 230176
Do you think your target / game is gonna stand there while you perform this crazy woods ritual with a feather, A ha....unbelievable.....another beginner obviously with not much actual hunting experience.....proof anyone can write an article or make a video