New to reloading

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SSGMANN

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Just getting into reloading my own ammunition. Looking around there are so many choices, pertaining to products, single, turret, progressive etc. I planned on using my own brass, then it gets into tumblers, cleaning. Then theres powder, primers all gets very over whelming!
Right now I only plan to reload .223/5.56, 9mm,45ACP, maybe 300BLK, and 6.5x55swedish. Really depends on what I shoot the most and would be cost effective. Pertaining to my 1905 M38 Mauser, I really started looking into reloading for that one, and .223/5.56.

So just looking for guidance into getting started.
 
The best way to get started at reasonable cost is to buy a Lee kit. Add brass, bullets, power, primers, and you have everything you need. Not everything you will eventually want, but everything you need. Many powders will work in .223/5.56. Many will work in 9MM and .45, with picking one for both being pretty easy. 300 BLK will use something different than .223, and ditto for 6.5 Swede. Bullet selection depends on the use for the loads.

Welcome to THR
 
If you shoot 9MM, 45 ACP .223 weekly or more you need a progressive press such as a Dillon 650. Look at presses with five stations so you can add a powder check die.
You will need a single stage press to learn on, and they prep rifle brass easier and fix mistakes. Reseating primers, pulling bullets, sizing operations for the rifle.
Try and find a local shooter who reloads. Try and get some hands on lessons.
 
I started out simple since we were full time RVers volunteering for various Federal and State agencies. I bought a Lee Hand Press and did all of it inside the trailer.
We just bought a small mobile home in Yuma AZ in December and I bought a Lee single press. It is more time consuming than a progressive but this is the stage I am in right now. I reload 380, 9, and 9x18 Makarov. I used to also do .40 and 38/357.
I would suggest starting with a single press. Eventually when I gather more and more experience I may upgrade but I find the single press gives me more control over the process.
Just my opinion from a new 1 year reloaded.
 
well down the wonderful rathole of reloading/handloading from someone fairly new to it too (less than a year)

It's a lot of fun and you'll really enjoy it.

That said, there are lots of things you can do and all sorts of opinions and suggestions.

That said, first, ALWAYS BE SAFE. When in doubt stop, ask, and be sure you're doing things safely.

After that, learn the basics.

My suggestion is to get a good reloading book (I like the Lee book), watch a bunch of videos, and read all you can on the web.
DO NOT take anyone's load data off of the web without confirming it via multiple sources.

Once you get the basics down, then decide on a good basic set of equipment. You can do this either by buying a kit which will have al of the basic stuff, or you can buy a press, scale, dies, and calipers a little at a time as budget allows. Neither is right or wrong, but know as you learn you'll be buying a few more things that will make things easier for you.

since you mention 223 and 9mm I'd suggest you look at the Lee Classic Turret press (avoid the other Lee Turret press). I suggest this as you can use it like a single stage press then as you learn start using it as a semi progressive. I'd avoid progressive presses until you decide you enjoy loading and you're at a point that you can't make ammo fast enough with the Turret.

If you don't like that option then pick up a Lee or RCBS single stage and start their. It won't be a waste of money as you'll use it even after you add another press. In my case, I have a Lee hand press and the Classic Turret.

As for tumblers, etc. there are lots of ways to clean your brass. Again, some research will help you decide on the best way for you. I personally use a cleaning solution to soak my brass, deprime, clean again, then load. It's not the most efficient way but it's cheap and it works well.

So those are a few basics, and I'm sure others will jump in. But as you know you have to start someplace.
 
For starters my favorite press setup is a Lee classic turret press. Holds 4 dies and indexes to the next die with each pull of the handle and has a very effective priming system. For doing 9mm and 45 acp in high volume it really speeds things up. If you want to load single stage just take the indexing part out which takes 5 seconds and its now a single stage that you can rotate from the sizing die to the seating die manually. Buy an extra turret ($10) for each caliber and you never have to adjust dies again.

