Building a 6.8 SPC II-looking for some advice

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boom boom

boom boom

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Got bored and decided to build a new upper. Would like advice what magazines that you felt were reliable with your 6.8 uppers in a standard AR-15. As I am going with a 16 inch SOCOM type carbine length barrel and bolt (both already bought so not seeking info on that), I also seek opinions on buffer, whether to use the full M-16 bolt carrier, and whether to use an adjustable gas block. Primarily interested in the heavier bullets (110 gr. or 115 gr.) rather than the very fast and light bullets.

I will be reloading my once fired brass and using a free float tube sufficient to cover the case block.
 
Boom, I am not a builder nor do I have enough knowledge about components to give advice. I can say from ownership/ experience that my Wilson Combat Recon (6.8) is just a surperb "tack driver" at 100 yards with 90 to 120 grain factory ammo - it likes everything. The WC components seem to function very well - may be a good component start for you to investigate. Ps, the 6.8 is a deer dropper.
 
Steve S. said:
Boom, I am not a builder nor do I have enough knowledge about components to give advice. I can say from ownership/ experience that my Wilson Combat Recon (6.8) is just a surperb "tack driver" at 100 yards with 90 to 120 grain factory ammo - it likes everything. The WC components seem to function very well - may be a good component start for you to investigate. Ps, the 6.8 is a deer dropper.
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Thanks, this is the sort of info that I am looking for. What brand of magazine do you have?
 
Boom, the rifle came with a 15 round mag with the PRI 6.8 logo. I purchased a 10 round mag to comply with state deer hunting regs (no more than 11 rounds, 10 + 1 in the chamber - it also has the PRI logo - both mags are well constructed and function flawlessly.
 
For hunting, PRI is the safe bet. The PRI mags also allow for a longer OAL ( I believe approaching 2.3"), which is nice for getting the most out of the cartridge, especially with the heavier, pointier bullets. Once you have a few PRI mags for serious use, I'd give the newer ASC mags a try as they generally have good reviews, and the ones I had worked fine.
 
The BEST 6.8SPC mags are the PRI mags. They are pricey tho but I also have a few of the ASC 6.8 mags and they work fine. I use the ASC at the range and the PRI in the woods. Neither magazine has ever had a problem.
 
Mags were a concern about the 6.8 but you guys have helped a bunch.
 
When you start reloading the 6.8, I suggest Alliant 2200 powder & Reloader 10X to start with. Both provide accuracy & performance, especially with the heavier bullets.
 
pert near said:
When you start reloading the 6.8, I suggest Alliant 2200 powder & Reloader 10X to start with. Both provide accuracy & performance, especially with the heavier bullets.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Plan to reload at some point after accumulating some once fired brass from firing commercial ammo. Would you recommend the reloading dies that you use for this cartridge?
 
NIGHTLORD40K said:
Barrett decided they didn't like any of the commercial 6.8 mags so they made their own and they are fantastic- steel body and follower and the fit and finish is great! I just wish they made this same mag in .556......:(
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Do you get them direct from Barrett? I saw references to them on 6.8forum but my usual supply sources did not have them in stock.
 
I currently only have 2 6.8 SPC's, one is an 18", the other a 10.5" pistol, waiting on its Form 1 to push through. The 120 SST and the 110 Vmax keep me happy for deer, hogs, and coyotes. The TTSX is a great bullet, but it's a bit pricey, and I built my AR's to be able to shoot my AR's.

I prefer adjustable gas blocks on all of my AR's unless competition rules prohibit their use. It's worth the extra $40-80 to me to be able to tune my action to match my ammunition. JP, Odin, SLR, take your pick. I like clamp on style, and prefer detent when possible, but I'm not against straight set screw type (old school JP).

I have PRI and ASC (and AR stoner rebrand ASC's) mags, all of them run fine.

I run semiauto or M16 (full tail) BCG's, then H2 buffers in most of my AR's, at least those which aren't meant for speed competition and lighter weight. It does a nice job on the 6.8's to slow down the recoil impulse and help keep my target in the scope - a brake out front helps for that too. They run fine with carbine buffers and lightweight carriers, it just beats up brass more, and requires a little less gas on the block.

I use Hornady brass. It's cheap and readily available, and has lasted well for me. AR brass never lasts as long as bolt gun brass, and any time I get over 10-12 loadings on brass, I'm content to chalk it up as a win, and not ask for much more. I do anneal, nice having an auto annealer for such big batches.
 
