Uberti Cattleman ii Revolver Help

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John White

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Hey all,

I just bought an Uberti cattleman ii revolver in .357 a couple of weeks ago, and I am having a slight issue with it. When fully loaded (with 5 cartridges), the pistol sometimes hangs up when I try to bring it to full cock. It is like something is either stopping the cylinder from rotating, or the hammer is getting stuck. This only happens about 5% of the time, but it has me worried when it happens because I have to apply a lot more force to get the gun to full cock. I am worried that I will damage my pistol because of this issue.

I have thoroughly cleaned my pistol twice now, once after each time I have shot it, but after I put about 20 rounds through it the issue starts popping up again.

I would really appreciate any suggestions on how to fix this issue or if you all think I should take it to a gun smith.

I am new to this forum and am not sure if this is the correct place to post this, so if not I would also appreciate direction on where to go to talk about help!

Thanks!
 
There are other posts around here with the same issue on various revolvers. First things to ask are, does it happen when the gun is empty? Have you tried more than one brand of factory ammo, or are you using reloads? Is the hand damaged? Perhaps there is excessive cylinder end play?
 
There are other posts around here with the same issue on various revolvers. First things to ask are, does it happen when the gun is empty? Have you tried more than one brand of factory ammo, or are you using reloads? Is the hand damaged? Perhaps there is excessive cylinder end play?

Thanks a ton for your reply. The gun spins freely when unloaded and even when .38 special is loaded. I have primarily noticed the issue with out of the box .357 ammo that I am using.

I will try out some other ammo types this weekend and see if that fixes the problem! If not Ill be back on to investigate the other options.

For curiosity sake, could you explain more into "Hand damage" and "Excessive cylinder play"?

Thanks again for all of your help.
 
The hand is the little arm that come out of the breech face and engages the ratchet on the back of the cylinder to turn it. Cylinder end play is movement of the cylinder back and forth between the breech face and the barrel.
Does the cylinder begin turning at all when this happens or is it stuck? If stuck the cylinder stop may not be dropping out of the cylinder notch. Common single action Colt and Colt clone issue.
 
The hand is the little arm that come out of the breech face and engages the ratchet on the back of the cylinder to turn it. Cylinder end play is movement of the cylinder back and forth between the breech face and the barrel.
Does the cylinder begin turning at all when this happens or is it stuck? If stuck the cylinder stop may not be dropping out of the cylinder notch. Common single action Colt and Colt clone issue.

Okay that is what I was thinking, thank you for the clarification.

The cylinder doesn't turn at all when it gets stuck, so I am thinking it might be the cylinder stop. I will for sure check into this when I go to the range this weekend. If this is the issue how would I go about absolving it?
 
John, more than likely it's a head spacing transition problem. There is a slight lip (on the recoil shield) that the case head passes over as it moves into battery. This lip is usually a little too abrupt and needs to be relieved to allow a smooth transition. Just a little filing is all that is needed.

Mike
 
Thanks a ton for your reply. The gun spins freely when unloaded and even when .38 special is loaded. I have primarily noticed the issue with out of the box .357 ammo that I am using.

The .357 cartridge is, of course, longer than .38 Special. If the ammo is a little out of spec, or the chambers in your cylinder are too short, the cartridges may not be going all the way into the cylinder, causing the case head to bind on the recoil shield. I’d try another factory .357 load to compare.
 
The .357 cartridge is, of course, longer than .38 Special. If the ammo is a little out of spec, or the chambers in your cylinder are too short, the cartridges may not be going all the way into the cylinder, causing the case head to bind on the recoil shield. I’d try another factory .357 load to compare.

I have only been using American Eagle Federal so far, do you have any recommendations for another type that might work better?

Thanks.
 
I have only been using American Eagle Federal so far, do you have any recommendations for another type that might work better?
Just drop them into the cylinder and see if they seat all the way flush. If they drop easily to flush then there's no problem with the round. The chamber is likely OK, too.
To fix a broken/damaged cylinder stop requires complete disassembly of the gun and fitting of a new part or parts. If you want to attempt it yourself get Kuhnhausen's Colt Single action manual and study it well before attempting the repair - http://www.gunbooks.com/colt_sa.html .
 
John, more than likely it's a head spacing transition problem. There is a slight lip (on the recoil shield) that the case head passes over as it moves into battery. This lip is usually a little too abrupt and needs to be relieved to allow a smooth transition. Just a little filing is all that is needed.

Mike

This is most likely your answer.
 
18EF392A-B023-4F14-9AD1-B5BD106879F2.jpeg Glad you got it sorted, enjoy your revolver. Here’s my Taylor’s & Co. Drifter in 357. Had to do the same thing to it. Have fun!
 
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