Gil, I will offer my comments until some of the experts come in:
If this revolver is yours and you want to know exactly how the mechanism works, you can get a copy of "Colt single action revolvers manual" by Jerry Kuhnhausen - you can either find it on Brownells.fr (70.49 Euro), or order it from Brownells.com for $37.99 (they do ship international orders):
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...lvers-shop-manual-volumes-i-ii-prod25724.aspx
Kuhnhausen's series of shop manuals are wonderful books if you are willing to work on your firearms, but they do require some gunsmithing skills, knowledge and proper tools - in general, they are a set of specific training manuals for gunsmiths.
1. You have cylinder endshake (cylinder's front to back movement) that looks a little bit excessive - address that issue first as excessive endshake can have an effect on hand timing. If I remember correctly, Colt specified for no more than 0.08 mm (0.003") and no less than 0.03 mm (0.001") endplay. You can either fit a new oversized cylinder bushing, or go the quick & dirty way - put a hardened shim with the required thickness in front of the bushing (you can cut a shim from a feeler gauge).
2. Except for the broken half cock notch the hammer looks fine. I believe that you can still use that hammer without problems, even with the broken half cock notch - looks like it has enough edge left to operate somewhat OK. Or, you can have it welded and reshaped to the correct dimensions.
3. Bolt looks fine - at least from the picture no alteration of the left leg is visible. What I think is happening is that the left leg, the one that rides on the hammer cam (left and right directions are with the barrel facing away from you), has bend inwards, away from the cam, thus allowing for late pick up and an early drop. You can correct that with carefully bending that leg to the left, away from the bolt - that would allow for proper contact with the hammer. The bolt leg should be resting firmly, with pressure, on the hammer. No slop allowed. Bolt should start retracting at the same instance as the hammer starts to move. Drop timing (releasing of the bolt to lock the cylinder) should be addressed after the hand and the trigger are fitted.
4. The trigger's sear (the tip that contacts the hammer) seems to be shortened - either an unfortunate attempt for a trigger job, or the tip was broken and someone grind it down and reshape it in an attempt to salvage the part. You can have that trigger welded and refit (a skilled gunsmith job), or fit a new part. I believe that Uberti parts will fit the original Colts without problems, but the do require proper adjustment. Ideally, the trigger should engage the full cock notch just before the back of hammer touches the frame.
5. The hand seems to be worn - it picks up the cylinder late. Only after you corrected the above mentioned issues you can mess with the hand. It can be stretched to some degree with a hammer and a flat punch, or a new one (Uberti) fitted. When you are done with the hand, check bolt drop timing and correct it if needed - it should drop one full width in front of the bolt slot in the cylinder.
6. For all of the above first read carefully the Kuhnhausen Shop Manual - those issues you have with the revolver and the proper way of correcting them are explained there in details.
7. Have fun with that gun!
8. Merry Christmas to you also!