The equipment I would buy to start out with 9mm or 45 acp is;

Lee Classic turret press,
Lee auto drum powder measure
Lee Safety prime to put on the press
Lee carbide 4 die set for 9mm and 45acp
A quality cast iron magnetic dampened beam scale (look on ebay for older ones from RCBS, Redding, Pacific, ect...)
pair of cheap digital calipers
A cheap hammer type bullet puller to fix your mistakes

When you are ready to start doing rifle you can add the following

Hornady 2 die set for 223, 300blk, and 6.5x55
case trimmer of choice (Forrester, Lee quick trim, rcbs, ect...)
hand case deburing tool
case lube (I like RCBS case lube pad best)
a manual powder trickler
a bench mounted powder measure (RCBS uniflow, hornady, or just get an electronic powder dispensor)

You do not need a case tumbler when you are just starting out or ever really. For years I just cleaned cases with some acetone on a paper towel. As you get comfortable you will get a feel for what equipment you want to add to help you with the tasks that you feel your spending too much time on. The equipment above will allow you to reload any cartrige you will come across in the future.
 
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If you shoot 9MM, 45 ACP .223 weekly or more you need a progressive press such as a Dillon 650. Look at presses with five stations so you can add a powder check die.
You will need a single stage press to learn on, and they prep rifle brass easier and fix mistakes. Reseating primers, pulling bullets, sizing operations for the rifle.
Try and find a local shooter who reloads. Try and get some hands on lessons.

Why do you say he "NEEDS" a progressive?

It seems you posted while I was typing my reply.

I'm not busting on you, but not everyone can afford a progressive, or might want to get one to start. When I was looking I thought I'd get a progressive, but as I did research I decided it was a BAD IDEA to start on a progressive. In fact, I did what rvenneman suggested, and got the Lee Hand press to start.

I used it a few times and decided I wanted something faster, and hence got the Lee Classic Turret. I still use the hand press to deprime, and to resize brass. I also love that I can use it anywhere and have the flexibility to take it with me wherever I want to go.

Now I agree the progressive is much faster, but until someone is doing several hundred rounds a week or more why not get some less expensive gear, then add as he gets comfortable? Learn the basics, then decide what works, what doesn't and what can make things better to meet his needs?
 
Welcome to the best hobby ever !

In your shoes I'd do things in this order....
• You can't reload without brass. So start picking up every single piece of brass (not aluminum, not steel) you see. Even if it doesn't fit one of your guns, you can trade it for some that does. Reloaders define 'a great day of shooting' as firing 100 rounds, and coming home with 400 cartridge cases !!
Ask at your range, ask at your work place, ask at church... "Do you reload?" The media has given gun owners such a bad rep in the last 10 years that reloaders tend to be fairly quiet people. Once placed small note on my work place bulletin board "Reloaders call x4567". 10 reloaders called and another 5 that wanted to get started... and I had known them all for years.
• You want to know who reloads so you can get a local mentor. There's nothing quite like seeing it done and getting a chance to pull the handle yourself. It's sort of like sex... you can read 20 books, but until...
• If you are really lucky, then you will discover someone local to you that reloads. Then you can ask...
- If I bring my own components, can I use your equipment under your supervision ?
- I'm planning on reloading W, X, Y & Z, which of those calibers are on your list to buy ? OK, so if I buy a similar press, if you borrow my X reloading dies, can I borrow your Y dies ? Each of you just saved $30 to $100 !!
- Can you tell me next time you place an order so I can jump in ? (More savings !)
• If a pal doesn't show up, then cast around on the range bulletin board for someone selling used equipment. There are plenty of old timers aging out, that simply want to see their collection go to a good home. You could score an entire pickup truck load for the price of a press.

So you may not even need to buy any equipment for the first year, and even if you finally do buy, you'll be so far over the learning "hump" that buying duplicate (even expensive) reloading equipment may be the better choice.

Hope this helps.

