Uberti Cattleman - Can't cock hammer

[homers]

Problem with my Uberti Cattleman in 45 colt. After 1 - 3 shots, I can't cock the hammer anymore - even to the half cock position. I then have to remove the pin, remove the cylinder, empty and reassemble. Any ideas what is wrong?

 

[Kp321]

Dragging on one end of the cylinder. Either too little gap between the cylinder and barrel or primers are backing out and dragging at the rear.

 

[holsterguy]

Problem with my Uberti Cattleman in 45 colt. After 1 - 3 shots, I can't cock the hammer anymore - even to the half cock position. I then have to remove the pin, remove the cylinder, empty and reassemble. Any ideas what is wrong?

Maybe check forcing cone and or face of cylinder for excessive fouling or lead build up

 

[homers]

can cock hammer and dry fire or use caps with no problem. Happens with any ammo, after a shot or two I'm unable to cock the hammer even to the half position.

 

[Kp321]

Guess I need to expand my answer some. When it locks up, see if there is any daylight between the barrel and cylinder. It might be a tight enough fit that any buildup is causing it to hang up or the cylinder is growing with heat and binding. On the back end, see if any primers are backed out and rubbing on the recoil shield or cratered.
Factory loads or reloads? If reloads, the bullets might be backing out from a too light crimp.
Make some close observations next time it happens and report back.

 

[mjsdwash]

I had a similar problem with a nickel plated model, where the nickel closed up the gap, and things started acting up. Can you get a feeler gauge? I dont remember exactly, But I think .003 or so is needed between the barrel cone, and cylinder.

 

[homers]

I can dry fire all day with no problem with snap caps, so I don't think it build up of any kind. Factory ammo, handloads, same result.

 

[BBBBill]

1 - Inadequate end shake. I know that is uncommon and few folks consider the possibility of too little as there is usually too much, but it does happen on rare occasions. Sometimes due to inadequate fitting and occasionally due to build up in the cylinder center hole keeping the bushing from seating properly.
2 - The face of the cylinder is often not square to the axis, causing run-out of the face as you turn. Very possible that one side of the face is touching the rear of the barrel as it heats up/expands from firing.
3 - The cylinder base pin may be a little loose allowing some wobble. That won't usually play into binding, but it could under some circumstances.
4 - Rear face of barrel may not be square, leaving a high spot that can grab the cylinder as it expands from firing.
5 - Combination of the above.
The easiest to fix is end shake. Clean the cylinder bore really well, check the bushing for full seating, and adjust the fit as necessary to get the minimum amount of end shake to accommodate heat expansion without binding. Next is the base pin. Belt Mountain sells oversized ones that work really well and are a great upgrade. Brownells sells a kit to recut forcing cones and one of the cutters faces the barrel. A lot of money for one gun, but you might be able to rent it from 4D Reamer Rentals or one of the other tool rental houses. The cylinder is a little tougher to do. You need a lathe (or mill) and the appropriate fixturing to indicate and face the cylinder to remove any high spots.

 

[homers]

clean everything really well. Still don't think that's the cause as it functions fine with snap caps. I'll give an update next time I shoot it.

 

[Clark]

One of my Uberti Cattleman revolvers drags the bolt on the cylinder when on the first notch.
I am either going to have to weld and machine on the hammer or get a new hammer.

 

[4v50 Gary]

Barrel cylinder gap. .003 is rather tight and I'd be more comfortable with more gap. Use a feeler gage. Even if the gap is good, I wonder if the cylinder is rebated enough?

 

[RecoilRob]

Is this using Cowboy Action level ammo? If so...they might be too light to prevent the primers backing out and tying up the rotation. If these ARE CA light type ammo, try some normal full power stuff and see how it runs. At least that might help you diagnose what's going on but doesn't help if you need to run CA level ammo through the gun. I'd imagine that there are people out there who see problems like this regularly and know how to work around it.

 

[delrom418]

I had the same problem once. The firing pin hole was cratered in the recoil shield. The fired primers would back out into the "crater" and prevent the hammer from cocking.

 

[sonora]

I was wondering if it may be caused by the base pin moving rearward from the recoil of standard loads. The pin could be moving rearward and making contact with the hammer?

 

[icanthitabarn]

My pin was going forward after jumping the locking notch firing moderate magnums. This happened like three times and I was satisfied that it was seated. It moved a lot and by a lot I mean almost all the way. Something to watch for but not pertinent, so sorry for highjack.