1911 Recoil Spring Question

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azhunter122

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I have a Kimber Pro Carry (commander sized) and I read that it comes with a 22 LB recoil spring. I am approaching 650 rounds of 230 GR hardball so I don't think that I need a new spring yet but I was wandering what recoil spring weight would be appropriate when I do replace it and also since it is running on a bushingless barrel and needs a takedown tool will I need to use a spring that is specifically designed for my gun? Thanks!

Also is there anything else that I need to do to my 1911 to keep it running in good shape?
 
I think many of us are wondering why you'd want to change differently? You've fired some 13 boxes of "hardball", your pistol seems reliable and evidently you are maintaining your weapon in excellent fashion. If you start to use lighter ammo, perhaps you might reduce your recoil tension if it doesn't perform well. You have a real-good pistol....:)
 
I don't want to hijack but this goes along with the op. My kimber UCII has about 850 rounds through it. mostly 230 hardball, but also 185gr golden sabers(carry rounds) I shoot my carry rounds that are in the gun at all times when I go to the range to ensure function. Next I shoot the target rounds. So regarding the recoil spring, When I change it, do I have to go to the range to ensure function. It is completely reliable and I'm afraid that if I change the spring that it might not be perfect. at least without another break in period. If that doesn't make sense I can try to explain better.
 
With only 650 rounds you are a long way from needing a new recoil spring. Twenty-two pounds seems like a lot, as the standard Commander weight is 18.5 lbs. However, with a bushingless barrel, FLGR and different (one-quarter-inch shorter) length of slide, this gun differs from a standard Commander. When it is finally time to replace the spring, I would use one just like the one that came out of it. :)
 
1911 Spring

Try this.
Wolff 32725 Recoil spring (extra power)
Order it from Brownells Stock # 969-000-137
You get the recoil spring and a firing pin spring also.
Put them in my Kimber Stainless Pro Carry II and it runs great.
 
ISMI makes a replacement guide rod and bushing that allows the use of one of their flat wire springs. This is what I use in my Kimber CDP. IMHO it is a much better arrangement than the over-stressed spring the factory uses.
 
Kimber CDP

Are you referring to the Kimber CDP Pro or Ultra.
I might just have to order some of those springs for my Pro Carry II.
 
I checked out the site. I could not find the replacement guide rod and bushing. Then again I get lost in the bathtub.
 
I hated changing the spring on my 4" kimber. Not easy pushing the plug down to get the take-down tool in.

I change mine about 500 rounds or so. It would run much longer, with a good grip, but it would choke if I shot it weak hand (limp wrist). I rarely shoot it now, its been replaced with a 5" kimber for EDC.

I replaced my FLGR with one I had cut down to standard length. It pokes out of plug when its at slide lock, but tear down and spring changes are much easier. Insert plug, insert spring, insert guide rod. No more "take down tools" or bent paperclips (which sheared once, and sent my spring plug through a window).

I use officer's model full-diameter 22lb springs from wolf.

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I think you have to call ISMI and talk to Marc to get the guide rod and spring.
 
Kimber designed the 4" gun to operate with the 22# rated officers spring, but since it only compresses it to .940" not .700" it's the equivalent of an 18# or so recoil spring. The down side to this spring is the weight at battery is low, and the Commander spring is too long, so Wolff has wound a special spring especially for the Kimber 4" guns and is called the Kimber XP recoil spring with no weight designation as it gets confusing when the stock one is said to be a 22# and an XP recoil spring is a 20#? so no designation, but it works in these guns great and adds about 2# at battery. LOL take down is just too easy, insert the take down wire with the slide locked back and the rest is a cake walk what ever that means, LOL. Disassembling the guide rod is also easy by drilling a 1/2" hole in the handle of your bushing wrench and that will fit over the reverse plug and register on the collar and provides you with all the control you will need to change the spring. LOL

http://www.gunsprings.com/SemiAuto/KimberNF.html#Kimber4

LOG
 
Also is there anything else that I need to do to my 1911 to keep it running in good shape?

according to most "experts"


Recoil spring replacement...2500 rounds
Firing pin spring replacement...5,000 rounds
Sear spring replacement...10,000 rounds
Mainspring replacement...20,000 rounds
Plunger spring replacement...If/When needed
Firing pin...as needed, indicated by wear or damage.
Plunger detent pins...as needed, indicated by wear or damage.
 
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