PS. Placing your locale in your profile will help us find you, so that we can help. Someone here lives near you.
 
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I have been at it for a whopping month. First off, be warned, it is stupid addictive. Second, you will not save money. People were correct in telling me I will just shoot more. I am four minutes from our club and I go at least three times a week so I can test my latest ammo.

Good advice above by another newbie about getting the books. The Lyman 49th edition is wonderful. It was the first thing I purchased. For powder I am sticking with ones that have been tested to death and has lots of data for everywhere. Admittedly though, I just purchased some BE-86 because of all the good stuff I have read. I can't find it in the reloading books but I can get what I need from the manufacturer's website. Plus, there is a great thread here about the stuff too.

There is a lot of good stuff online as well. You have to weed through the opinions but that's ok. I find this site to be one of the best. Great group here and it is the reason I signed on to this forum.

I went with the Lee Classic Turret. You get everything you need, plus another book loaded with data. Many recommend the single stage but I find the turret almost goof proof because the dies cycle with every pull. I bought a second scale though, digital, just so I could proof the beam scale. Glad I did because the beam scale took a bit for me to trust, only because I did not have a great understanding of how it worked. With that said, the beam scale is awesome and super accurate, much better than the digital. Not sure why all the hate for that particular scale on various forums. I keep it on my table saw, away for the reloading bench so it does not get knocked around. Works like a charm.

Start with light loads. Check your data with the stuff in the books and online. Shoot one, make sure it it made its way to the target. Then go from there. I started with 38special in a 357 mag. Highly recommended because there is so much room for error with that particular caliber. Example, I can load HP38 at 3.2gr with 158gr bullet for a light special load. I think I can easily go to 7.6 with the same powder for a magnum load. Pretty hard to screw up, not that I plan to anytime soon :) Pete
 
Before you buy any equipment or components, get some texts; The ABCs of Reloading, Lyman's 50th Edition Reloading Handbook, and Hornady's Reloading Manual (the last two are manuals with load data but have excellent "How To" sections). When you read these (I'd suggest starting with the ABCs) you'll get information on how to reload and what tools you'll need to suit your reloading needs.

99% of the suggestions about equipment is going to be personal choice and very little (if any) side by side comparison so the recommendations will be about what the poster uses (a lot of "Ford vs. Chevy" type "info"). I have been reloading for 30+ years and have no need for a progressive press and did not use my turret press as a "semi-progressive". I have found only one press that was not usable, that was a SmartReloader, every other press I used was able to produce very good to excellent ammo from my beginnings with Lee Loaders to hand presses, to "C" presses to 3 different single stage, to a turret by Lee and my present press is a Forster Co-Ax. I reloaded for 12 years before I got a tumbler and when I started, shiny, virgin looking, high polished brass was not a necessity. You are going to get recommendations for tools equipment not necessary to assemble good safe ammo, so you'll have to do your own research ("Will this tool make better ammo?,Will this tool make safer ammo? Do I need the extra "speed" reloading my ammo with this tool?). One tool that is great for researching reloading equipment but is being phased out is Vendor catalogs.

Go slow, double check everything, and most important have fun...
 
I have been at it for a whopping month. First off, be warned, it is stupid addictive. Second, you will not save money. People were correct in telling me I will just shoot more. I am four minutes from our club and I go at least three times a week so I can test my latest ammo.

Good advice above by another newbie about getting the books. The Lyman 49th edition is wonderful. It was the first thing I purchased. For powder I am sticking with ones that have been tested to death and has lots of data for everywhere. Admittedly though, I just purchased some BE-86 because of all the good stuff I have read. I can't find it in the reloading books but I can get what I need from the manufacturer's website. Plus, there is a great thread here about the stuff too.

There is a lot of good stuff online as well. You have to weed through the opinions but that's ok. I find this site to be one of the best. Great group here and it is the reason I signed on to this forum.

