Spring Weight for GI load-1911/45 ACP

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I load a 200 grain LSWC (650-700 fps) for my 1911 (Gov. Model) paired with a 15 lb spring.
What spring weight do I need for the standard GI load of 230 Grain FMJ at 800 fps?
If the spring is too light for the load will it damage the pistol?
 
I see people running springs from 14# up to 18# or slightly more with 16# being the factory standard for a full length slide. When I was doing a lot of 1911 shooting I tried to use a spring that put ejected cases somewhere around 3 to 5 feet behind me, give or take. You don't want them flying 20 feet behind you (too light) and you don't want them barely dribbling out the ejection port (too heavy). As to whether too light could damage the gun, my thought is that slide acceleration would probably be higher than ideal with a lighter spring and I wouldn't want to fire a lot of ammo that was too much recoil impulse for the installed spring.
 
16 lb recoil spring and 23lb mainspring. Although I tend to run a 16lb recoil spring with an 18.5 lb mainspring
I wasn't aware of a mainspring change was also relevant. My 1911 is a US Army issue Gov Model and I have no idea what the weight the mainspring is or how to determine it. Any additional advice will be most appreciated. Thank you
 
14-16lbs for a 5" .45acp with hardball. I remember that when I went to a Colt armorers school many years ago they stated that they where 16lbs. If memory serves correct I thought JMB spec'd a 14lb spring. I don't see a reason for the 18.5lbs spring on a 5" .45acp. 1911Tuner posts I'm sure can shed more light on this.
 
Mainspring has large effect on retarding the slides rearward travel. Try manipulating the slide with the hammer cocked and then without the hammer cocked. The difference in effort is due to the mainspring. I don't think there's any easy way to measure the strength of the mainspring. New springs are cheap and the recoil spring is easy to replace. The mainspring is easy to replace if you know what you're doing and have the right tools.

What's the history of the gun? I think you're supposed to change out springs every 5,000 rounds, but I'm not sure how quickly anything negative happens if that schedule isn't followed.

Going too heavy on the mainspring will result in heavier than necessary trigger pull. I use 19 lbs unless I'm going to be shooting +P ammo in the gun.
 
Look up @1911Tuner and read his excellent posts on springs and recoil in the 1911.

Condensed: 16lb recoil spring & 23lb mainspring are the system for full sized 1911s. Changing either will upset the system balance and may induce feeding/ejection problems.

***If you desire more recoil control, look into using a flat bottom firing pin stop with the above springs.***

Extremely light loads may benefit from lighter springs. Just remember the recoil spring must properly balance with the mainspring.

The 16-23 combo works really well for just about all commonly used loads (from light to full power).
 
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I wasn't aware of a mainspring change was also relevant. My 1911 is a US Army issue Gov Model and I have no idea what the weight the mainspring is or how to determine it. Any additional advice will be most appreciated. Thank you
14-16lbs for a 5" .45acp with hardball. I remember that when I went to a Colt armorers school many years ago they stated that they where 16lbs. If memory serves correct I thought JMB spec'd a 14lb spring. I don't see a reason for the 18.5lbs spring on a 5" .45acp. 1911Tuner posts I'm sure can shed more light on this.
The original M1911 specifications are:

The Recoil Spring is specified to develop a load of 8.00 +/- .5 lbs at a compressed length of 3.72 inches, a load of 13.55 +/- .6 lbs at a compressed length of 1.81 inches, and have a spring rate of 2.88 lb/in (REF). Free length should be 6.55 inches with 30 coils.

The Main Spring is specified to develop a load of 22.0 +/- 2.0 lbs at a compressed length of 1.312 inches, a load of 29.5 +/- 2.0 lbs at a compressed length of 1.062 inches, and have a spring rate of 27.69 lb/in (REF). Free length should be 2.156 inches with 21.5 coils.

I have no idea where the referenced 16 and 23 weights come from within the specifications.
 
I’ll be the minority with a 16 Lb recoil spring cut to 30 coils in conjunction with a 17 lb mainspring.
I haven’t noticed any reduction in accuracy from light strikes and my spent cartridges drop just over my right shoulder without any cycling problems.
Seems to shoot well
 
Mainspring has large effect on retarding the slides rearward travel. Try manipulating the slide with the hammer cocked and then without the hammer cocked. The difference in effort is due to the mainspring. I don't think there's any easy way to measure the strength of the mainspring. New springs are cheap and the recoil spring is easy to replace. The mainspring is easy to replace if you know what you're doing and have the right tools.

What's the history of the gun? I think you're supposed to change out springs every 5,000 rounds, but I'm not sure how quickly anything negative happens if that schedule isn't followed.

Going too heavy on the mainspring will result in heavier than necessary trigger pull. I use 19 lbs unless I'm going to be shooting +P ammo in the gun.
I've had this gun for over 40 years. It was well used when I purchased it. At first I shot it with factory ammo, then purchased reloads and finally with my own reloads. The recoil spring was originally quite stiff & I had to change it to 15 lbs when I started shooting lighter target loads.

I haven't shot anywhere near 5,000 rounds with the new recoil spring (and it's possible that I haven't shot 5,000 rounds through it since I bought it but I might be close). The mainspring is the original or at least the same one it had when I bought it. How can I determine if the mainspring is worn? The pistol has an excellent trigger pull & functions perfectly with the target loads I normally shoot.
I wanted to start shooting a hotter load that is more suitable for self defense with this pistol because I have another target grade 1911 that I normally use for that purpose.
 
