gun cleaning question(s)

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buddyd157

buddyd157

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ok, so i have read the other thread on how gun cleaning chemicals and lubes are gimmicks..

but now, i have my own question(s) regarding cleaning

i clean my guns once a week. it does not matter, whether i go once or twice a week to shoot them, they get cleaned once a week.

ok, so i spray the inside of the barrel with Hoppe's cleaner, then let it sit.

then i clean everything else.

then i push thru the brush a few times.

now, when i go to push thru the cloths into the barrel, they come out dirty, then eventually come out clean....

now, what i do at each cleaning is, run a clean cloth, with a tiny bit of oil (just in case i do not shoot that gun, the following week)

and that darned cloth, comes out DIRTY....??

like WTH...all the previous cloths came out clean, and now this one comes out dirty..??

what's up with that??

(using 124 gr. S & B 9 MM FMJ round head, non-hollow points, and non-NATO rds.)

is the oil, picking up crud in the rifling..???

that's about the only thing this newcomer can think of.

thanks in advance
 
The "oil" youre using may be catching something the Hoppes isn't. Or maybe the hoppes had a little more time to cut through more fouling etc. with the time it took you to get the oil out and push through.

If you're cleaning every week whether you shoot or not you may be overthinking it. I'd say they're plenty clean for proper function if you're doing it that frequently, and its likely not necessary to do it that often unless you're shooting hundreds of rounds a week.
 
If you enjoy cleaning your guns then by all means keep up your regimen. I do to think they need to be cleaned that often. Of course cleaning follows use or can be done periodically for maintenance. Why your patch comes out "dirty" with the oil application I do not know.
 
IMO cleaning a gun too much can cause just as much harm as not cleaning at all. That applies to improper cleaning specifically.

I'm not saying you are improperly cleaning so don't think that I am. BUT I do think you are cleaning your pistol way more than necessary BUT if you are doing it properly and you enjoy cleaning...then clean away.
 
Hokkmike said:
If you enjoy cleaning your guns then by all means keep up your regimen. I do to think they need to be cleaned that often. Of course cleaning follows use or can be done periodically for maintenance. Why your patch comes out "dirty" with the oil application I do not know.
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CarJunkieLS1 said:
IMO cleaning a gun too much can cause just as much harm as not cleaning at all. That applies to improper cleaning specifically.

I'm not saying you are improperly cleaning so don't think that I am. BUT I do think you are cleaning your pistol way more than necessary BUT if you are doing it properly and you enjoy cleaning...then clean away.
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yeah thanks guys.

yes, i have read a lot of posts regarding cleaning, and also watched quite a few videos as well.

the "debate" over how often, or how little cleaning goes on.

and i can most certainly appreciate everyone's point of view.

here i am, not necessarily home bound, but not going out much, except for the usual items for the wife and me, then once or twice a week, to the range.

back in my mechanic years, i always wiped down all my tools before putting them away. i wash my cars, even in the dead of winter (as long as the temps are mild) to rid of damaging salts.

i kept my big rig clean weekly as well.

maybe i'm OCD, who knows, but i like keeping habits (good ones), and i like clean at all times, which made it tough for me being a mechanic..lol

so being home i figure that keeping the guns clean weekly, and a light coat of oil in the barrel just to prevent any rusting(??) if it's not going to be used for a while, like right now, it's been 2 weeks since i used my CZ, but the barrel is lightly oiled.

too much thought?? over thinking..??

maybe, but that residue crud on a clean cloth had me wondering why it is there.
 
SlowFuse said:
The "oil" youre using may be catching something the Hoppes isn't. Or maybe the hoppes had a little more time to cut through more fouling etc. with the time it took you to get the oil out and push through.

If you're cleaning every week whether you shoot or not you may be overthinking it. I'd say they're plenty clean for proper function if you're doing it that frequently, and its likely not necessary to do it that often unless you're shooting hundreds of rounds a week.
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that's what i was thinking as i was typing up my thread. i "had a thought" that the lightly oiled patch, is picking up some crud from the rifling, cuz as i insert that oiled patch?

i twist it round and round all the way through, where as all the other patches, just get pushed straight on thru.
 
SlowFuse said:
Or maybe the hoppes had a little more time to cut through more fouling etc. with the time it took you to get the oil out and push through.
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I believe this is true.
buddyd157 said:
is the oil, picking up crud in the rifling..???
Click to expand...
As well as this.

I use Hoppe’s #9 to clean and then Hoppe’s oil to lube. I have the same experience. To make sure the chemicals are given adequate time to work the first thing I do is run a wet patch through the barrel, and then let it sit while I work on the frame.

Then when the drake is cleaned up I run a few dry patches through, then a bore snake, and then re-wet the barrel. Clean up the slide and then run dry patches through the barrel. Then I oil the barrel.

The gun gets oiled and the rails get greased, and when everything is done, I run dry patches through the barrel to remove oil and last bits of crud. Then reassemble and wipe hand prints off.