I went with the Lee Classic Turret. You get everything you need, plus another book loaded with data. Many recommend the single stage but I find the turret almost goof proof because the dies cycle with every pull. I bought a second scale though, digital, just so I could proof the beam scale. Glad I did because the beam scale took a bit for me to trust, only because I did not have a great understanding of how it worked. With that said, the beam scale is awesome and super accurate, much better than the digital. Not sure why all the hate for that particular scale on various forums. I keep it on my table saw, away for the reloading bench so it does not get knocked around. Works like a charm.

Start with light loads. Check your data with the stuff in the books and online. Shoot one, make sure it it made its way to the target. Then go from there. I started with 38special in a 357 mag. Highly recommended because there is so much room for error with that particular caliber. Example, I can load HP38 at 3.2gr with 158gr bullet for a light special load. I think I can easily go to 7.6 with the same powder for a magnum load. Pretty hard to screw up, not that I plan to anytime soon :) Pete
Just be real careful when loading those very small charges of powder. It's easy to double charge a case and hard to see(notice) in the case. Have fun! Always backup any info you see on the internet. I'm sure everyone here agrees that there is some wacky info out there.
 
Every reloading enthusiast starts somewhere. A good start begins with some extensive reading and a few good printed reloading manuals. Not for the load data which we can find anywhere online but for the entire first few sections of the books which explain in detail a wealth of information, including what to do and what not to do and why. There can be an endless array of tools, gauges and other nice to have things. I say nice to have because that is exactly what much of the stuff is, nice to have and not by any means essential to make or roll your own ammunition. I won't suggest a press because you will hear plenty of what others seem to think you need and that is generally what they have. I will say you do not need a press that cost north of $500 to make very accurate and reliable ammunition. You need a good, sturdy reliable press and a single stage is just fine.

Back around Post #2 Walkalong made what I would consider a good suggestion. I have a few Lee presses including progressive flavors and they all work fine. I likely load some of my best and most accurate ammunition using an old RCBS Rockchucker I got over 40 years ago. Reloading is not about speed as there are no prizes in a how fast I can load contest. Reloading is about making reliable, accurate quality ammunition and the way to accomplish this is by developing and using good reloading practices with a focus on safety. Several years ago I bought my brother an RCBS Rockchucker starter kit. I suggest any good reputable starter kit and here is why. It can be argued that starter kits give you stuff you don't need and to some extent that is quite true. However, it saves the starting out reloader the trouble of looking up a pile of pieces and parts to order singularly. Just about all manufacturers make some version of a starter kit and they all will get you going with a few additions. Here on these forums The Reloading Library of Wisdom right at the beginning has a wealth of information, including what the new hand loading enthusiast actually needs versus the nice to haves which can come later. I suggest you peruse the threads for some really good information and good suggestions. Starting slow and simple is a "good thing". Again, I can't stress the importance of developing good work practices enough.

Handgun cases take much smaller charges (for the most part) than their rifle counterparts. This is where it is nice to be able to throw large and small charges with a good degree of accuracy or really repeatability. Making good ammunition requires uniformity, round after round. Obviously there is no way myself or anyone else can fully cover reloading or hand loading in a few paragraphs. I suggest a starter kit of your choice and some reading, a lot of reading. Ask questions, ask plenty of questions.

Ron
 
Just getting into reloading my own ammunition. Looking around there are so many choices, pertaining to products, single, turret, progressive etc. I planned on using my own brass, then it gets into tumblers, cleaning. Then theres powder, primers all gets very over whelming!
Right now I only plan to reload .223/5.56, 9mm,45ACP, maybe 300BLK, and 6.5x55swedish. Really depends on what I shoot the most and would be cost effective. Pertaining to my 1905 M38 Mauser, I really started looking into reloading for that one, and .223/5.56.

So just looking for guidance into getting started.

Walkalong and reloadron already gave you better advise than I could. Listen to folks here, ask lots of questions and read as much as you can, then read some more. If you don't understand ask more questions.

