Shoobe, that’s quite a comprehensive post...
If I had to make an SKS into my one-and-only defensive gun I'd:
1. Make sure I had a good one. Fire it a good bit, make sure it's reliable, accurate, etc.
In long gun country, we always have rifles in the back, and always carry when we set foot down. These are bolt action, good for four-legged things, or two-legged things if they’re not too many or overly armed.
For a good SKS, I’m lucky enough to be able to pick one out of a couple of dozens, and to have a range at hand…
1. Remove the bayonet, cleaning rod.
2. If practical for you, and not a collector, etc. buzz off the poky, heavy bayonet lug/mount thing. Carefully so as to not damage the FSB.
Done... First thing I chopped off after getting the trigger at what it’s supposed to be.
1. Replace the stock. Anything that is fiber reinforced plastic, sturdy, and comfortable.
* Wood is heavy, and the heavier it is, the less likely to be on your body. Lighten the gun
* Fitting your body better is good. I like the original size and configuration but there's much to be said for adjustable LOP
* If allowed, folding will make the gun much shorter, so easier to stow and secure in vehicles, easier to have on you.
* But most of all, wood changes with environmental conditions. Should make it more accurate /all the time/.
Agreed, stock fit is essential if you want to be quick with a rifle. The wood on the SKS is, to put it mildly, crude...
I may be able to get a FAB Defense stock, they seem to be good quality.
Gun as light as possible... My carry long gun is a 7.5 lbs 9.3x62, my “heavy” is a 8.5 lbs .458 Lott. A 6.5 lbs rifle would be a dream... Not sure you can get that, maybe with a trimmed 6.5...
1. Get a good carry strap. Personally, I sew adapters and love the BFG VCAS, but anything good is good.
* Same thing as #4: makes it more likely you have it on you all the time.
I always carry my gun in hand, never use a sling. Most hunters here do not use a sling: it gets in the way if something jumps you from a bush ten yards away...
The only place I’d see a use for a sling would be in a urban environment, where you may need to use your hands for a light or whatever. But then I’d probably have a light on a piece of rail anyway.
That’s also one of the reason why I do insist on a good balance in a gun. Can’t carry at arm’s length for hours if it balances like a sledge hammer...
1. Vehicle mounts, or cases. Never worry of theft, questions, or wonder where it is when you have had a collision. Bad guys may start an incident with a collision.
* Can you get to it from the driver's seat, if stuff happens fast, or you are trapped, post-collision?
Bush vehicles, open gun rack behind the cab. In town, handgun, if there is a long in the car, in a secured case.
That one I want… Exactly what I was looking for! Thanks for the heads up.
1. An RDS on that mount. A dead-nuts reliable one.
Yes. Nothing beats a RMR for quick work, not even a ghost ring. More than adequate for 150 yards shots, even more (2-3 MOA dot). And with seasoned eyes, it solves all blurry problems.
1. Figure out a reload mechanism. Get stripper clips, practice topping off.
* If reliable, and several have testified to specific options above, get a 20 round (not 30!) mag replacement for more onboard firepower.
I scrounged around and got myself 40 BXM clips... That will do the job. For having tested M models with the AK mag, I find them clumsy to reload, and prefer the clips. Easier and lighter to carry, too.
1. Figure out how to carry those reloads. And think about day to day, not range day
* What can you keep on the body all the time? Maybe nothing, but think on it.
* What can you grab with the rifle, to quickly wear or throw over a shoulder. Make sure you can shoot with it on, also
In the bush, two clips in the pockets, more in a backpack with one of the guys. Hunting rounds on the belt. In town, I have a fanny pack in grabbing distance, with the essentials: spare mags, spare clips, ear protection, gloves, some cord, and a blade.
1. Make a dope chart. 7.62x39 is pretty loopy, so past about 300 yards you'll start missing just from drop.
1. Make a simple chart of holdovers from 1-600 yards and stick it to the stock.
2. Try to find something on the gun (front sight?) to use as a size reference to help estimate ranges.
Not really planning on longish shots... 150-200 are far in our places. If there is time for a 400 yards shot, there is time to get a scoped .300... When stalking things, whether four or two-hooved, the saying goes “If yer close enuff, git closer”. But still, I’ll work that SKS and check where things go.
You covered all the bases... Thanks again for that pointer to the mount, I’d been looking for something like that, but all the ones I saw didn’t make the cut.
