Shotgun Loading Resources

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lpsharp88

lpsharp88

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Been loading pistol and rifle for a few years, but may be getting into shot shell loading next. My uncle is gifting me what appears to be everything I’ll need to get going
MEC 650, 3 charge bars, 6 powder bushings, MEC resizer, 30lb of # 7 1/2 shot, 25 pound of #5 shot, 200 1 oz wads, 400 1 1/8 oz wads, 1000 209 primers, a few bags of hulls, some shell boxes, and 2-3 pounds of Red Dot

What’s a good book or two I could pick up for load data and how to? I’ve got plenty for pistol/rifle, none for shot shell. Any good YouTube to check out as well? Any general tips or advice? Shot shell was nothing that had ever crossed my mind since I don’t shoot a lot of that, but if I’m gonna get to skip the initial investment, I don’t see why I shouldn’t give it a go.

Any and all input is welcome, I’ve got PLENTY to learn

Now to think of something to get him as a thank you...
 
Lymans' 5th is due for an update, but it's probably the best overall starter book.

Check out the forum at shotgunworld.com, too. Mostly focused on target games, but there's a good cross section of very knowledgeable people on the reloader's forum that will help you get started off right. In particular, they'll clue you in in how to adjust that Mec to get good crimps.
 
The powder maker websites have load data. You do not say what brand of hulls (or type) - unlike metallic, you are not mixing a lot of hulls
 
JO JO said:
Lyman Shotshell Handbook 5Th Edition
Is what I started with
Click to expand...
That was the first manual I looked at. I have their 49th edition for metallic and it’s good. Figured the shotshell would be on par

cfullgraf said:
The powder companies, at least Hodgdon and Alliant, have good reloading shotshell data at their on-line sites.
Click to expand...
Already checked out both, and Alliant had quite a bit

George P said:
The powder maker websites have load data. You do not say what brand of hulls (or type) - unlike metallic, you are not mixing a lot of hulls
Click to expand...
I didn’t know you couldn’t “mix headstamps” that’s good info. I’m unsure of what hulls I’ll get, was just mentioned that there’s 4 plastic bags full
 
What the Lyman book has that the web sites don't is pictures of the hulls.

Shotshell is completely different than metallic reloading. You need to follow their recipe EXACTLY. No substitutions or variations.
 
Shotgun loads are specific to the hull- A load that's fine in one hull will make your shotgun do what Elmer Fudd's does when Bugs Bunny sticks his finger in the muzzle with another hull. Stick to the recipes for that specific hull, and don't substitute components.
 
lpsharp88 said:
That was the first manual I looked at. I have their 49th edition for metallic and it’s good. Figured the shotshell would be on par


Already checked out both, and Alliant had quite a bit


I didn’t know you couldn’t “mix headstamps” that’s good info. I’m unsure of what hulls I’ll get, was just mentioned that there’s 4 plastic bags full
Click to expand...
There are two basic types of hulls: tapered (Winchester AA and all Remington) and straight-walled (All Euro and cheap Winchester). While you technically can use Win AA and Rem STS interchangeably from a load standpoint, the issue is the hulls are slightly different in lengths - just enough to make crimps a PITA when you do mix them.
 
I have been reloading cartridges for over 30 years, but was surprised when I got my Lyman manual and began researching shot shell reloading. The Lyman manual is loaded with "how to" info and good descriptions of components (important when component specific loads are used). As far as I can tell, at least for a beginner, most shot shell loads are very component specific; a specific hull is loaded with a specific powder charge (no min/max) with a specific wad column, with a specific shot size/charge. Many loads even specify type of crimp. OK, I guess, at least 'till I get a handle on it. Prices of shot really surprised me. Not available around my small town and ordering on line is ridiculous. So, I started casting slugs... :cool:
 
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Since you are this mew, I will not tell you what thins can be interchanged - there are some. One that doesn't make a difference is substituting either Claybuster brand or Downrange brand for the OEM wads They make exact clones and are typically half the cost of the OEM wads from Winchester or Remington. Savings in reloading shotgun comes from buying components in bulk and reloading subgauges like 28 and 410, along with loading 12 and 20 gauge loads not commercially available. I reload 3/4oz for both 12 and 20 - that meant I could stop reloading 28 gauge; it means I get 533 loads form a bag of shot, and they work great for practice as well as on birds like quail. My costs are right about $3.50/box
 
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