The folks on this forum are the best. Stop back often.

Jeff
 
One thing I will add is that not everyone has ample amounts of time to pass reloading so time does become important to some. I used to sit in the basement for hours making perfect boxes of ammo as a passtime, but now I have a family and obligations and I'm lucky to get a couple hours a week to myself so my priorities have shifted to how can I make the same quality of ammo quicker so I actually have time to shoot it!
 
Like many here (Not all), I started with a single stage press (An RCBS Partner press kit), then I got a Lee turret in a trade and used it for awhile. After a time I decided a progressive was right for me.

The learning curve is steeper on a progressive, but starting on one can be done with good study and attention to detail. Being mechanically inclined helps as well.

I always suggest starting on a single stage. It will be easier, as in you're less likely to have problems setting up dies and having issues with the finished product. Success in the beginning builds confidence and gives pride in that success.

I still don't own a bullet puller.

I wiped cases clean for awhile before trading into a tumbler (Along with the Turret press). I primed on the Partner press before eventually buying a hand primer. I agonized over every detail in the beginning. (No internet for fast answers either, we had to read books (OMG :D), or the reloading section of G&A, or subscribe to Handloader magazine). Starting slow is not a bad thing.

A good manual covers everything you need to know. A kit will come with one. Read it twice before doing anything. After a thorough reading, and a little piddling with the press and dies, you'll have a much better idea of what questions you need answered, and we can certainly help with those. There are a lot of very knowledgeable reloaders here with decades of experience. Have a problem? Someone here has been through it, maybe even with the same exact components and equipment.
 
SSGMANN wrote:
Right now I only plan to reload .223/5.56, 9mm,45ACP, maybe 300BLK, and 6.5x55swedish.

My advice would be choose one cartridge to load and develop proficiency with it before branching out to the remainder; it's kind of like making sure you can walk before attempting to run.

Any time you ask an opinion question on one of these boards, you will get some responses from people who will tell you to get what they would buy but which may not be what you need.

Before you make the decision what equipment to buy take a while and think how much you shoot of each caliber. A single stage press is inexpesive, but slow. A turret press speeds things up some. A progressive allows you to perform each step of the process with a pull of the lever but is more expensive. If you're only going to load something like 50 or 100 rounds at a time, a single stage will be fine. If you're loading 500 rounds a week, then an investment in a progressive press might be prudent.

And Walkalong gave you good advice to buy whatever it is you're going to get in a kit since it will save you money over buying a piece at a time. Lee has a significant price advantage over most of the other equipment makers and makes generally good hardware. I generally pay the extra to get RCBS because their support after the sale is, in my experience, second to none. You can buy with confidence because other than the rare mis-step, none of the reloading equipment makers produce anything other than servicable hardware.

And welcome to the hobby.
 
Walkalong wrote:
Read it twice before doing anything.

I want to add my voice to Walkalong. PLEASE. PLEASE. PLEASE read the part of the manual about how to reload twice before doing anything. It will save you from bad habits you'll just have to "unlearn" later and you'll be more confident when you do get started.
 
A whole lot of good advice so far. One thing I'll add - Pay Attention To Details.

If you're not already a detail oriented person, then become one when reloading. Starting on a single stage press makes that easier as only one thing is happening at a time. Write up a loading procedures check list detailing each step and follow it.

If you're already a detail person and are comfortable with complex simultaneous processes, then maybe start with a progressive. Check lists are useful here to, so that you remember to do it the same way each time.
 
Step One; READ. You wil begin to understand which powder and which primer belongs with which cartridge.
Step Two; READ. compare your budget to your goals and your available time.
Step Three; Decide which caliber to begin with. Of yours listed, .45ACP is a good place to start.
Step Three; READ. research the different presses and tools that would meet your needs.

IMO keep it simple and start with the basics, Basic equipment required to begin reloading;
At least 1 reloading manual, preferably 2. And READ them.
A press. A Classic Turret would work well for all your listed cartridges.
Dies.
Scale
Powder measure
Caliper
Loading tray.
Bullet puller
If you begin with a rifle caliber you will also need shell trimming, chamfering and deburring tools.