Varminterror said:
I currently only have 2 6.8 SPC's, one is an 18", the other a 10.5" pistol, waiting on its Form 1 to push through. The 120 SST and the 110 Vmax keep me happy for deer, hogs, and coyotes. The TTSX is a great bullet, but it's a bit pricey, and I built my AR's to be able to shoot my AR's.

I prefer adjustable gas blocks on all of my AR's unless competition rules prohibit their use. It's worth the extra $40-80 to me to be able to tune my action to match my ammunition. JP, Odin, SLR, take your pick. I like clamp on style, and prefer detent when possible, but I'm not against straight set screw type (old school JP).

I have PRI and ASC (and AR stoner rebrand ASC's) mags, all of them run fine.

I run semiauto or M16 (full tail) BCG's, then H2 buffers in most of my AR's, at least those which aren't meant for speed competition and lighter weight. It does a nice job on the 6.8's to slow down the recoil impulse and help keep my target in the scope - a brake out front helps for that too. They run fine with carbine buffers and lightweight carriers, it just beats up brass more, and requires a little less gas on the block.

I use Hornady brass. It's cheap and readily available, and has lasted well for me. AR brass never lasts as long as bolt gun brass, and any time I get over 10-12 loadings on brass, I'm content to chalk it up as a win, and not ask for much more. I do anneal, nice having an auto annealer for such big batches.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I appreciate the information about the buffers, bolt carrier, mags, and reloading info. Not really looking at competing, but do plan to reload the brass--rather pay a bit more for the adjustable gas block and get less beatup brass..
 
I did mean to add - I assume you're not planning to compete, as there's nothing but penalty to be had by using a 6.8spc, so an AGB shouldn't be a compliance issue for you. Since you've confirmed you're not competing, rock on with an AGB.
 
Varminterror said:
I did mean to add - I assume you're not planning to compete, as there's nothing but penalty to be had by using a 6.8spc, so an AGB shouldn't be a compliance issue for you. Since you've confirmed you're not competing, rock on with an AGB.
Click to expand...

Was planning on going with JP adjustable block as they have the rep for good service and good parts--don't mind paying a bit more for something that works consistently. Medical problems involving the legs make it a problem to run and gun anyway.
 
I'll agree that an adjustable gas block is THE best way to go on any AR. Here is what I had to learn when shopping for & using gas blocks. There are 2 types: Adjustable Gas Blocks (AGB) & Tunable Gas Blocks (TGB). The AGB is designed for quick change & repeatability. A good example is someone who might have a removable suppressor or shoots a lot of different types of ammo. In this case access without removing the hand-guard is important & the ability to easily change between predetermined setting is important. The TGB is adjustable & once you get the rifled tuned, it is locked down semi-permanently, usually with a set screw. You might have to remove the hand-guard to adjust & lock the TGB. You will quickly find out that TGB's are USUALLY cheaper due to less complexity.
 
pert near said:
I'll agree that an adjustable gas block is THE best way to go on any AR. Here is what I had to learn when shopping for & using gas blocks. There are 2 types: Adjustable Gas Blocks (AGB) & Tunable Gas Blocks (TGB). The AGB is designed for quick change & repeatability. A good example is someone who might have a removable suppressor or shoots a lot of different types of ammo. In this case access without removing the hand-guard is important & the ability to easily change between predetermined setting is important. The TGB is adjustable & once you get the rifled tuned, it is locked down semi-permanently, usually with a set screw. You might have to remove the hand-guard to adjust & lock the TGB. You will quickly find out that TGB's are USUALLY cheaper due to less complexity.
Click to expand...

Might eventually get a suppressor but will use different ammo so thanks for letting me know about the technical difference between the two. I have been reading a lot of reviews of gas blocks at the various vendors and it is starting to make my head spin. You helped clear up some of the differences. Thanks. I haven't used Alliant powders that much but will probably start as they are readily available around here while accurate and ramshot seems not to be for some reason. Kinda bums me out because I like Zip in some applications, Accurate #5 and Silhouette in others with Accurate 5744 for reduced loads in rifles.
 
pert near said:
When you start reloading the 6.8, I suggest Alliant 2200 powder & Reloader 10X to start with.
Click to expand...

Did you mean to type Accurate Arms 2200? I haven't heard of Alliant 2200 but AA2200 is a great powder for the 6.8. I was using AA2200 to push 110gr Accubonds to 2,660 fps out of an 18" AR. I only shot two deer with that combo, but was happy with the performance.
 
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