Is this good enough to trust?

If you have to ask the answer is no

If you're not betting your life on it,shoot it until it breaks again then get a new rivet and do it right. Learn as you go. In sixty years of shooting 870 and 1100 shotguns, one close to 200,000 times, I've yet to replace an ejector. Wore out a couple extractor books though.

In general the tail of a rivet/brad at its most efficient strength runs 1.5 x shank dia in width and 1 x shank dia in height with 1/2 shank dia in height acceptable as long as it is satisfactory to stress needs.

To quote my Ol' Man, or rather ME after hearing him for years and finally asking him:

"Nothing is EVER *good enough* for you, is it?"

He says - "If you understood the question you just asked - you wouldn't have had to ask it!.... Would ya?"

Or simply put - see post #2 again.


Todd.

If there does not appear to be sufficient material remaining to trust the re-peened rivet, you can grind the rivet down until it is flush with the ejector spring and then drill and tap the rivet for a small flat head machine screw, and don't forget the blue Loctite. I converted several 2-3/4" Wingmasters to 3" without having to refinish the receivers by this method, and others by re-riveting the attachment. As far as I know all are still in service. The main load is on the body of the rivet when functioning.

Taylor Jarrell said:

Any tips on changing the whole rivet and making it match an antique wingmaster? I don't have a single gunsmith anywhere nearby so I'd prefer to learn to do it myself for the experience rather than mail it away to be repaired.
I also already have the punch set and drill bit.

Edit: it's also not my home defence gun it's more of my favorite pest control shotgun. Actually took a coyote 3 days ago with it after I came back from the range test. So all in all it was tested with around 20 3" highbrass buckshot shells. With no failures to eject. As well as a single hevi shot shell on the coyote.

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If you have no one nearby, send it out

Even looking in my Muramatsu manual wasn't very helpful. The manuals that help gunsmiths be gunsmiths says go to a gunsmith. Gee thanks.

The ejector and its housing are attached to the
inside left wall of the receiver by two riveted
pins, through to the outside, and this assembly
should not be disturbed unless necessary for
repair. If replacement is necessary, this is a job
for a competent gunsmith, or the factory.

I recommend you get a rivet staking tool to get inside the receiver.
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...-kit-sku080612001-653-2796.aspx?sku=080612001

Numrich has the rivets in stock. So I would just carefully drill out the rivet and replace it with a new one. Maybe buy an extra ejector in case you slip with the drill and damage the ejector in the process. Items 17, 18, and 19 in case you need both rivets and a new ejector.

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/remington/shotguns-rem/870/parts-list-rem-870

I did find a repair post of someone who repaired theirs. Unfortunately the videos don't work but you might be able to get the idea or find another guide.
https://www.edcforums.com/threads/remington-870-ejector-replacement.99317/

If you want to go to the time and expense of refinishing the receiver, have at it. I am a retired gunsmith.

Virginian said:

If you want to go to the time and expense of refinishing the receiver, have at it. I am a retired gunsmith.

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I’ve never corresponded with Virginian as far as I can remember but I have been reading his posts for the better part of a decade on Shotgun World. In matters such as the topic of this thread I’d take his advice.

Ahlman's in Morristown, MN. Top quality service at decent prices.

https://ahlmans.com/gunsmithing.html

Fix it right. Nothing worse than having a empty shell blocking the loaded one when you really need it.