Everything else like a tumbler is optional.
 
when I was in your shoes I wanted to load 9mm, 223, 44mag, 45-70, and 38spl. I've been at this a few years now with the great help from the guys on here and as said above start with one caliber for now and once your very comfortable with it then switch. I started with 223 and got bored with it so got all the stuff for 44mag then all the stuff for 9mm. it got very overwhelming trying to juggle all these at once. I'm glad I didn't buy 45-70 and 38 supplies yet cause I haven't loaded 9mm in about a year. 223 is what I shoot most so it gets done first, 44mag is my hunting stuff and it was pretty dumb to buy a bunch of stuff for it to shoot 10rds a year to sight in and deer hunt.

I started with a single stage press and junk equipment and hated it and wish I spent my money a little wiser starting out. being in your situation not too long ago this is what I would have done different.

1) Buy the dies your going to use more, brass, powder, primers and once you are confident in your reloading abilities and have mastered say 223 then purchase dies for the next caliber and all the components and focus primarily on them until comfortable and move onto the next. I tried doing them all at once and it was a little nerve racking.

2) Manuals-buy several of them and if your like me and use Hornady bullets exclusively buy their manual cause I got Lyman manuals and they are more geared to lead and other bullets. Read them about 5 times too. make sure your writing everything down also to keep track of what load works and what doesn't. this will help a lot in the long run.

3) Tools-Don't buy the cheapo Lee de-bur and chamfer stuff its junk and sucks to use. I use this and its cheap to start and works well. It comes with every case prep tool you will ever need and saves the hands from hurting. Also, buy a case checker for the caliber you choose to make sure your sizing them right and its also faster to see if they need trimmed then checking with caliper. buy a decent set of digital calipers too. You can also purchase a lee cutting tool for the case prep centers and thread it onto this tool I linked and it works very well to trim rifle cases. http://www.cabelas.com/product/Lyman-Case-Care-Kit/1317242.uts?searchPath=/browse.cmd?categoryId=734095080&CQ_search=lyman+case+prep.

4) Press/accessories/scale-I started with a hand me down lee single stage and I hated it so I saved up and got a classic turret, safety prime, lee perfect powder measure for rifle and buy a good scale right off the rip to save you headaches. I use a digital Lyman accu touch and its dead on with check weight every time I use it and its very simple to use and priced right. I like the safety prime because its one less hand held step and I can primer while sizing.

5) Dies-Buy what you can afford. I use rcbs for rifle and lee for everything else and have no issues at all with either companies.

6) Powder/primer/cases-Don't do what I did and want to try every powder available because now I have a couple pounds of powder my rifle doesn't like. If you find one I would run with it to save some sanity and $. In 223rem I prefer benchmark. Its a little expensive but I'm all about maximum accuracy so its worth it to me. If your running an AR, H335 is a good priced right powder. I like CCI primers for rifle and use Sellior and Bellot primers for pistol because they are cheap. Brassbombers.com has very good prices on fully processed 223.5.56 brass. Just size and trim and throw in a case checker and your good to go. if you have some you saved up your GTG just make sure the 5.56 cases don't have crimped primers as its a pain to deal with and you wont be able to prime unless swaging or cutting the crimp out. I like Brassbombers for this as its done for me. Pistol brass I pickup at ranges just make sure its not steel or aluminum or has a step inside them.

7) Pistol stuff-I use a lee auto drum powder measure on my classic turret and a lee factory crimp die and run the turret and crank out 9mm. For this I use hp-38, plated bullets and S&B primers. This is where the safety prime really shines to speed it up and one less step away from the press. Pickup old ammo boxes from the range to store rounds. you can use your barrel as a case gauge to save a little $.