I load a 200 grain LSWC (650-700 fps) for my 1911 (Gov. Model) paired with a 15 lb spring.
What spring weight do I need for the standard GI load of 230 Grain FMJ at 800 fps?
If the spring is too light for the load will it damage the pistol?

There is no doubt in my mind that you are lucky your pistol functions with a 15 lb recoil spring for the Bullseye loads you are using. My Les Baer Wadcutter comes with a 12 lb recoil spring and given the very light loads I push through thing, which are 200 LSWC's at 740 fps (50 yard load) my pistol functions each time.

ONNBm2x.jpg

I have seen sluggish behavior during 50 degree weather, maybe 40 degree weather, and I have no desire to use a weaker recoil spring. I want ammunition that functions on the low end, and I want recoil springs that will close the breech regardless of temperature.

I did look up some of @1911Tuner 's posts, and his expertise on 1911's is vast. I found this interesting:

1911 recoil springs

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/1911-recoil-springs.745465/

Interesting that you'd reference a 10-pound "wadcutter" spring.

There are a good many IDPA/USPSA shooters who run through upwards of 50,000 rounds or more of Major Power ammo a year on 10 or 12-pound springs without problems...and some of'em change the springs about once a year at that.

Truth told, the slide just doesn't hit the frame all that hard. The gun can be fired without a spring and nothing bad will happen. I proved it once to a doubting Thomas by firing a LW Commander over a hundred times with hardball and even a little +P without a spring. He was ready to bet serious money that the frame would be literally destroyed within 50 rounds. The frame was fine. The gun didn't blow up and there were no "Early Unlocking" issues. Nothing at all changed other than having to put the slide into battery manually. He was mystified...then he became almost hostile. Accused me of setting up the gun in some super special way so that it'd do that, even though I broke it down every 50 rounds to let him examine the impact abutment. I was prepared to burn up all of his ammo, but he stomped off.

And I've used the same Commander for that same demonstration several times. I'd estimate the total round count without a spring at around 500.

another thread:

The 18.5 lb spring is the standard weight spring for a standard 5" 1911 in 45 auto.

No. No, it's not. Not even close.

The original wasn't specified in pounds. The original print specs call for 32.75 turns of .043 diameter music wire...which, when compared to Wolff's 32-turn springs, works out to about 14.5 pounds at full compression and 13.6 pounds installed at full slide travel.

I am going to say that my experience is different in that I had a Colt Combat Elite peen the frame. I installed shock buffs and that reduced the rate of peening, the thing would eat up a shock buff within 300 rounds, and eventually I sent the thing back to Colt. They replaced the frame under warranty, which was around five years at the time, and the new frame did not add an additional five years to the warranty. And, worst of all, Colt did not fix the frame peening problem. It has something to do with the timing at unlock. Something in the geometry of the link, barrel, slide is off and the pistol obvious unlocks early in the pressure curve leading to excessive slide velocity. Maybe I should have sold the thing off at that point, but I decided to send it to real 1911 experts, Wilson Combat, and had them install a new barrel, new hammer, trigger job, front and rear sights, beavertail, slide to frame tightening, etc, etc. I added the short trigger later. I have stubby fingers. I will never get my money out of this pistol, but the expert smiths at Wilson Combat fixed the heavy recoiling issue.


Kh44mJG.jpg

Frame peening did make an impression on me, and claims that taking the recoil spring out won't cause frame damage is not supported in my experience. If you read design books you find that the spring has an almost inconsequential affect on slide recoil velocity compared to cartridge pressure and the inertia of the slide, but, it does have an affect. And I don't want any frame peening at all, because I have experienced a damaged frame. Therefore, I don't want the slide hitting the frame hard. Unfortunately adding stronger springs is not a good fix for what is a geometry problem.

This 1911 recoiled hard, ate up shock buffs, ejected cases twenty plus feet, and tossed cases in my face!. It ate up a shock buff each shooting session.

bYTfb5t.jpg

I kept installing heavier and heavier springs, finally using a 24 pound mainspring, and that more or less tamed the beast. It at least would eject a case into my net. I have to say, feed was absolutely positive. It still ate up shock buffs but at a lessened rate. But, the slide was hard to rack. I had to really, really, get a good grip to rack the slide. I sent the thing back to RIA and they "did something". I also complained that the thing was inaccurate, and they sure showed me!

wLLy0k1.jpg

I took out the factory spring, was is a 16 lb spring, and installed an 18 or 22 lb spring. My logic is, I am only going to shoot ball through this thing, and after unlock, the only energy source available to feed, chamber, and lock the breech is the recoil spring. So I want as much spring power as commensurate with 100% function, with the ammunition I am using. I also notice that the shock buffs are now barely bashed, which is all to the good. I don't want the slide hitting the recoil plug. I cannot see how that would be good at all. If the slide rebounds off the recoil plug than that is a hard stop and whatever impact shock is created will be transmitted throughout the pistol. I don't want to find out what loosens up due to thousands of impact shocks.

I think each 1911 is an individual and you have to tune your loads to the springs, and while there are "standard" springs, the best spring choice is based on the ammunition, 100% function, and slide velocity that does not peen the frame. If it goes bang each and every time, without self destructing, what more can you want?
 
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