It’s normal. Once a gun has been shot, it’s never truly clean again in my opinion. That’s fine if it functions and shoots straight. Don’t over think it or worry about it.

Once a year or so I use copper solvent in my guns too if I see residue building up, though I’ve never had an accuracy problem.
 
460Shooter said:
I believe this is true.

As well as this.

I use Hoppe’s #9 to clean and then Hoppe’s oil to lube. I have the same experience. To make sure the chemicals are given adequate time to work the first thing I do is run a wet patch through the barrel, and then let it sit while I work on the frame.

Then when the drake is cleaned up I run a few dry patches through, then a bore snake, and then re-wet the barrel. Clean up the slide and then run dry patches through the barrel. Then I oil the barrel.

The gun gets oiled and the rails get greased, and when everything is done, I run dry patches through the barrel to remove oil and last bits of crud. Then reassemble and wipe hand prints off.

It’s normal. Once a gun has been shot, it’s never truly clean again in my opinion. That’s fine if it functions and shoots straight. Don’t over think it or worry about it.

Once a year or so I use copper solvent in my guns too if I see residue building up, though I’ve never had an accuracy problem.
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yeah, i have a mini spray bottle, and spray the Hoppe's 9 into it, and set it aside. i do not have a bore snake. are those washable, after x number of uses?
 
buddyd157 said:
yeah, i have a mini spray bottle, and spray the Hoppe's 9 into it, and set it aside. i do not have a bore snake. are those washable, after x number of uses?
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Yep. I throw mine in an old sock, tie the sock up and throw it in the laundry machine once a year. They do a pretty good job, but do not replace a good brush and patches. Rather they can be used in conjunction.

They really are useful on rifles.
 
If the barrel has seen a lot of use, I start with brushing in the Janitor's ammonia, cut about 3:1 with water. Then a couple patches, followed by brushing with brown vinegar and a couple patches. Then some vigorous scrubbing with Dawn and water, at about 5-6:1. Then patch. If it's still dirty, I send some Hoppes down the tube. Followed by patches, and then my favorite oil of the day.

Less dirty barrels get a far lighter treatment.
 
I do solvent patch - pretty wet at least a couple times until they don't come out completely dark, once they start to lighten up then immediately dry patches to get the bulk of the remaining fouling out. Then I do solvent and brush quick, then dry patches. Then I do the solvent and let sit for a while, then brush and dry patch. As long as the patches at this point come out very light I'm done and then oil the barrel. I've tried to continue until the patches after a little solvent come out white, but it never happens. So, as long as they come out with just that light tint of dark color, and no blue or green, dry patches until white, then oil, and completed. Process takes about 10 or 15 minutes start to finish.
 
Generally, if I go target shooting, I will clean the guns I took. After a day afield, give it a thorough wipe down, but not a barrel scrub if I didn't shoot it. If hunting sloppy weather, at the end of the day.
My CCW will get a thorough take down and clean/ lube weekly. Amazing the lint. dust, etc. they seem to pick up.
 
buddyd157 said:
yeah, i have a mini spray bottle, and spray the Hoppe's 9 into it, and set it aside. i do not have a bore snake. are those washable, after x number of uses?
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I disagree with using a washing machine and then having those oils, solvents, etc. get in the machine. A plastic milk jug or bucket with hot water and Dawn; shake or vigorously swirl, rinse, repeat if needed and then hang to dry
 
Daveboone said:
My CCW will get a thorough take down and clean/ lube weekly. Amazing the lint. dust, etc. they seem to pick up.
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since i do not carry ( along process to obtain in my state) my question to you and anyone else is, "does static electricity have anything to do with the lint/dust the gun picks up?"
 
CarJunkieLS1 said:
IMO cleaning a gun too much can cause just as much harm as not cleaning at all. That applies to improper cleaning specifically.

I'm not saying you are improperly cleaning so don't think that I am. BUT I do think you are cleaning your pistol way more than necessary BUT if you are doing it properly and you enjoy cleaning...then clean away.
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^^^This IMO...
Kind of off topic, but along with this extra cleaning, if you DO chamber a 9MM in your barrel after that often of a clean, be SURE to watch for bullet Set-Back of your 9MM defense loads...You may?? want to rotate the top rounds to the bottom of the magazine??
Bullet Set-Back, especially in 9MM & .40 S&W can drive your pressures SKY HIGH...JUST Saying...Bill.
 
