How to reload w/ 5.56 brass

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nchiker1

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I've been reloading .40 cal for a while now, and am wanting to get into reloading .223/5.56. I started looking for brass to start out with, and found some good deals on 5.56. Is there a difference between reloading the two? I know the outside dimensions are the same, though I have heard that the case wall is thicker in the 5.56, resulting in some small chamber dimensions.

Can someone knowledgeable (and who speaks "newbie") help me out on this? Is there a formula I need to use to convert the suggested powder amounts in my Lyman's reloading manual from .223 to 5.56?

Thanks in advance!
 
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5.56 brass is or can be Military in origin. If it is, it normally will have the primers crimped in. This makes good sense. Firing very rapidly or full auto in an environment filled with not so nice people that want you dead, would anyone want the possibility of a 'popped' prime dropping down into your lower and locking it up? Not me.

For us, the reloaders.

Some DIE depriming pins have difficult pushing crimped primers out. Lee makes a universal depriming unit that eats'em up. Next problem is that crimp ring. Good news, only have to remove it once. There are many ways to get rid of it. Pressing/swaging it away, cutting with many boughten tools or just cutting it away with a counter-sink drill bit of the bigger size.

Next up is what was this brass fired in? If a AR/M4, no sweat. If some loose chambered SAW, it will take a bit more ump to size. Lube the sides/body well with a good sizing lubricant. As with the crimped primers, after that first sizing, your on a role.

But, the brass is thicker or some other thing. Nope, US GI 5.56 is great stuff. Now, some/older 7.62 NATO brass was thicker or heavier in the web area. Don't worry about what you are not loading.

How to load. Always start at the 'Starting' load and slowly work up. If you have never skied, do you start on the 'Deadman's Drop off' hill? Or bunny slope? Don't get in a hurry. Accuracy is only second to safety, velocity/energy is farther down the list of needs. you will get there, quickly.

If you load for your weapon, there is no difference between a .223 Rem and a 5.56 NATO. Upper end velocities/pressures will not be the same, but who cares.
 
While this does not go directly to the OP, keep in mind that if you luck onto some new military ammunition, the chambers in some 223 "sporting" arms are different that the chambers in the military rifles. This can (in some firearms) cause increased pressures to the point of damage to the firearm (or worse). It is therefore a good idea to check with the manufacturer of any .223 "sporter" to see if using military ammunition in your rifle is appropate. .223 ammunition is fine (safe) to fire in the military rifles.
 
I have heard that the case wall is thicker in the 5.56, resulting in some small chamber dimensions.
Click to expand...

Military cases are sometimes lighter, and sometimes heavier, than commercial cases. Use .223 data, start low, and work up. I log the case weights I am using for future reference when loading different cases. My plinking load is safe with any normal weight case. The occasional very heavy case will have the powder up a lot higher in the neck than the others and I just pull them out and scrap them. It is only an occasional case.

Welcome to THR
 
Loading rifle is different from handgun. You need to use case lubricant to resize and trim the cases if too long. Military spec brass with primer crimps need to be processed to remove the crimp. There other differences that others will likely point out.
 
5.56 brass is or can be Military in origin. If it is, it normally will have the primers crimped in. This makes good sense. Firing very rapidly or full auto in an environment filled with not so nice people that want you dead, would anyone want the possibility of a 'popped' prime dropping down into your lower and locking it up? Not me.

For us, the reloaders.

Some DIE depriming pins have difficult pushing crimped primers out. Lee makes a universal depriming unit that eats'em up. Next problem is that crimp ring. Good news, only have to remove it once. There are many ways to get rid of it. Pressing/swaging it away, cutting with many boughten tools or just cutting it away with a counter-sink drill bit of the bigger size.

Next up is what was this brass fired in? If a AR/M4, no sweat. If some loose chambered SAW, it will take a bit more ump to size. Lube the sides/body well with a good sizing lubricant. As with the crimped primers, after that first sizing, your on a role.

But, the brass is thicker or some other thing. Nope, US GI 5.56 is great stuff. Now, some/older 7.62 NATO brass was thicker or heavier in the web area. Don't worry about what you are not loading.

How to load. Always start at the 'Starting' load and slowly work up. If you have never skied, do you start on the 'Deadman's Drop off' hill? Or bunny slope? Don't get in a hurry. Accuracy is only second to safety, velocity/energy is farther down the list of needs. you will get there, quickly.

If you load for your weapon, there is no difference between a .223 Rem and a 5.56 NATO. Upper end velocities/pressures will not be the same, but who cares.
Click to expand...

I've posted this on a couple other forums, and your response is the most helpful one I've received. You really cleared some things up for me. Thanks!
 
Do yourself a favor and try to buy brass that is de crimped if it is Military or just get once fired commercial.

As you are new to rifle reloading, have to remove crimps is just an annoying thing and work that you can do without.

You also have to full size the brass, check for length and TRIM if it is over the max length. so you need some type of trimmer (also not one of my favorite things), but needs to be done. So it depends on how much you plan on shooting what kind of trimmer to get. Just a few hundred in a bolt rifle you can get by with a hand trimmer. Shooting lots from a AR 15 then a power trimmer.

When you size the brass you MUST lube the brass first or you get a stuck case and that is no fun.

Best to read the front section of some manuals and get a feel for what is involved. Will help down the road.

For example:

http://www.tjconevera.com/onfi308prbrf.html
 
You know, I used a Lyman Small Primer pocket crimp remover for over 600 cases of LC brass.
It's doable, but your fingers will take a beating and you cant do very much every day.
But just today I bought a RCBS primer pocket swager for a single stage press and it's a godsend. Works for 9mm, 223, and large primer pockets as well.
 
If you are loading for an auto loading rifle, it would probably be a good idea to buy a small base resizing die for reliable feeding. In all honesty, I've never had a problem using a standard FL die, but I have only loaded for a few different AR's too.

Also, be careful not to over lube your brass. Just be sure you have an even and very thin film of lube on the body, neck, and I also like a very light touch on the inside of the necks, it makes things go a bit smoother. But don't get any on the shoulders, or you'll end up with lube dents, same if you use too much any where else, lube dents.

GS
 
The only noticeable difference I've ever picked up on is the primers may be crimped which is no bug deal. Use a chamfer tool to clean it up lightly so your primer will seat smooth and they'll need trimmed. The necks in most 556 brass are long. Other than that start load work up. Just don't try to use the same charge for lc brass as you would Winchester or whatever. Lc brass is thicker
 
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