Taylor's R&D cylinder fitting NMA

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Ifishsum

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Just received a Taylor's .45colt conversion cylinder for my Pietta NMA but its obvious that something (the hand at least?) needs adjustment. Cocking the hammer rotates the cylinder clockwise to lockup as it should, but when the trigger is pulled the bolt drops and the cylinder rotates back counter-clockwise and out of alignment with the barrel as the hammer comes down. It's apparent that the hand dragging the conversion cylinder backwards as the hammer drops, and I feel like I could probably work on that aspect just fine - but I cannot see how the cylinder bolt is dropping when the trigger is pulled to even allow the backward rotation to happen.

The bolt does not drop with the original C&B cylinder until the hammer is pulled back and with no cylinder in the gun I also cannot replicate the bolt dropping upon pulling the trigger. Even trying to press the bolt down while pushing backwards on the hand it stays up, until the R&D cylinder is installed. I've done some action tuning on my Colt repro but this NMA was my first C&B and has worked just fine as it came so I've never tinkered with it. That's obviously going to change but could use some help on where to start, thanks!
 
I think I got it figured out. The bolt notches on the conversion are apparently a tiny bit shallower than the original cylinder, and the spring leg of the bolt wasn't quite slipping off the cam on the hammer at full cock. Shortened the leg just a smidge and smoothed the ramp on the cam, timing is good and the bolt stays locked through the trigger drop. Thanks for looking
 
Howdy

I had a different problem with one of my Remmies and the Taylors 45 Colt Conversion Cylinder.

The little firing pins on the rear of each chamber stood a little bit prouder of the cylinder than the nipples of the C&B cylinder.

That was preventing the hammer from falling quite far enough for the bolt leg to pop off the cam to reset.

My solution was to carefully file a teeny bit of metal off the top edge of the cam, so the bolt leg would pop off a little bit earlier.

You have to be careful if you file the hand down. You might file enough off that it will no longer rotate the original C&B cylinder quite far enough.
 
Yeah I didn't end up doing anything to the hand except clean up the surfaces a little...the concave (front) side had casting ridges all the way to the tip so I just went deep enough to smooth those out without shortening it. Still rotates the original cylinder to lock up, in fact the way it had a bit of rollover on the edge tells me the hand still may be a shade too long anyway (I only took off the burr). We'll take another look at the wear pattern after a few dozen rounds on the conversion cylinder. I forgot how satisfying it was to tweak on these things and have it work out the way I intended :)
 
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