-- A slightly discolored patch at the end isn't unusual. As someone here mentioned, Product B is just picking up something Product A did not, or its picking up the residue of Product A. As long as the last patch is a dampened oil or CLP type patch or even a dry one, I wouldn't sweat it at all.
-- Guns I've been shooting and/or carrying afield get thoroughly cleaned more or less as described here and put up in the safe or returned to the holster.
-- A gun I've been carrying but have not shot gets a patch (dry or just slightly dampened with a CLP) down the pipe, a quick touch up of the slide rails and re-assemble & wipe down about two or three times a month. A complete scrub isn't required, IMO.
-- Bore snakes are washable, whether you like a machine, a sink or a milk jug ... up to you. Give 'em a goodly amount of time to dry. I prefer Otis' "Rip Cord" more for handguns, btw. I think they do a little better job and they're tougher. Also washable by hand, btw.
-- Indeed regarding bullet setback. If it's been in the pipe 2 or 3 times, I just flip it into a container to expend it at the next range outing and put into the mag a fresh replacement round. Similarly, I expend my carry mags every now and then. Rotation of defensive ammo is a good thing.
These are JMO, and I don't pretend they're worth more than I charged for 'em.
 
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When I am really trying to get all of the fouling out of a barrel, I alternate cleaning products. Usually I switch back and forth between a foaming bore cleaner which will remove jacket fouling and that is allowed to set in the bore for a few minutes, with some kind of nitro-solvent/CLP product which is used in conjunction with a bronze brush. This process will generally get a barrel pretty close to completely clean after a few cycles. But it will surprise you how each new cycle will pull more fouling out of the bore that seemed to be clean after the last cycle.

If there is some remaining stubborn buildup after a few of those cycles, then something like RemClean (follow the instructions on the bottle) that uses a mild, non-embedding abrasive, will take the last little bit of fouling out of the bore.

HOWEVER, all that said, it's really almost never necessary to get a bore cleaned all the way back to bare metal. Especially when talking about handguns, a little fouling left in the bore isn't an issue at all since ammo isn't corrosive these days.
 
buddyd157 said:
since i do not carry ( along process to obtain in my state) my question to you and anyone else is, "does static electricity have anything to do with the lint/dust the gun picks up?"
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Gee, I guess that is a good question. I wear mainly cotton, so I don't think static is a big issue. I have certainly never noticed what would appear to be static cling with any of my firearms, though.
 
Daveboone said:
Gee, I guess that is a good question. I wear mainly cotton, so I don't think static is a big issue. I have certainly never noticed what would appear to be static cling with any of my firearms, though.
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well maybe not so much cling, as just a matter of the static electricity being an issue in low to no humidity areas. like when we walk on the carpet especially during the winter and touch something metal, or our pets, a spark can actually be seen jumping. then of course, our pets run like hell.

i dunno, as i said, i do not carry (and most likely never will), but just the movement alone of any fabric should be enough for particles to become loose and fall where they may, and attach themselves to the weapon? i'd just wonder if that can be considered as "static electricity".

maybe if the gun was wiped down with a lightly oil rag or silicon cloth, this can create that "clinging"..??
 
George P said:
I disagree with using a washing machine and then having those oils, solvents, etc. get in the machine. A plastic milk jug or bucket with hot water and Dawn; shake or vigorously swirl, rinse, repeat if needed and then hang to dry
Click to expand...
What a great tip! I'll be trying this out over the weekend.
 
buddyd157 said:
well maybe not so much cling, as just a matter of the static electricity being an issue in low to no humidity areas. like when we walk on the carpet especially during the winter and touch something metal, or our pets, a spark can actually be seen jumping. then of course, our pets run like hell.

i dunno, as i said, i do not carry (and most likely never will), but just the movement alone of any fabric should be enough for particles to become loose and fall where they may, and attach themselves to the weapon? i'd just wonder if that can be considered as "static electricity".

maybe if the gun was wiped down with a lightly oil rag or silicon cloth, this can create that "clinging"..??
Click to expand...
Certainly dust, lint etc. can stick to surface oil, etc. As a matter of fact, when I take down and clean my CCW, which is cleaned, loaded, cartridge racked into barrel and put into the holster, there is definetly accumulated dust/ lint, etc. to be found along the action lines, crevices etc.
 
Metal does not contain a static charge, it transports it to ground. That is why it sucks all of your electric surface charge when you touch it.
Plastics and fabrics can be charged electrically because they can’t transport the surface field through the material.

Or something.
I kinda stopped listening after that...:oops:

The dust and lint will stick to the Oil lubricant, not the firearm.
I like to use wax on my carry pistols. Doesn’t attach dirt or lint, stays put, is waterproof and is a lubricant at high pressure. Hornady OneShot is another dry-ish lubricant that is waterproof as well.

Rem-Oil is one that will leach through the whole pistol, and holster, and pocket, while providing only dust attaching properties and feeling completely indifferent to water...
 
Different solutions can do different things, which is why a clean patch, then a dirty one with different solution. I use KG1 carbon remover. Then when I hit it with CLP, I get more residue. If I do it in reverse order, same result. That's why I use 2 solutions.
I clean my guns any time I shoot them. If I don't shoot for weeks, I don't clean them. Which btw happened for the first time in a year and a half , since this COVID crap.
 
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