8) Misc-I am OCD like no tomorrow when it comes to this stuff and cant stand the thought of running a dirty case into my dies, rifle, etc so a harbor freight tumbler would work but not needed. I use it more to get case lube off the cases. Oh and get some imperial sizing wax for the rifle rounds. and also some sort of bullet puller. I like the rcbs collet puller. If you ever have a second thought pull that bullet and start over! A loading block also helps a lot too.

If you ever have doubts stop and get on here and ask 1000 questions like I did before you go back at it. this hobby can get a little frustrating at times so keep with it. Also I know I recommended a lot of stuff above but that doesn't mean you should run out and buy that stuff. A single stage will work well, Lee and any other kits will work well. I feel the turret helps with not having to change dies and speeds up pistol when that time comes. I use it as a single stage more than anything and just turn the head by hand when ready. I was just stating what works for me and what was recommended to me. I purchased a lot of cheaper junk and hated it all so I started looking at better stuff to replace the junk.
 
Welcome to THR, Lots of great people here.
Lee Classic turret press,
Lee auto drum powder measure
Lee Safety prime to put on the press
Lee carbide 4 die set for 9mm and 45acp
A quality cast iron magnetic dampened beam scale (look on ebay for older ones from RCBS, Redding, Pacific, ect...)
pair of cheap digital calipers
A cheap hammer type bullet puller to fix your mistakes
Pretty much agree here except on the used scale. Get the RCBS bullet puller, life time warranty from them on it.


I think the Lee Turret press is a good press to start with and you won't out grow it.
I have a Lee Turret and a Hornady Lock and Load Progressive. I could have learned on the progressive but the Turret was much easier to set up and get running.
Faster than a single stage and caliber changes about half the cost of the ones on my progressive. I load 9mm and .45 on the progressive and most everything else on the Turret.
I would suggest a bullet puller and some check weights to add to your kit. I have found a need for them puller when I have the occasional did I senior moment.
I have a friend that has the Lee beam scale and it works but I don't care for it, other have the said the same. I use a Frankford DS750 and a RCBS 5-0-5. (along with a GEM 20 sometimes), mostly the DS750.

Rifle is not much harder than pistol but I would start with 9mm or .45.
Rifle brass needs to be trimmed so you will need a trimmer when you get ready to do rifle.
Rocky Mountain Reloading offers THR members a 5% discount with the code (posted in BDS's PIF thread)
I like their 9mm and .45 plated bullets.

Remember there is no such thing as a stupid question so don't be afraid to ask.

PS:
You probably won't save money but you will get to shoot more for the same $$.

PS #2. Presses are like cars some people think only one company makes good ones and the others are junk.
There are lots of Lee bashers out there, don't believe everything they say.
 
Before you buy anything, take a read on the sticky thread "Library of Wisdom" at the top of this reloading forum. There is a lot if good information there that can prevent you from making a mistake that will cost you money.

Next, but at least one good manual and read the front if the book. There is a ton of very useful and informative information there too. I suggest the Lyman 50th Edition Handbook. The soft cover book is on sale right now at Midway USA, almost $10 off.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1064661989/lyman-reloading-handbook-50th-edition-reloading-manual

I wish you well...
 
Why do you say he "NEEDS" a progressive?

It seems you posted while I was typing my reply.

I'm not busting on you, but not everyone can afford a progressive, or might want to get one to start. When I was looking I thought I'd get a progressive, but as I did research I decided it was a BAD IDEA to start on a progressive. In fact, I did what rvenneman suggested, and got the Lee Hand press to start.

I used it a few times and decided I wanted something faster, and hence got the Lee Classic Turret. I still use the hand press to deprime, and to resize brass. I also love that I can use it anywhere and have the flexibility to take it with me wherever I want to go.

Now I agree the progressive is much faster, but until someone is doing several hundred rounds a week or more why not get some less expensive gear, then add as he gets comfortable? Learn the basics, then decide what works, what doesn't and what can make things better to meet his needs?
 
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